My new 2010 Subaru WRX

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i believe the lines represent shifting at redline and where on the speedo it ends up. like in gran turismo lol
yeah, I was gonna say, have you not seen a gear ratio plot before? lol they all look like this. I actually made this tool in Excel myself (with all subaru transmissions in a chart with reference ratios). with my tool, I can change the tire size and the rpm limit and it will adjust the graph accordingly.

but yeah, 4->5 is pretty short.

but this is a "long ratio" 6speed in comparison to JDM and earlier USDM models.

Here's a plot of the 04 USDM STi (that you used to have back in the day), plotted against my 6speed. you had shorter 2-3-4, but the same 5 and 6. made the 4-5 shift a bigger drop.


And here's a plot of the JDM STi trans. shorter ratios with nice spacing. but also keep in mind this was connected to a twin scroll 2.0L 8k rpm motor. not the 2.5L/6500rpm that's in the US models.


and here's a plot of the US Legacy Spec B. longer 5 and 6. a lot of people like these ratios in the US, but this box doesnt come with DCCD. some people swap in the 5th and 6th gears into their STi boxes for these ratios with DCCD.


these are the major 6speed ratios. otherwise certain models differ mainly in the front/center/rear diff configurations.
i had an 05 (i think it was the same tranny though)

4th to 5th was my biggest gripe with the car (that, and needed to get gas EVERY day because I had a 105 mile commute round trip and the car was good for 200 miles a tank....)

normal suburb driving, 45 mph
4th tached out, 5th had no balls to get up ANY hill requiring a downshift to 4th
oh ok, yeah, the only difference between the 04 STi trans and the 05 STi is the front diff type, both had a clutch/plate type rear diff

04 - A.P. Suretrac
05 - Helical

my trans (according to the sheet) has a helical front LSD like your 05, but a slightly different DCCD, and I have a Torsen rear diff instead of the clutch/plate type.
big update:

started noticing the engine running hot one day. popped the hood -> bubbling coolant in the reservoir. smells like gas. classic blown headgasket symptoms. about 100k on the rebuilt motor. same mileage as before.
To IAG it goes...

I wanted to try to get out of this with as little out of pocket as necessary. but it wasnt in the cards. pistons worn significantly, 100k of wear, etc. motor is already overbored to 99.75mm (stock = 99.5mm).
IAG could bore to 100mm and maintain a tight PTW clearance, but 100mm is flirting with thin sleeves and its common to crack at that point.
could stay at 99.75 with new pistons, keep my old block, but PTW would be pretty loose at .040-.045"
or throw a brand new build short block in. 99.5 stock size with drop in pistons = .030-.035 PTW
rebore new block to 99.75 sized exactly to the pistons for a tight .025 PTW.

i decided to stick with a new block with drop in pistons. it was a compromise to keep costs of extra machining down.


  • Manley 99.5mm Platinum Series Pistons, Ringset, Tool Steel Pins and Clips (w/ Coated Skirts and Offset Wrist Pin)
  • New FHI Subaru Case Halves at 99.5mm (Stock Bore)
  • Brian Crower Sportsman H-Beam Forged Connecting Rods w/ ARP2000 Rod Bolts
  • New FHI Subaru Heat-Treated 2012+ STI Crankshaft
  • ACL or King Race Rod Bearings
  • ACL or King Race Main Bearings
  • New FHI Main Case Bolts
  • IAG Spec Blueprint Sheet
  • Power Output Rating: 650BHP

-heads are getting refreshed, cleaned reserfaced, valvejob, all new gaskets, yada yada yada. new oil pump and water pump, couple broken small ticket items that needed replacement.
-being re-assembled with a Killer-B header that i picked up just before i found out about the head gasket.
-replacing the fuel pump with a higher flowing E-85 compatible unit. AEM 320lph. the walro255 has been fine, but 100k of use.
-replacing the grimmspeed EBCS with a new unit from Company23. reduces the surge, and has bigger internal valving for better boost control without wastegate flutter.
-keeping the stock turbo for now. plan to upgrade in the near future.

thats all for now.
guy from the shop just send me that pic while it was still in assembly. dont think he got any other pics. but i'll post some pics after i get the car back.

hopefully by the end of the week.
ive been borrowing a spare truck that my parents have.

98 Chevy S10 maunal trans. its a POS, leaks coolant, clutch sucks, windows dont work. but it gets me around just fine. eager to get my car back.
Got the car back today. Notable issues/changes from previous engine.

-Addition of forged rods (lighter/stronger)
-Killer-B header instead of full-race
-One intake cam replaced (wear)
-Engine mounts replaced (one was broken)
-Swapped to a more capable boost control solenoid. Better boost control
-Swapped in a different fuel pump, E85 compatible and higher flow. AEM 320lph
-11mm oil pump, more flow (old was 10mm with 200k on it)

Car was retuned today. And made 320whp and 355trq. Up some peak power, down some trq. Haven't had the chance to stretch its legs yet.

little audio/entertainment enhancements.

Doug picked up one of those cheap touch screen android based chinese head units. so I figured I'd try one out.

I picked up the Xtrons TB706APL from eBay. $280 shipped
Specs here:

with a Subaru->ISO harness, and a new trim panel (from Subaru) that i sanded out to fit, it was pretty much plug and play even bolted up to the stock mounting brackets. I'm not using all of the features so there was a lot of stuff i didnt wire up (external amp, backup camera, SWC, reverse/e-brake switches, etc). but it's a pretty powerful unit for the price. I might add an aftermarket backup camera just for the hell of it.

I give it internet from my phone's mobile hotspot (unlimited data) so it has access to anything that a smart phone would. most android apps work fine. but i mainly use google maps, and Amazon music app. downloaded Youtube also. The unit is very fast and responsive and most issues i had early on were fixed with some setting tweaks and a firmware upgrade.

pic installed:


issues still not fully resolved:
built in mic quality is apparently pretty bad. people on the other end said it wasnt great. i can wire in an external if i need
interference when trying to use bluetooth and wifi at the same time. not sure how much this can be fixed. probably poor antenna design
google maps has been acting weird lately, probs a buggy update.

over all i like it.
That's awesome. I should look into this more. my cd changer doesn't take discs any more (no biggie) and the blue tooth on my car sucks. no one can here me once i'm going more than 25 mph, even if the windows are up. crappy mic. plus, the Bluetooth i have is so old that all it is good for is phone integration, which again, is useless, so i still have an ipod. eeek..

tell me more about this ISO harness?
the ISO plug is just a standardized car audio plug i think. the harness on the unit itself comes with an ISO plug on the end. then you just buy an adapter from your car's plug to ISO and mayybe need to wire up a couple things (in my case i had to manually wire in an illumination wire, antenna amplifier, and a ground wire). but i did that by wiring into the pins of the harness. I did not splice anything to the factory wiring.