Rear disc upgrade
- Thread starter Fastciv
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You don't HAVE to have the complete trailing arms, but you do need the cables and brakelines, it just makes it easier to unbolt the whole thing instead of taking apart the brakes. As I matter of fact, if you need them, I am going to have a rear disc conversion in a week once I upgrade mine to 99's.
And the added benefit of not swapping the trailing arms is you don't have to get an alignment afterwards.
And the added benefit of not swapping the trailing arms is you don't have to get an alignment afterwards.
Canuck 93 Civic Si
Senior Member
I used trailing arms, upper control arms, hand brake cables from a 91 teg. The only thing that needed a bit of fabricating was the support straps for the brake cables. Not really an important part of the setup, but other then that everything worked fine.
simplyfast
Senior Member
they used aluminum drums on older crx's, that is how you should go. drum brakes are more effecient than discs because they self energize themself and have a larger contact patch.
simplyfast
Senior Member
actually not solsi. aluminum dissipates the heat better, helping to keep the pads cooler. but maybe an upgrade to a hotter pad would work better.
yeah you're right ... thats probly why all the leMans cars use drums.... probly why the F1 cars use drums too.... and i havent seen a single Porsche 911 cup car that didnt have a drum brake conversion.... come to think of it im pretty sure the McLaren F1 uses drum brakes too
damn i guess car companies took a big step backwards from back when cars had all wheel drum setups
drums > disks
simplyfast
Senior Member
hold on, let me shit on the toilet before i take a shit on you two...
ok, so an aluminum drum with all brake parts will weigh less than a rotor with pads and caliper, so you will save weight there. but you two are so concerned about the stopping power created by REAR brakes. did i mention that drum brakes have more pad area? they are also self energizing. drum brakes will lock up long before a disc brake will.
but when it all comes down to it, how much braking do you think the rear brakes actually accomplish? you could disconnect the rear brake lines and never feel the difference on the vehicle he is talkin bout. the only possible reason he needs rear brakes is to keep the car in line during heavy braking while steering into a corner.
copy and paste that to your forheads you knuckleheads!
ok, so an aluminum drum with all brake parts will weigh less than a rotor with pads and caliper, so you will save weight there. but you two are so concerned about the stopping power created by REAR brakes. did i mention that drum brakes have more pad area? they are also self energizing. drum brakes will lock up long before a disc brake will.
but when it all comes down to it, how much braking do you think the rear brakes actually accomplish? you could disconnect the rear brake lines and never feel the difference on the vehicle he is talkin bout. the only possible reason he needs rear brakes is to keep the car in line during heavy braking while steering into a corner.
copy and paste that to your forheads you knuckleheads!
Uh huh. And since I have no pad lining left on my CRX's rear brakes, the instability I feel when I'm stopping in a straight line isn't caused by unbalanced braking in the rear end? Rear braking power matters in a straight line too. Sure, changing to OEM discs in the rear isn't going to make that much of a difference compared to the OEM drum setup when you're talking about overall stopping distance, but you CAN feel the difference.
The brake distribution will change how your car behaves while braking in a corner, no matter how heavy you're stomping on the pedal. It also controls how much your car will dive when you're on the brakes.
The brake distribution will change how your car behaves while braking in a corner, no matter how heavy you're stomping on the pedal. It also controls how much your car will dive when you're on the brakes.
simplyfast
Senior Member
drums are better brakes than discs, and with the 84-87 crx hf aluminum drums, you will save weight also. i think you can save 4lbs by goin with aluminum drums while saving 3.2lbs by goin with discs.
what youre talkin about calesta is brake bias, thats it. and you really have to be driving your car and feeling it around a race track to be able to notice the effect rear brakes have on your vehicle. i doubt 3 out of 10 people on this board can feel the difference.
my friend and i replaced the rear brakes on his 89 crx si a month or two ago and guess what we found? it was original equipment from when the car was purchased. the only other person who owned the car before him was his aunt, and she saved all her receipts and not a one of them was for rear brake replacement. so that by itself shows you how much use your rear brakes see.
whats funny, were both just a couple of drifters that dont have ebrakes.
what youre talkin about calesta is brake bias, thats it. and you really have to be driving your car and feeling it around a race track to be able to notice the effect rear brakes have on your vehicle. i doubt 3 out of 10 people on this board can feel the difference.
my friend and i replaced the rear brakes on his 89 crx si a month or two ago and guess what we found? it was original equipment from when the car was purchased. the only other person who owned the car before him was his aunt, and she saved all her receipts and not a one of them was for rear brake replacement. so that by itself shows you how much use your rear brakes see.
whats funny, were both just a couple of drifters that dont have ebrakes.
I'm gonna jump in the discs vs. drums debate and offer what I know from engineering and from mountain biking. What was said about rear brakes not adding much is true. rear brakes on a front driver apply only maybe 20-30% of the stopping torque that the front brakes apply. but that 20-30% can make a big deal.
aluminum may dissipate heat faster, but what's important here is not the material, but the design. drum brakes are completely enclosed, making it very difficult for the air to cool them. discs are completely open to the air, and they provide a huge surface area to be cooled. you can't say that about your 8-inch drums, can you? also, drums are prone to flex under application of the brakes, and this efffect is magnified at higher temperature. discs are very rigid and do not exhibit this flex.
What seems to be more important than stopping power is the amount of control that one has over his braking system. any properly adjusted brake system allows you to lock all four wheels, but no one wants to do that. what's important is being able to precisely control the amount of brake force applied, so that you can achieve maximum deceleration without losing traction. Due to the drums' self-actuation, discs are infinitely better for precise control.
lastly, who cares about 4 lbs in a 2400 lb car? I could save that much weight by removing my glove box.
aluminum may dissipate heat faster, but what's important here is not the material, but the design. drum brakes are completely enclosed, making it very difficult for the air to cool them. discs are completely open to the air, and they provide a huge surface area to be cooled. you can't say that about your 8-inch drums, can you? also, drums are prone to flex under application of the brakes, and this efffect is magnified at higher temperature. discs are very rigid and do not exhibit this flex.
What seems to be more important than stopping power is the amount of control that one has over his braking system. any properly adjusted brake system allows you to lock all four wheels, but no one wants to do that. what's important is being able to precisely control the amount of brake force applied, so that you can achieve maximum deceleration without losing traction. Due to the drums' self-actuation, discs are infinitely better for precise control.
lastly, who cares about 4 lbs in a 2400 lb car? I could save that much weight by removing my glove box.
