I'm thinking of getting a LS engine from www.jspecauto.com, Its $1400 $350 for shipping, Is that a good deal, and does anyone know if its legit?
Anyways..... I'm 16, I have a computer job that pays $10/hrs, I make about 230 a week, becuz i'm still in high school... So i can't really go all out on my engine. Becuz i won't be able to afford it. My brothers was a cretifed mechanic so hes going to be helping me with the labor.
I'm going to build a custom t3 turbo setup, with all the good stuff... Thats gonna cost about $1200.
So thats $2950, for the engine and turbo setup.
So how much boost should i boost it Stock?
What can I do , so I can Rev the engine higher, Can i get a better Oil Pump, Water pump, and Etc to make it rev higher than stock.
And when I save another 1-2g's should I do a LS/Vtec, or build the block, and head. How much would it cost to resleeve the block or bore it too 2.0l? and where can i get it done at?
Ok dude... a few things.
#1. DON'T half-ass it on a turbo setup. it wont last for shit, and you will go boom.
#2. the LS doesn't rev high. period. with turbo, you don't need to rev high- you have power through out a nice wide band thanks to the LS tranny's gearing.
#3. thats kinda pricey. i paid $1200 shipped to my door for a 94 LS with 80k on it. depending on year/miles, id say its ok. but shipping- it doesn't cost 350 to ship a motor. 150 tops. be aware of that.
#4. how much boost? read the FAQ forum- it depends on the actual turbo... there are hundreds of T3's, and all flow different CFM's. that said, under 7 psi is as high as i would go on a moderate turbo (such as one fronm the drag gen 3 kit) on stock internals.
#5. Don't half-ass the tuning part of it. Hondata.com owns... but if you can't afford it, you at least need injectors, fmu, pump, air/fuel guage, fuel pressure riser, and an v-afc at minimum.
#6. Ls/vtec is gay with turbo. pick one or the other- It costs at least 3 grand for a VTEC conversion on an ls block- done properly.
#7. Going turbo is NOT cheap. Being 16, i would say build the motor with the money you were planning on spending on the turbo kit. And save until you can afford a real turbo set up. but that's just my opinion.
#8. Stay here and do a lot of research before you buy anything. you'll thank us in the long run
Well , You are right, The engine is Shipped directly from japan, with 30-40k,
So its JDM, not USDM.. Is there a differences? except for the jdm being rhd... and has 150hp
Building a NA, isn't what i'm plan on doing..... I've been around this alot, im not some noob that watches tf&f, I've being researching about this since My friend got me into this import scene when I was 14....
I like the Idea oh Turbo... Becz I just love the sound of a BOV... I was thinking of getting a garret t3 turbo off ebay., im not sure of the CFM...
I know that I need the FMC, But I also wanna know if I upgrade the oil pump, cuz the engine doesn't get enough oil.....
All I know, is that 1st Im going to buy either a GSR or LS, (i still can't make up my Mind) .... 2nd I'm going to build a turbo kit... 3rd drop the compression Ratio, to about 9.1 pistons and crower rods... and maybe a block guard....and some other stuff i don't know yet..... I like the sound of bore to 2.0 and resleeving it, but how much would that cost? Would I have to build the head too? Why is the LS/VTEC bad for turbo, Wouldn't vtec be an advantage? and doesn't reving high get u more hp?
if you bore, don't turbo it. you only weaken the sleeves.
if you want to boost, i suggest the LS. its 2000 cheaper than a gsr... use that money to get it re-sleaved. if you DO get it resleaved, then a 2.0 is fine, because the sleeves are much stronger.
I'[ll post more later- i gotta get going right now
Look at the pictures I posted on page one of this thread... one is a stock B20 sleeve, one is a resleeved 2.0 setup. Imagine a B18 with the same sleeve thickness as the B20 (not sure if it is, but it'll probably be close), then take away 1.5mm on each side... and think of how thin the walls will be at that point. That resleeved block has some really thick metal in there, so it'll definitely hold more stress than a 1.8L block bored out to 2.0L.