d16z6 swap

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theres one on the valve cover to the headlight supports. one on the thermostat area, one on the the transmission. If i remember correctly the battery ground runs directly onto the frame near the transmission, which ties into the transmission ground.


make sure your battery terminals are clean and have a good connection, loose terminals can also cause those same symptoms.
 
my ground off the battery just runs to the trans, do you think that may be why? and how do i wire up my obdo distributor plug in to obd1 some of the colors match either two or three dont. thanks
 
the battery should have a ground to the body and transmission, I don't have a crx to double check it on at the moment though. I specifically remember one though.

As far as the distributor plug, it depends on your conversion harness at the ECU.
I think Locash and Rywire run slightly different patters, either 2 or 4 wires switched. Best thing to do is to lookup some obd wiring walkthroughs or checkout the type of harness you have, or just pinout the distributor plugs to the ECU itself with e continuity tester.
 
ok i got a good ground the car starts to crank over, but it doesnt. i currently do not have a 02 sensor wired up. and the car does not get fuel or spark. and my dash light are staying on even when the keys are out of the ignition. its an std civic so originally i had to get a harness its from monotech. and i got a jumper harness from zurg, any help is greatly appreciated thanks guys
 
ok i got a good ground the car starts to crank over, but it doesnt. i currently do not have a 02 sensor wired up. and the car does not get fuel or spark. and my dash light are staying on even when the keys are out of the ignition. its an std civic so originally i had to get a harness its from monotech. and i got a jumper harness from zurg, any help is greatly appreciated thanks guys

wire up the o2 sensor.

the std would have been dpfi, and sometimes things can be switched up between companies with wiring. Since there are 3 places the plugs wires can be mixed, ECU, Firewall, distributor. It is really odd that your dash lights are staying on the entire time though, this points to some electrical or wiring problem.

Even though you may have bought jumper harnesses you may have to end up tracing wires to be sure things are wired properly and things are plugged in the appropriate places. Since your OBD1 you need to have the OBD1 Distributor and 4 wire o2, but I think you already have those, just making sure.

OBD1 pinout, trace some important ones to be sure things are right
https://hondaswap.com/reference-materials/ecu-pinouts-28667/
https://hondaswap.com/attachments/10d1100714226-obd1.jpg
 
see if you can get a hold of an OBD0 ecu and run an obd0 dizzy. wire it up and see if it runs. plug it in to your dpfi conversion harness.

other than that you are pretty much stuck tracing wires and relays.
 
you may have already done this, but check ALL of your fuses. under dash and engine bay.
 
i was gona see if theres a way to check the ignition switch, and if when you pull the wires from underdash and fuse box if they should go off or stay on. im kinda thinking it may be the ignition swith
 
pretty much just trace everything there by the manual.

It's unlikely that it is the problem unless it was having this issue before you swapped the motor. Only thing I can think of if some wires were crossed and messed up stuff, maybe ecu, or when you rewired the main relay for a newer style because you thought that was the problem.
 
If it was the ignition switch then it would not have turned over to begin with. Sorry about your luck man, hope you figure this out. Maybe try to borrow someone elses ECU to see if that may be the problem.
 
If it was the ignition switch then it would not have turned over to begin with. Sorry about your luck man, hope you figure this out. Maybe try to borrow someone elses ECU to see if that may be the problem.
He's probably posting on some other forum about his ignition is bad. Like when he thought it was his main relay. So he REWIRED a new style in on another thread. He said the wires are good on the ECU and jumpers. I'm wondering if he just has the headlights on which turn the dash light on, and thinking its odd when his key is out.

A DPFI-MPFI conversion + a OBD1 Jumper can have several wiring layouts.

Most common stuff swapped is on the distributor, but he still hasn't tried the key thing i suggested.
Running on OBD0 if he can get another ecu to find out if the DPFI-MPFI harness works right. I really don't believe he's checked into that. Much less trying this with those harnesses unplugged and the ECU out.

Basically hes not really checking into things and taking his own route. For not being very electrically inclined(with Hondas), he jumps to conclusions very quick on what is wrong.
 
i tried the ecu from the 1.5 that was in it and its just doing the same thing. my only light that is staying on now is my battery. its brand new tho, and the alternator test good, all grounds are good no bad fuses, there are two wire on my distributer that arent wired up, obd1 hass blue and green, blue, yellow. to obdo yellow, and black ylw. also what are the main relays that might do that.
 
i tried the ecu from the 1.5 that was in it and its just doing the same thing. my only light that is staying on now is my battery. its brand new tho, and the alternator test good, all grounds are good no bad fuses, there are two wire on my distributer that arent wired up, obd1 hass blue and green, blue, yellow. to obdo yellow, and black ylw. also what are the main relays that might do that.
check your wires to your ecu from the distributor, get that wired up CORRECTLY.

come to think of it if it is a 2 wire plug, its probably the one that supplies power to the coil pack and ground.
http://www.boomslang.us/obd0_1.pdf
last page has color coding. But it will depend on your wiring at the harness, this is why you need check it.

The battery light i think will stay on until the car is started.
 
on a forum someone said to move c1 and c2 pin to b10 and b12 do you think that could be my problem, and if i were to take it to a shop and have them look at it where would i take it? will any shop be able to do it bc its swapped from obd0 to obd1, thanks for the advice.
 
you could take it to a shop, but swapping wires is hardly worth a shops labor rate. Not to mention the towing and possible labor if its wrong.

Go to a hardware store and get a multimeter or a test light, I recommend a multimeter with a continuity test option. You'll spend $20 max on getting one and use it to trace out the wires to see if they are correct.
 
D16z6 Tranny on a 92 civic 4door

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