Yes. You will need the ECU, engine harness, and if it is an automatic the TCU possibly. THe ECU is at the feet of the passenger, you'll pull the carpet back and there is a plate held down with 10mm bolts. The ECU is obviously the larger one.
You can take the engine out and leave the transmission in if you remove the crank pulley on the old engine. I highly recommend doing it that way.
DO NOT BE AN IDIOT AND NOT CHANGE YOUR OIL SEALS. While you've got the engine on the ground, replace the rear main, and do the timing belt, and replace the cam seal, balance shaft seal, and the crankshaft seal. Also replace the front seal of the transmission, you slide the toque converter out to get to it. Have someone who's done seals before help you if you have not done them before. Do the timing belt, balance shaft belt, and water pump too.If the engine is up around 200k, do the two pulleys as well. Taking my advice will make sure you don't develop any oil leaks you cannot easily access, and also prevent the timing belt from breaking. You also have VERY easy access to the three heater hoses while you're changing the engine, I'd highly recommend replacing those (and the thermostat) while you are doing it.
You've talking a few hundred dollars, for sure, but ask yourself if you think you don't have $300 right now, will you have $2000 later to pay someone else to do all that, or like 40 hours of free time to just dive in and fix it? I think that swap is an awesome one to do, I've got an F22B1 96 and I really like the SOHC VTEC for the gas mileage/performance ratio you get. Good luck with it, keep us posted, and feel free to ask any questions