Someone Please Help Me

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

hey new to the site....have a few questions

i'm selling my '91 wagon for something quicker and more fun to drive so i have decided on a '92-'95 civic hatch(who hasn't :unsure: ) i want a swap in it but the price has to stay down so i'm figuring on a b16 cus i don't need to have the fastest car around. i need to deliver pizzas and race every friday night. I am going to have a local shop do it for me but i would like to buy all the parts and not go through them for that. whats the best place to buy an engine/trans complete? (want something with a limited slip) is a b16a1 with a limited slip y1 good? are they hard to find? would a motor with a hydo trans be better? what else do i need? planning on hasport mounts, what axles do i need?
for bolt ons i want a nice clutch and flywheel (whats the best?). a header. probably an msd ignition set up with nice plugs and wires too. plan on a full 2 1/4 exhaust with magnaflow muffler and no cat. some unorthodox pulleys and cam gears. maybe a venom fuel set up (rail, injectors, pump, regulator,and filter). a cai, and possibly the venom pcm. just maybe some cams down the road. and thats about all i want to be quick but don't have to be blazing fast. what else do i need? and what's the best model hatch to find? an si with the 4 wheel disks? and by the way if any of you have a hatch for sale lemme know. I prefer with no motor or a swap already in sorry for the long post, thanks for any help you can give me
 
for all the extra's you just added to that b16.. you'd have a b18c1 in the car and it'll be faster.

do not get the b16 sir I, you'd need a b16 sir II which is obd1.
 
:lol: that little dude cracked me up and yes i have thought about a b18c1 but the price on those scares me a little aren't they usually at least $3000? and how much more would it be to put in the car? thats almost twice what a b16 would cost and i've heard that the b16 is just a better more reliable motor just figured that with some bolt ons i could make the b16 run just as well. don't want nitrous though doesn't seem worth it to me
 
ahhhh.. you were looking at first gen b16's... that's a no go for your car .. sorry !

it took nearly 3 grand to get my b16 into my del sol after all the little odds and ends pieces that i needed
 
planning on hasport mounts,


i have these .... they are VERY STIFF and vibrate the car a lot (just a warning)

probably an msd ignition set up with nice plugs and wires too.


dont bother your stock stuff performs better than the expensive ass aftermarket shit anyway



not worth it

some unorthodox pulleys


these do more harm than good.... dont bother

maybe a venom fuel set up (rail, injectors, pump, regulator,and filter).


dont bother... stock stuff is more than good enough

with all the stuff your looking to put onto a B16 if you get it you will be spending more money than it would cost to get a B18C1... and the B16 still isnt going to be as fast

either way get an engine that is OBD-1.... OBD-2 can be made to work relativly easily.... but OBD-0 will be a bitch
 
well after some research today and the help from you guys i will almost have to go with a b18c just closer to stock form because of $$$ i'll only be able to afford so much. the pulleys were just an idea (what harm do they do? never heard that), i will do an exhaust with no cat because around where i live there are no emissions testing laws so i'm cool for now then maybe a header intake and cam gears possibly cams and a vtec controller further down the road and the clutch flywheel and limited slip. can i use the teg axles? and is a chipped ecu worth it? do you have hasports "street" or "race" mounts

thanks for the help guys :worthy:
 
the pulleys are not balanced
this causes the crank to vibrate more adding stress to the engine itself
underdriving the alternator more often than not ends up destroying it in a pretty short period of time

so if you look at the prices:
pulleys = $200-$300 depending what ones you get
new alternator = about $200
new engine = $2000-$3500 depending what engine you get

all this for a gain of maybe 5 hp at best
a better idea would be to rip out the PS and AC youll save much more weight than the pulleys will
youll free up a lot more power than the pulleys will
it wont cost shit to do it
 
Originally posted by Roro@Apr 1 2003, 01:55 PM
or have your crank balanced with the new pulley...

That's NOT cheap.... and he's trying to stay within a tight budget. Is spending 200-300 more on pulleys and then even more to balance the crank to the newer lower quality pulley worth the 2-3hp you'll gain? Nope, especially not within his budget.

white_hot- this is HondaSwap, not Civicland.
 
buy a C1 and put I/H/E on it.


basically what you listed off up there was a b16 with a bunch of stupid shit that doesn't do anything - but costs alot.
 
i agree with them guys bout the C1..i also wanted to say..that i did not know about the pulleys doin that..but i def appreciate that info..(shit..im glad i dont have them..)and also i what i like about HONDASWAP.com is that u guys are simple with the shit..u dont believe in all that name brand stupid shit..EX..Pulleys..to get 2-3 hp..and i totally agree with that..i heard a couple of times people on here say dont waste your money on big name brand wires..cuz OEM honda wires are plenty...thats sweet..if i can have Genuine Honda Parts out perform alot of manufactured shit..thats great..cuz thats what i Vouche for..HONDA...not alot of these companies that make a shit load of money of alot of kids who see there shit in Mags/shows..dont get me wrong theres some great products out there..but there all in it for the buck..SHIT>>U DONT SEE NO STICKERS ON MY SHIT..I DONT DO ANY FREE ADVERTISING..SORRY.. B)
 
white_hot- this is HondaSwap, not Civicland.
yeah sorry about that i didn't mean it that way just that i'm new to civics but not hondas.

and thanks for all the great info guys i'm sure it'll keep me from spending way more than i need to especially on a daily driven street car what do you guys think of jun cams? too expensive? and i read once that you don't really need a vtec controller until you use new cams cus then you have to reset the fuel curves, and using one with the stock cams is just a waste cus the stock fuel curves work fine, is this true?

so I/H/E cam gears and then maybe later some cams and a controller huh? at least thats what i'm thinkin now. about how fast is a hatch with a b18c thats pretty much stock?
 
u should be running high 13's low 14's with the stock swap...with i/h/e & cams, 13's easily
 
i have a 92 civic hatch and just swaped a 97 b16a2 -del sol w/lsd and spanked a typeR 13.87
only modes needed--- po8(jdm is what i used) but a p28 si chipped is perfect, also shift linkages from a 94-00 integra ;)
 
b16a great foundation to go with. work your way up ... a good thing with b series engines.. dont believe everything you read..
 
Back
Top