distrubtor for mini-me?

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you can run whatever obd1 ecu you want, you just have to run the right basemap. basically, you're running a p28 ecu basemap on your p06 ecu. a basemap is just a stock map another ecu that you can run

if you look at the vacuum lines, you'll see it's very easy and not complicated at all. there's like 4 lines that need to be ran into 1 single line, just use the stock vacuum splitters that're already hooked up on your stock lines

i didn't run dowel pins at all. i couldn't find any information about them with this setup, and i tried them in every hole and none of them lined up for both the head and the block
 
No dowel pins?, isn't that bad?. So a basemap means that my p06 ECU can run the same engine that the p28 can. Awesome, I didn't know that.
 
your motor should only take 2 dowel pins..and you should run them but it is not needed..i only ran 1...
dowel pins are to make sure the head is lined up exactly where its supposed to be...
if you do not run dowel pins then when you go to put the head on make sure the head bolts are in the head first that way when you set it on the block they will line the head up as best as possible...if your running headstuds then you should be ok as far as lining up goes...just make sure both surfaces are clean and the gasket is on the correct way
 
yeah if you have a chipped ecu, you can run whatever basemap you want. basically, you can run any motor from any ecu. obd1 is the best and easiest to tune and chip, which is why everybody uses that.

none of the dowel's would line up, so how could i use them? i did say that i am using head studs so that worked fine. with the head studs in the block i put the head gasket down and then the head on. once the head was on and sitting there, there was actually no movement in it at all. i'm confident i won't have any issues with it
 
yea..def. shouldnt have any issues with it.goodluck,,
 
ARP Head Studs

yeah if you have a chipped ecu, you can run whatever basemap you want. basically, you can run any motor from any ecu. obd1 is the best and easiest to tune and chip, which is why everybody uses that.

none of the dowel's would line up, so how could i use them? i did say that i am using head studs so that worked fine. with the head studs in the block i put the head gasket down and then the head on. once the head was on and sitting there, there was actually no movement in it at all. i'm confident i won't have any issues with it

Ok, just making sure that I don't have to use the dowel pins. I will just use the ARP's to hold it down thanks for that information you just saved me $5 that I will put toward the studs:). How do I tune my E.C.U. myself?. I have the 11f0 kit installed so it will now run VTEC just like the p28. I am getting my E.C.U. tested at my local Honda dealer tomorrow so I can see if it works properly. Thanks for all the advice it has really been helpful and considering you have done the swap already and say it runs good I will follow your advice.
 
honestly, if you haven't tuned before, i wouldn't recommend doing it yourself. it doesn't cost too much to have a street tune done. or get your ecu chipped, which i think it already is, and have your chip burnt with a y8 basemap. that's what i'm gonna do until i build everything a little more. then get it all tuned
 
Tuning

Ok, perfect I will get it done by a professional ONCE I am done. Everyone says that this setup MUST be tuned after it is installed, is this correct and if not would you still suggest that I get a proper tune done?.
 
it doesn't HAVE to be tuned. i'm running my a6/y8 mini me off of a stock p28 which is for a z6. i guess the fuel and timing maps are all wrong, so i'm running rich at idle and lean during vtec. i'm gonna have a chipped ecu soon so i'm gonna try running the right basemap and see how much of a difference it is. then again, somebody close is selling a built z6 head for super cheap, so i might end up just swapping heads again. idk, we'll see lol
 
Performance or Stock?

Is the z6 built with performance parts or OEM parts?. How much is buddy asking, because if it's really cheap I'm sure you could sell your y8 head for about $100-$150 and put that towards it. You mentioned that the a6/z6 combo is the way you'd rather go anyway. Well best of luck with your decision:).
 
yeah i know man. well it says it has a "zex turbo cam" but zex is comp cams and they only have stage1 and 2 so idk what he means by that. and then it says it has skunk2 springs and titanium retainers. sounds like an awesome deal, but that's not including the dizzy, he wants another 70 for that. i could sell me complete head for 150 or more because i just rebuilt it when i did the swap. i mean fully disassembled and rebuilt with new seals, everything thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled with proper torque. not to mention my valve cover has a lot of time into it and looks super bad ass lol. hopefully it'll all work out
 
Skunk2 valvetrain I hear isn't the best. I'm not trying to knock it down just letting you know what I "heard" not experienced. I would do some more research because you don't wanna spend x amount of dollars on an engine you may not like, when that money could be used elsewhere (say a turbo:)). I hope everything goes well for you too, man. Do you have any pics. of your valve cover?.
 
ive heard that skunk2 isnt rlly that great either unless you use all of their products on a well built motor..talking like fully built...
 
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