ls vtec
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Magana559
The Warden
98EkSi
again, if you use a LS head gasket you will have to remove the brass rings, Look at the very first pic. GSR head gasket with port matched oil returnes are best for LSV's. I personaly have built over 10 high reving LS/B20 vtec engines that are still running to this day over the past 6 years.
The key is a well built engine, good oil feed to the head, rods, mains, 98+ gsr oil/water pumps, and a good tune.
again, if you use a LS head gasket you will have to remove the brass rings, Look at the very first pic. GSR head gasket with port matched oil returnes are best for LSV's. I personaly have built over 10 high reving LS/B20 vtec engines that are still running to this day over the past 6 years.
The key is a well built engine, good oil feed to the head, rods, mains, 98+ gsr oil/water pumps, and a good tune.
Magana559
The Warden
I would replace the oil and water pump. ACL, OEM, or clevete bearings are all good. What is importanat are the clearences and torque.
Im using Acl bearings for both rods and mains reving to 8k on a 11.5:1 LS making 174 whp with bad rings.
No you dont have to remove the rivets look at the pics. The rivets will clear the head and block and will not get in the way at all. I have never needed to remove them and never had an issue. Kind of hard to tell in the pics but the rivets will not get pinched between the head and block they will clear them. 99-01 LS blocks also came with a P72 GSR oil pump, this is why I like 99-01 LS blocks.
Oem ls head gasket rivets will hang on the edge and it will not get pinched. I have and done to my own lsv.
No need to removed them^_^
OP!
I'm running a 12.5cpIt all comes down to preference and what work for us all. I personal only use OEM ls headgasket and None other so I cannot say. I have not taken any rivets off in any of them and have not have any leaks.
I will leak my secret
wait,,,not really a secret to reliable lsv
Oem headgasket
gsr arp headstuds
ls arp rod bolts
Personal tune
Gsr/oil pump
B16/gsr water pump
Gsr oem timing belt.
A good clearances for Main and Rods to whatever bearings you choose.
I have never balance the internal in any of them.
Oem ls head gasket rivets will hang on the edge and it will not get pinched. I have and done to my own lsv.
No need to removed them^_^
OP!
Yep you are correct, they do not get in the way. If you look at pic #4 at the lower right of the head gasket you can see where the Vtec oil passage hole is and how it hangs over the edge of the head and block, this is where a oil will will happen if using a Vtec gasket. You need a GSR water pump not a B16 by the way, a LS water pump will work with a LS timing belt but the GSR water pumper is designed to flow more water at higher rpms. There is more to it but that is a simple example.
Reliable LS Vtec
LS head gasket
GSR head bolts or studs
GSR water pump and timing belt
P72 oil pump
ARP rod bolts
Tune
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Johnnyboy45
New Member
Will type r p73 pistons with shotpeen ls rods on 11.5:1 cr pump gas for lsvtec last me long I will b rumning a gsr head crower valve springs n retainers ferrea valves skunk2 tuner stage 2 cams oem ls headgasket arp head studs alot of other shyt main question is will this last me long as a daily driver will this setup b good wit does pistons or should I go forged wit eagle rods
dude it wil totaly last u 4ever, thats hella builtnshit, cant fuk wit it.
Oh yea, try starting your own thread, it feels good.
Hey guys I got a stock ls crank so I'm almost there! I'm going to use oem bearings and I'm going to copper coat the eagle headgasket its still in good shape so I see no problem with that I hope. Eagle sent me a new rod so all I have to do is fit the bearings. If there is any thing that yall will add it would be a big help. I'm stoked about this build
78civic
Junior Member
+1^
There are only a couple things that make a bearing spin.
1-Trash was in between the rod caps when torqued down/together, causing unequal torque and clearance and spun.
2- trash in oil got pumped through crank pin to bearing causing gouging, therefore causing too much resistance, binding the bearing to crank, it shears off little 'tangs' on said bearing, and with nothing holding them in the rod, well.. They spin.
3- You or the inexperienced driver lost oil pressure and with the lack of lubricity, it overheated said bearing. They fell in love and got married/became one/got tired of eachother and asked 'crank pin' to join, since he was 'movin' too fast, the whole thing was ruined. Sending the infection throughout the whole community .
SORRY kids.. I just couldn't help it.
ToO much caffine
Like he said^ go to a pull it, get a complete short block, clean the dang thing, take it to the machinist and have him rebuild it..
P.S.--- Use LOTS OF LUBE
E
There are only a couple things that make a bearing spin.
1-Trash was in between the rod caps when torqued down/together, causing unequal torque and clearance and spun.
2- trash in oil got pumped through crank pin to bearing causing gouging, therefore causing too much resistance, binding the bearing to crank, it shears off little 'tangs' on said bearing, and with nothing holding them in the rod, well.. They spin.
3- You or the inexperienced driver lost oil pressure and with the lack of lubricity, it overheated said bearing. They fell in love and got married/became one/got tired of eachother and asked 'crank pin' to join, since he was 'movin' too fast, the whole thing was ruined. Sending the infection throughout the whole community .
SORRY kids.. I just couldn't help it.
ToO much caffine
Like he said^ go to a pull it, get a complete short block, clean the dang thing, take it to the machinist and have him rebuild it..
P.S.--- Use LOTS OF LUBE
E
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