new to turbo

mck26

Junior Member
im new to turbo so i just have a few questions before i do what i plan on doing. I want to turbo my B16 motor. i plan on using stock rods with ARP rod bolts and GSR pistons that would yield a 9:1 CR in a B16. also keeping the head stock and the stock redline of 8200 rpm. is this enough strength down the bottom end for a daily driver of 6, 7, or 8 psi? also my only fuel upgrades was going to be a 12:1 FMU and 280cc injectors instead of the 240 stocks. is this adequate because i dont plan on boosting more in the near future? also would an exedy stage 1 clutch be enough holding power for this power of roughly 230 flywheel?
my turbo setup is going to be a custom pieced together setup of T3 turbo and the rest of the parts just letting you know.
 

posol

RETIRED
Staff member
gsr pistons in a b16 will drop you to 8.75:1(usdm) or 9.2:1 (jdm)
8.7 is way to freakin low if you want to have any fun.
if you run the 280's, make sure you get a FPR to tune them down a hair
 

mck26

Junior Member
so are you saying i should just leave the stock 240s in there. i do have a fpr anyway but just asking. also what about the bottom end strength and the clutch holding power? thanks
 

Citizen_Insane

Senior Member
you should be able to run a lot more than 8psi on a b16 with 9.2:1 comp. I have heard many times here that you can run 7-9psi on a STOCK b16....with 10.2:1 comp.
 

posol

RETIRED
Staff member
its all in the tuning.

some folks make 300 whp on stock motors reliably for years
some folks blow up on 200 whp built motors in a month.

90% of bottom ends that blow up do so because of detonation. detonation is 100% caused by improper tuning, either fuel or ignition (or, say bad/wrong octane gas).

5% are mostly from boost spikes, which in turn, make the motor run too lean, and thus, detonate.

and the other 5% comes from shit just letting go. be it oil pumps, a weak rod, etc. all things break.
half-assing the fuel setup is the worst thing you can do.

PSI is irrelevant to power for the most part. each turbo is so very different. saying 6 psi is meaningless.

6 psi out of a t25 is like 30 horsepower (figure of speach)
6 psi out of a t999 is like 3000 horsepower (figure of speach)

turbos compress air. the larger the turbo, generally, the more dense a given volume of space is. more density = more air in 1 given uint of space. how MUCH (volume (cfm) ) air gets in is what makes the power. The RESISTANCE (pressure (psi) ) as measured at the map sensor, is technically, the air NOT getting in, or what's fighting it to get in.

you suggest a T3. that's fine, but there's at least 1000 T3's on the market. some are small, some are pretty large, and some even have a 60-1 wheel in the compressor.
If you're going for a smaller t3, like a t03 .42/.48, i think you will be more than fine with the stock 240s, the missing link (or other map bypass check valve) and the 12:1 fmu.
If you're going for a larger T3, like a t03 .63/.63, i would then suggest running the 280's, the missing link, and the 12:1 fmu
if you're going for a t03/60-1, i suggest making the jump to a hondata system, or uberdata, etc along with some 440 cc injectors and some dyno time to tune it in with a tuner.

As for clutch, I'd at least go to the stage 2, and the stage 3 if you are going for the larger turbo.
 

posol

RETIRED
Staff member
also, all those setups assume you have upgraded to a larger intake pump, or at least an inline booster for the small turbo.

if the fuel can't get to the rail, you detonate- regardless of what the injector is calling for
 
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