For those that have put an LS crank in the GSR...

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cws13

Senior Member
looking for vouches for people who have gone this route. I'm rebuliding a GSR with an upgraded valve train , ITR cams and pistons. I have a spare LS bottom end laying around and was thinking of using the crank and rods. I'm aware of the squirter issue. Outside of that, what about longevity. i have been reading for days and can't get a solid answer on longevity.


I have to get this thing off the floor and to the machine shop in a couple of days. Without an answer I will leave it all GSR/ITR...but would like to go this hybrid route if it's worth it. It will be a daily run on Hondata so I would like the midrange bump from the b18A crank if it's a worthy setup. I may upgrade the cams and a few other things later but mainly it has no pie in the sky asperations. If at the end of the road I can wring 200 at the wheel out of it I'll be happy. Thanks in advance.



Oh yeah, and piston recommends with the LS version? I think that the P73's will be a little more compression than I'd like to hit on a daily if I use the LS crank...don't really want to to get too far away from mid 11's:1 Trying to keep it cheap and use OEM bottom end pieces except for the ARP stuff.
 
I'm running an LS crank in a GSR block... no problems at all here. I had to pull the piston squirters though- I kept knocking them off. I don't know if it was because of the crank or the 85mm pistons though.

There aren't any longevity issues- it's just like building a nice LS/VTEC, except you already have the girdle and oil squirters in the block.
 
The #1 reason to put an ls crank in a gsr block:

DYNO.jpg
 
Originally posted by civicious@Mar 6 2005, 08:42 PM
The #1 reason to put an ls crank in a gsr block:

DYNO.jpg

[post=470015]Quoted post[/post]​



Thats about the most useless post ever, got any details on the setup?
 
Originally posted by nfn15037+Mar 6 2005, 08:22 PM-->
civicious
@Mar 6 2005, 08:42 PM
The #1 reason to put an ls crank in a gsr block:

DYNO.jpg

[post=470015]Quoted post[/post]​



Thats about the most useless post ever, got any details on the setup?
[post=470026]Quoted post[/post]​



listen, cuntsmear. show me your all-motor dyno topping that (which, by the way, was a gsr with an ls crank), and then talk. until then, shut the flying fuck up. as far as useless posts go, how did yours contribute to this thread? guess what eisenhower, it didn't. hondabond this cock in your mouth, bitch.
 
Originally posted by civicious+Mar 6 2005, 10:21 PM-->
Originally posted by nfn15037@Mar 6 2005, 08:22 PM
civicious
@Mar 6 2005, 08:42 PM
The #1 reason to put an ls crank in a gsr block:

DYNO.jpg

[post=470015]Quoted post[/post]​



Thats about the most useless post ever, got any details on the setup?
[post=470026]Quoted post[/post]​



listen, cuntsmear. show me your all-motor dyno topping that (which, by the way, was a gsr with an ls crank), and then talk. until the, shut the flying fuck up. as far as useless posts go, how did yours contribute to this thread? guess what eisenhower, it didn't. hondabond this cock in your mouth, bitch.
[post=470071]Quoted post[/post]​



OOOO your such a badass, maybe someday I can talk to people like that! All I was saying is that your dyno plot, with ZERO explanation, is useless to this thread. You offer zero explanation, my post however asks you to explaain so you can maybe help someone, but hey, why would you want to help someone? It might as well be a picture of your ass. And FWIW, I don't need to show off and act hard on some message board to get respect, loser.

Oh yeah, one more thing, here is my dyno plot of my 10.3:1 compression, STOCK block 150k mile old GSR. Ported head and milled .020, Skunk2 stage 1 cams, portflow/ITR springs, JDM 4-1 and a Ported stock intake manifold with some good tuning. Thanks, please pull through dickhead.

myGSR.jpg
 
you = pwn3d by civicious and we-todd-did.
ownedbycivicious2kk.jpg


My post was showing the potential that an LS crank in a GSR has. Your post said nothing but this:

Thats about the most useless post ever, got any details on the setup?


You didn't ask for any explanation or anything. You were trying to look like a hardass, however you ended up looking limper than my cock after a round with your mom. Quit destroying threads and help the kid out. This discussion ends HERE

_____________________________________________________________



To the original poster: An LS crank in a GSR block will yield slightly more torque than a GSR crank. You won't end up with any kind of longetivity problems and/or reliability problems if you do it the right way. If you hammer on it daily or half-ass it, you'll end up with problems, yeah...but that goes without saying for ANY motor.
 
