what engine is best for boost?

engine swap

  • h22a

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • b16a2

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • k20

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • b

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    31

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noone drivers around max boost daily,

thats retarded. run 6 psi saily, and fuckin who cares at the track or at the races.

people who do dumb shit like that are the people who get other people killed.

thunb down to retards
 
Quoted post[/post]]
noone drivers around max boost daily,

thats retarded. run 6 psi saily, and fuckin who cares at the track or at the races.

people who do dumb shit like that are the people who get other people killed.

thunb down to retards


Either we're dealing with DrunkRex, or he's working with really fat fingers.

Hell, there is a kid down here using some D16 variant in his Civic Coupe, using Apexi Power FC
(not the hack) as management and proudly carrying a 13.4xx timeslip in his wallet. It's possible from any of those angles, and a lot of what you hear in this will be on personal bias (I still say to hell with the H-series :mrgreen:).
 
lol i agree with hotrex^ if you have a d in there already why not build the shit out of it and go from there....


or if you must swap it out you can hit 350 on a built ls, helluva lot cheaper than a b18c and will give you alot more of your budget to build, boost, and get it properly tuned....
 
and b16a swaps are even cheaper.

vtec, near perfect r/s ratio prime for a ls block later. better tranny

b16 is the best swap choice.

but the cheaPEAT ROUTE FOR GOOD HP IS A BUILT d series
 
' date='Nov 29 2005, 11:57 PM' post='620785']
Quoted post[/post]]
only lookin for 350 hp 300ftlbs, thats plenty for me, its gonna be my daily driver :laugh:


Don't touch an H series, they are unbalanced as hell, heavy, inefficent, and have lousey-ass ringlands.

<--- Personal Experience
The H22 stock is not the best choice, but as was said if you change the sleeves, pistons ect ect, it's just as good as the others.
 
Quoted post[/post]]
but, thats so not the best choice for 350 hp....


true enough, and when he said crome for 150 bucks, yeah thats true, but chances are you dont have all the other mods to run crome and dont have a wideband, so tack on another 400 bucks to that too.


kids think 5 grand is so much money....5 grand is penuts in the real world.


IMO its up in the air of B18C or B16a2. both solid fuckin motors! do it right and have fun.

and yes 300 plus hp on any front wheel drive street car is kinda shitty IMO.
now lets start adding tires and shit to this 5 grand budget!


id say rethink this, take it all into account, and i mean ALL and id consider rethinking your HP goal that is realistic with your budget! :)
 
they are right about 300HP on a FWD street car. My buddy's SRT-4 is pushing close to 350 (18psi) but he runs it at 6 or 7 daily. If you want a DD 350 HP FWD, your gonna hate it. NO TRACTION EVER!
 
Has any one here swaped a car. $5000 is a very low budget. I have 3500+ in my b16a swap with cheap ass intake and exhaust. With a good 145 WHP. That would leave me 1500 to get to 350 WHP. 350-145=205. BUAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. You fuckers crack me up.
 
thats the thing.... i built my d16a1 turbo kit, im makein 190 hp 173 ftlbs to the wheels @10 psi. k26 audi turbo (similar to a .48/.63 T3) Including the motor rebuild kit turbo fmic bov injectors chipping the ecu myself 2.5 inch d/p (soon 3") Its all custom built, i built the exhuast manifold out of handrail metal, cost me about 15 dollars. Cut the all flanges myself.


for less than $2k
 
Personally Im for the B18B. Take an LS and put the B16 head on it and make the LS/VTEC some good eagle rods, je pistons and arp rod and head studs with a multi layer headgasket and good GT35R turbo and you should obtain your 350 and more hp range but not within your $5000 budget. This I dont see happening unless you buy alot of used parts and do all the work your self
 
WHAT ABOUT d series motors ,eg d15b vtec,can that be turboed to say 250 hp,i've got a d - series in my car
hotrex qoutes its the cheapest motor to build
 
D's are easy to build - to about 180hp. To go above 220-240 you'll need good fuel tuning and new rods. 200-220 is acheivable with a good HG, studs and awsome tuning (which is what I'll be shooting for this summer). Anything over that and you might snap a rod at any given moment.

Stick with a B-series if you want anything over 250hp.
 
Quoted post[/post]]
D's are easy to build - to about 180hp. To go above 220-240 you'll need good fuel tuning and new rods. 200-220 is acheivable with a good HG, studs and awsome tuning (which is what I'll be shooting for this summer). Anything over that and you might snap a rod at any given moment.

Stick with a B-series if you want anything over 250hp.


Im with hotrex on this one.

Build the D, its the best route to save money and do it reliably.
 
I have a d16y8 my daily driver that I put about $4000 into for rods, pistons, hg, arp studs, turbo kit, and tuning. Dynoed at 230whp 200ftq at 10psi. I have recently had the block sleeved and I am now in the process of having it rebuilt to see what I can get out of it. For me the D was the best option for the money.

But if I were to swap it and turbo another motor it would be the b18b (unless I got a smoking deal on a gsr motor). I have seen a local car with ls motor, forged internals and ported head put down 345whp and it too is a daily driver.
 
ls swap=900 at the most b16 or gsr head =600 some rods= 400 pistons =400 (keep 9:1 comp) rest of the cash to build it and get all the other parts you need. then save money for your boost.
 
i have a jus rebuilt b16a head for sale if anyone is interested.

1700 miles on a complete rebuild
and is currentyl on my 389whp b16a

i just got a fully built head, so its coming off.
 
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