***H22 SWAPS...GENERAL QUESTIONS***

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

I call bullshit. H22 injectors and F22 harness, no wiring there. Your friends need a different hobby.
 
Originally posted by tab@Oct 30 2004, 08:26 PM
I call bullshit.  H22 injectors and F22 harness, no wiring there.  Your friends need a different hobby.
[post=409712]Quoted post[/post]​



lol.. :lol: ..i had never heard of this myself either but i dont think he was saying that i HAVE to rewire it but its deffinately recommended. According to him..the stock accord was meant to run at a low impeedence which restricted the amount of fuel into the motor from the injectors, and to achieve that maxium amount of fuel flow to the injectors from the old F22 to the new H22 that i should wire all the wires together into one to achieve a higher impeedence which in turn will increase the amount of fuel flow. I mean i dont know about the rest of you but it makes quite a bit of sence to me...i mean im not saying im going to go ahead and do this but, the fuel system in an stock accord cant possibly be enough to achieve the maximum amount of fuel the H22 needs to run at 100%. yea it will run and probably good but redoing the fuel system could deffiantely make the motor run better and alot more efficient...what do u think?? :blink:
 
From what I have heard, high impedance and low impedance are totally different. You need to know which you have just to test them.

I know that they work fine with a normally modified harness.
 
ok..new question...i think i asked this before but im hearing something different now....i asked a while ago if i was able to use my f22 accord power steering pump on my h22...i believe that i was told that i could use the punp but i would have to use the accord bracket in which only 2 of the bolts would fit properely and i would have to extend the powersteering pump line. well now im hearing that i may not be able to use the pump because it might not clear the hood and that i would have to bend the shit out of the existing line to make it work. is this true? has anybody experienced this in their accord/h22 swap??
 
well i cant fully prove this but... i have the h22/h23 frankenstein engine and i just recently looked under a hood of an accord with the f22 engine and the powersteering pump on it looked about the same as mine does. if you cant get it to work just go to pepboys and get them to order you one and trade in the existing one you have. i forgot how much it cost but its not more than $200
 
I don't know if it works......When I did my original swap, I was told to trade the pumps and brackets, so that's what I did. I didn't even try the Accord pump, I was worried about so many other things........

The swap is so easy and simple for me now, I wouldn't hesitate to try it. That hose is $140.

I vote try it........but don't stress about it. You've been out a car this long. If it does not work, it's the easiest accessory to get to for a change. Changing that hose with the engine in the car is a biotch.

Do you have the prelude pump?
 
**** UPDATE****


ok after about 3 weeks of intense work the motor is up and running..but im experiencing some VERY strange problems with the motor as well as the ECU so heres the layout

first off...i just found out that the motor that i got was off an automatic.....now, ther are some debate issues that ive been trying to get a straight answer from because friends are telling me that the auto H22 motor is 20 HP less than the manual H22 motor? if someone knows the real answer please let me know.


i am also having some ECU code probelms but i posted that shit in the ECU forum


another this is that the motor is running very choppy..is that possibly from a bad fuel system?...like i had mentioned earlier, it seems that the fuel pump isnt putting out enoughf pressure beacuse it take me a good 5 -8 seconds to start the car when cold and even when its hot it sometimes dosent start right away.this was happening when i had my old F22 and its happening again

thanks in advanced...and for you guys that always answer all of my questions (TAB, DOHCVTEC_ACCORD,Calesta ) thanks again
 
No one has shown me proof of the Automatic having less HP or Torque. The cams may be slightly different, but I wouldn't worry about it.


I'm guessing that if you changed the ECU, and you changed the engine, it would make sense that something left behind or reused is causing that problem of yours. Did you change the fuel filter?

I'd change the fuel filter and test your pressure.

Let us know what's going on. :)
 
WELL HERES THE UPDATE:
it takes about a good 10 seconds crank for the car to initially start. at normal idle speed smells of fuel. my AIR/FUEL gauge is always reading rich. i bought a new VTEC solenoid and put it on the car and its dosent thorw a code but after about 30 seconds of driving the car throws a vehicle speed sensor code but i already know that i need one but for some reason i cant figure out why else it would run like shit the motor seems to be lacking fuel of some sort. when ever tap the gas at idle, the rpms dip to like 200 and then it increases...almost as if the car has no fuel...now i know that ive mentioned this to you guys many times before but i really believe that my fuel system is causing many of the problems on this motor. but thats my guess because of the way the car is acting and also because the same symptoms as far as roughf idle, excessive craking to start, etc...all happened on my old motor. i havent changed the fuel filter yet but im going to get all new fuel system components probably after christmas.
 
I can't remember the cost, but I remember thinking that a Walbro 255 pump is not THAT much money.

Have you tested the fuel system at all? If you are using the H22 injectors and fuel rail, then I would test the system before wasting any more time or money.
 
well i never changed the timing on the motor when got it cuz i didnt know how to so i just left it alone...even tho its recomend that it be changed. but i would assume that it was timed properely cuz it looks original and ovibously it must have came out of a running car and it is running but i really think its a fuel problem.
 