Look again, man you are just so cool! Maybe someday I can speak like an uneducated idiot! Get over yourself man.
 
ok both of you cut it out. will you did kind of make it look like you can get 200 whp just by putting a ls crank in gsr block. cut the flaming guys and get on topic or this gets locked.
 
thanks for the info guys and please don't get this locked. :lol:

It's been forever since I've been able to be on regularly.

calesta, I don't remember you using the Ls crank in your first build, you were still going back together with your second with IB stuff if I remember correctly when I stopped coming by for a while. Was there a noticable difference? With that crank what OEM piston do you think I should run to stay in the mid 11's for compression ratio?


civicious, since you have just about my exact goal in your dyno plot for a daily I would like to know what you used if it's alright. thanks again guys.

It didn't seems to be too big of an undertaking to me. I read several threads on HT about guys spinning bearings. I hate those threads because if you've never done it you never know if it was machining mistakes, owner operator, or actual dangers in a build. Keep it coming...
;)
 
Originally posted by cws13+Mar 6 2005, 10:51 PM-->
thanks for the info guys and please don't get this locked. :lol:
[post=470107]Quoted post[/post]​

:werd:

Matt, Wil- quit fighting. Now.

Originally posted by cws13@Mar 6 2005, 10:51 PM
calesta, I don't remember you using the Ls crank in your first build, you were still going back together with your second with IB stuff if I remember correctly when I stopped coming by for a while. Was there a noticable difference? With that crank what OEM piston do you think I should run to stay in the mid 11's for compression ratio?
[post=470107]Quoted post[/post]​


The first build was a B20, so it already had the 89mm crank- just not in a GSR block. The last build and current builds were both using the LS crank in the GSR block, and it's been pretty nice. I couldn't tell you a difference between cranks since I've been on the same stroke from the beginning, but I don't think you're really going to be able to feel a difference unless you just happen to run two different cranks with identical engine setups.

:)

I think if you run straight B16 pistons, you'll get mid-high 11 compression ratios.

cws13
@Mar 6 2005, 10:51 PM
It didn't seems to be too big of an undertaking to me. I read several threads on HT about guys spinning bearings. I hate those threads because if you've never done it you never know if it was machining mistakes, owner operator, or actual dangers in a build. Keep it coming...
;)
[post=470107]Quoted post[/post]​


I've had no problems with bearings here.
 
My setup was an 85MM Golden Eagle sleeved B18C1 block, CP 12:1 pistons, Eagle rods, LS crank, GSR head, Skunk2 Stage 2 cams, Portflow valvesprings & retainers, Skunk2 intake manifold, Skunk2 cam gears, DSM 450cc injectors, Crappy Ebay intake, Ported ITR header, RSR ExMag exhaust, CarSound cat, CTR tranny, ACT ProLite flywheel, Clutchmasters stage 3 clutch, Gator stage 2 axles, tuned with a P28 + Hondata S200. And guess how it died.....


I spun a bearing. <_<

The Honda Showoff page for that car: http://www.hondashowoff.com/profile.php?id=4774
 
so you spun a bearing...

do you think that was from issues with the ls crank?
or were there other contributing factors?
edit: cursed? oh lol :)
 
The guy I bought the block from told me he hadn't taken it apart since he bought it from PYR in Houston. Come to find out he told my roommate 'I know it was fine when I sold it to Wil, I took it apart and checked the bearings myself.'

Ironically, when I took off the rods, the rod bolts on the bearing that spun were only fingertight. Go figure.

<_<
 
ah, i see...
that sucks...

threadjack: so what happens when you spin a bearing? can you just get new bearings? or does the block get fucked? what about the crank? i;m sure thats unusable without machine work right?
 
In my case, I would have just had to buy a new bearing and get my crank polished, and possibly buy a new rod. However, I was already around $10k in the hole, and couldn't afford the downtime and/or what it would cost me to get it done, so I just sold everything. If you let it run for a while with the bearing spun (with it knocking), it'll more than likely destroy your pistons and scar up your cylinder walls. In my case, it ran for like 20 seconds after it started knocking, because as soon as it did I shut it down and pulled it apart.
 
ouch, sorry to hear about that but thanks for the details. I wish I could afford the 85 mm block right now. A grand for sleeves is going to run more than my whole build though...
 
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