Swap Help

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Senior Member
Alright, here's the deal...I've got my swap 99% done, but I'm having probs getting it to start. The engine will turn over all day long but won't fire so I've narrowed it down to 2 possibilities: clogged injectors or bum dist.

I've got a new distributor on it's way and I've got to put it in, and I put a node on the injector wires and all 4 are getting pulse but I took out the plugs and it looks like only two are getting fuel so my thinkin' is the other 2 might be clogged.

What I need to know is this: What's the best way to unclog injectors? and...Is there anything else that could be causing this prob?

I'm running a Mugen chipped P28 on my 93 civic ex with a b16a swap
(and for the record, YES, I KNOW that the b16 isn't the best way to go--shoulda used a b16a2 BUT I got the motor way cheap and I know for a fact we wired the harness right)....any thoughts would be a great help...Thanks

well when you use the b16A in an OBD1 car you will need to change the distributor and I think you may have to change the injectors too.
I was told you could use the distributor from the b16, but we found it had a crack in the housing after we cut and spliced all the wires(which we did using a wiring diagram--no probs there, just a pain in the ass)...so I have an OBD I distributor on order, it just hasn't come yet.

As for the injectors, we also replaced them because the ones we had in were only 2 Ohm resistance injectors and it's a 12 Ohm system....We have 12 Ohm injectors in place and they are all getting a pulse but I'm thinking a couple might be bad or just clogged....

Assuming I get the new distributor in place and it still won't fire I need to know how to get the injectors unclogged OR possibly put some bigger injectors in.....I've heard some DSM turbo injectors fit with a little work but I don't want to bog down the motor and get shitty milage so if I can keep my 270cc's or maybe go a little bigger help me out with some ideas....

When you say B16A do you mean siR or siRII?If it's the siR ya you need to change components.If it is a siRII check your timing.
I know it's a b16a, not a b16a2......that's why it was such a pain swappin' it in....
As for the components I've already changed both the distributor and the injectors....

How would I know if it's an Sir or a SirII?

My thinking is it's an SirII



It's an SiR, NOT an SirII
I assume it doesn't say B16A2,so move on to the clutch is it cable?siR. Or is it hydraulic?siRII
Yes, it's a b16a...SiR.....

It's an automatic, so I'm having a tough time finding the clutch cable... :whatafucktard:...........just kiddin'........

The key here injectors......how can I clean them IF they're clogged?
Ok, Here's the deal....I appreciate you guys telling me all the legality issues of my motor, but I live in southern IL....noone gives a damn about legality around here...

I'm amidst trucks with 6inch lift kits and idiots driving pimped out Cavaliers....so I'm more concerned right now about getting the car running than the legality of the swap.

They don't even emissions test in my town, so I'm not making it a concern

PLEASE help me get the car running, then I can be browbeaten about how illegal of a swap I did.....
Did you check your timing,this I will brow beat to death.Are ALL your grounds right (for instance is the valve cover one touching metal and not above the grommet) and connected,is your battery charged?My swap did the same thing just spin and spin and spin,timing was out.Don't say well I pulled it out of a running car,because so did I,but some how,by the time it got in my car,the timing was out about ninety degrees.I ask because it sounds like you have everything in order,and even clogged injectors should dribble enough gas to turn it over just not run it well.
Now this I have not checked.......I'm assuming a conventional timing light will tell me if the motor is not in time?....if not, what's the best route to take on this?

Originally posted by nimblecivic@Jan 26 2003, 05:06 PM
Now this I have not checked.......I'm assuming a conventional timing light will tell me if the motor is not in time?....if not, what's the best route to take on this?


You can take of your valve cover and look at your cam gears compared to your pulley.Or yes a timing light,if you have one and know how to use it.
1.Did you change timing belts or take it off the motor?
If you did you need to make sure they are both are at top dead center or it'll never start.

2.Are your plug wires in the right order?

3.Check distributor timing with a timing gun?

4.Check your grounds?

5.You say its firing, does that mean when you turn it over all plugs are getting spark? Have someone turn the motor over while you hold each plug near something metal if you don't hear or see a spark it ain't firing. The 88-91 distributor shouldn't work at all. Just take the distributor off the motor you just took out grind some of the legs so it fits on the b16a and then try it, this distributor will work for the time being. BTW what distributor did you order?.Then it isn't your injectors, you can use the injectors from the motor that came out of the car, all civic injectors are 240cc, but the car won't run on the 88-91 injectors, but it will run on an 88-91 system with 92+ injectors.
Ok, this is my brother's(nimblecivic's) car. I live near Jacksonville, FL, but was up there last weekend for the 3-day to try to help him finish it up.

Here's the answers to your questions:

1. Timing belt was never off of the motor. I picked the motor up intact from the importer in Jacksonville, and the belt looked good when I had the valve cover off, so we didn't replace it. Also, the cam gear notches do line up correctly (I've changed lots of Honda timing belts).

2. Plug wires ARE in the right order, Assuming it's 1-3-4-2 firing order, like every other Honda I've ever worked on, and there have been A LOT.

3. We did not check timing with a gun, because I have his SunPro inductive timing light at my home here in SE Georgia. I've never, ever had to use a timing gun on a honda, even when replacing the distributor on my accord. The only reason I even have his gun is for my HEI Chevy ignition that sucks balls and won't stay timed worth a shit.

4. Grounds are good. I did a continuity check with my Fluke.

5. Held the plug wires against the valve cover, and every one of them sparked in regular, appropriate intervals, at the top of the compression stroke. Plugs are clean, too.

:blink: HOWEVER, the distributor we were trying to start it with was the OBD-0 1st gen B16A , wired into a P-28 OBD-1 1993 Civic EX system with original OBD-1 injectors. All the distributor wiring was cut and rewired(solder and shrikwrap) per wiring diagrams, but I am 99% sure the OBD-0 distributor is the problem.
********Does anyone else think this is the problem?*******

Additionally, we ordered a '92 teg B18A1 OBD-1 grey plug distributor(used). We were going to grind off the forward lower leg, set the timing, and try to start it, but it hasn't arrived yet.
The funny thing is, the car starts up with just a little spray of starting fluid into the throttle body, then immediately dies. Injector pulses were all checked with a "noid" light, and all pulsed on the intake stroke of the respective piston, and I know the system has fuel pressure. This has me baffled. :(
Please God, let it be the distributor!!!
is your distributer 180 degrees off? Put cylinder #1 at TDC and pull of the distributer cap. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire. My car did the same thing, and it was 180 off.
Originally posted by 5genracer@Jan 27 2003, 07:02 AM
is your distributer 180 degrees off? Put cylinder #1 at TDC and pull of the distributer cap. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire. My car did the same thing, and it was 180 off.

^^^^try that too,mine was 90 out (have no idea how)so it was easy to look at and tell.