Originally posted by TeamUrbanChaos@Dec 23 2004, 04:09 PM
well i never changed the timing on the motor when got it cuz i didnt know how to so i just left it alone...even tho its recomend that it be changed. but i would assume that it was timed properely cuz it looks original and ovibously it must have came out of a running car and it is running but i really think its a fuel problem.
[post=436482]Quoted post[/post]​

YOU did a motor swap and didnt change the timing belt/water pump??????? :blink:
 
Originally posted by 94CivicSlow+Jan 4 2005, 08:00 AM-->
TeamUrbanChaos
@Dec 23 2004, 04:09 PM
well i never changed the timing on the motor when got it cuz i didnt know how to so i just left it alone...even tho its recomend that it be changed. but i would assume that it was timed properely cuz it looks original and ovibously it must have came out of a running car and it is running but i really think its a fuel problem.
[post=436482]Quoted post[/post]​

YOU did a motor swap and didnt change the timing belt/water pump??????? :blink:
[post=440907]Quoted post[/post]​


No, he didn't change the timing of the engine. Although, it should be checked if there's an ignition problem. Assuming that the engine is timed correctly is kinda silly....
 
ok heres another issue in having with this swap...and i have no clue what it could be from. lately after about 10 mins of driving, my car will throw a code for the vehicle speed sensor malfunction. now when i did the swap i changed the VSS and everything was fine.later...i brought it to a shop and they told me that i needed a new vehicle speed sensor crank gear..im guessing its the part that spins the sensor to give it a reading..anyway i bought that and i had it put in but the same problem is still occuring. the guy at the shop told me that the only other thing that it could be would be from the gauge cluster inside the car....theres a speed sensor behind that and that might be the malfunctioning part of why it keeps throwing a code. his explaination might be true though because i did buy another gauge bezel for that car not too long ago so i can put my indiglo guages in, but at the same time my old F22 ECU never threw that code so im kinda confused?....but what do u guys think??
 
Originally posted by TeamUrbanChaos@Jan 7 2005, 11:48 AM
ok heres another issue in having with this swap...and i have no clue what it could be from. lately after about 10 mins of driving, my car will throw a code for the vehicle speed sensor malfunction. now when i did the swap i changed the VSS and everything was fine.later...i brought it to a shop and they told me that i needed a new vehicle speed sensor crank gear..im guessing its the part that spins the sensor to give it a reading..anyway i bought that and i had it put in but the same problem is still occuring. the guy at the shop told me that the only other thing that it could be would be from the gauge cluster inside the car....theres a speed sensor behind that and that might be the malfunctioning part of why it keeps throwing a code. his explaination might be true though because i did buy another gauge bezel for that car not too long ago so i can put my indiglo guages in, but at the same time my old F22 ECU never threw that code so im kinda confused?....but what do u guys think??
[post=442584]Quoted post[/post]​




Team, hows the car? Any updates? I'm about ready to jump in to a H22A/1991 Accord EX swap and was just wondering if you've been able to get the problems sorted out.

Thanks!

Shawn
 
well becuase of the cold ass weather i havent been able to work on the car all that much. i gonnna try to swap out the bezel and see if that solves my Vehicle Speed Sensor problem, if that dosent work then ima have to try buying a brand new VSS crank and sensor and see how that works. besides that the car runs strong. im waiting on a chip that PROJEKTEG is making me. hopefully after that the car will run like a champ!! other than that i could probably bennifit from a good tune up and DYno but besides that its runnin good...if you thinkin about gettin an H22, i would deffainately go for it your gonna have a shit load of fun with it
 
Originally posted by tab@Sep 21 2004, 08:47 PM
1 yes
2 no
3 It is in fact easier to use the stock harness. yes, but not all of those wires are just for VTEC
4 Just buy the right ECU, even though that might work, it's not worth the hassle. Either buy a chipped P28 or chipped P72, or buy a plain JDM P13
5 JDM P13 stock for stock. Modified P28 for tuning and losing the knock sensor. Modified P72 for tuning and keeping the knock sensor.
6 Knock sensor, see #5. I'd go with a chipped P28 if you keep the car running right and use good gas, but that is only a preference due to my own troubles with that particular sensor.
7 Intake Air Bypass. Changes the path of air through your intake to influence runner length, changing power characteristics. Gives more torque down low, and better top end also. The ECU triggers a solenoid that uses vacuum to open a butterfly.
8 yes
9 Not that I've heard of, but I honestly don't know.
[post=393279]Quoted post[/post]​
 
Sorry if this was already answered, but I have not seen it. Looking for a h22a engine swap guide to put in my 90 honda accord. I know there is a place to buy on internet, but its $30 american for a downloadable file. Can anyone help me get my hands on a guide.

Thanks
 
Back
Top