daveholiday
Do work
I know I realized that I was doing it wrong, thats why I kept getting super low compressions, and when I realized I was doing it wrong, I did it right and now I'm getting the right compression estimates. z6=9.95:1 and y8=10.3:1
1990 CRX Si Build thread
- Thread starter daveholiday
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daveholiday
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pictures of new stuff
boost guage
downpipe
exaust manifold
z6 head
p28 ecu with crome chipping
vtec valve cover
painted w/ matched intake manifold
lol evo anyone?
I actually downloaded a couple sound clips, just so I could listen to it.
Thats all the pics I have for now, the only thing I need is the lower charge piping, which I'm getting this weekend, and progress will start a week from Friday.
boost guage
downpipe
exaust manifold
z6 head
p28 ecu with crome chipping
vtec valve cover
painted w/ matched intake manifold
lol evo anyone?
I actually downloaded a couple sound clips, just so I could listen to it.
Thats all the pics I have for now, the only thing I need is the lower charge piping, which I'm getting this weekend, and progress will start a week from Friday.
that valve cover looks just like the one that i did..
https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/how-paint-valve-cover-86106/
https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/how-paint-valve-cover-86106/
daveholiday
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maybe I should give you credit then?
I knew how to paint a valve cover before coming to this site, but figured I'd just read through all the stuff anyway, saw that, and thought it looked real nice gold with the black lettering. I didn't think you had the colors copywritten lol, but I do admit that I got the idea of the colors from your guide
except i think you used a better gold paint, yours looks much nicer
daveholiday
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yeah, I'm real big on dress up I guess you could say, I love all that shit so thats what I do a lot of, I'm pretty unbasic lol.
I'd buy it if I had a b16, looks great. My brother has one though, so how much anyway? he may be interested
I'd buy it if I had a b16, looks great. My brother has one though, so how much anyway? he may be interested
daveholiday
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I'll let him know, I know he has to adjust a couple things because his hood is rubbing his valve cover a little
daveholiday
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so I have everything except for the final pieces of my charge pipe. I started building my head again, and I have a couple questions.
Does anyone know how different the rocker assemblies for a z6 and a y8 head are, if different at all? I have the y8 one all put together again from when I planned on using it, and I'd like to just slap that on, but I don't know if it'll work right.
Also, as far as intake manifolds, they're pretty much the same as far as compatibility, I have one from a 90 civic dx I believe, but it looks just like the one on my rex with the a6, and it also looks just like the one that came on the z6 head
thanks
Does anyone know how different the rocker assemblies for a z6 and a y8 head are, if different at all? I have the y8 one all put together again from when I planned on using it, and I'd like to just slap that on, but I don't know if it'll work right.
Also, as far as intake manifolds, they're pretty much the same as far as compatibility, I have one from a 90 civic dx I believe, but it looks just like the one on my rex with the a6, and it also looks just like the one that came on the z6 head
thanks
daveholiday
Do work
back from the dead, I bought a beater car and in the same day started ripping into the rex. There's been a huge change of plans though, and as of now, I'm just doing a mini-me swap into the rex.
There's a bolt though, on the bottom side and in the center of the intake manifold, how are you supposed to reach it? there's a slight metal lip in front of it so you can't really reach it with a open-end, and sockets are super difficult. Any suggestions?
There's a bolt though, on the bottom side and in the center of the intake manifold, how are you supposed to reach it? there's a slight metal lip in front of it so you can't really reach it with a open-end, and sockets are super difficult. Any suggestions?
Thelostnet
New Member
intake manifold bolt...
I know which bolt you speak of. It's a bitch.
I used a u-joint socket extension and some swearing to get it off. Put it on with the engine out of the car which was way easier. I can't think of any reason you wouldn't be able to just remove the head with the intake manifold attached to it and get the bolt off out of the car.
I'm about to start a similar project with a D16 block. Complete teardown, proper rebuild and mate it with a z6 or y8 head. Funny part is that I don't have a car to put it in yet. Might pick up a rex, they look fun.
Good luck!
thelostnet
I know which bolt you speak of. It's a bitch.
I used a u-joint socket extension and some swearing to get it off. Put it on with the engine out of the car which was way easier. I can't think of any reason you wouldn't be able to just remove the head with the intake manifold attached to it and get the bolt off out of the car.
I'm about to start a similar project with a D16 block. Complete teardown, proper rebuild and mate it with a z6 or y8 head. Funny part is that I don't have a car to put it in yet. Might pick up a rex, they look fun.
Good luck!
thelostnet
daveholiday
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yeah I couldn't figure out why the intake manifold wouldn't come off, because that was my original plan. i ended up removing the alternator bracket and very painfully slowly using an open ended to get it off. I didn't realize that there was a bracket on the back of the intake manifold holding it to the chassis though, and thats why it wouldn't come off with the head. BUT, I got the head off, and now I'm working on getting the timing belt off. Is the only was to get it off, take the right motor mount off? I have to take all that plastic shit off but it seems like I have to take the motor mount to get that and my timing belt off. Blahh. Other than that, its going very well.
Thelostnet
New Member
Might want to set the crank and cam to TDC (top dead center) before pulling the timing belt off. I suppose it doesn't matter as long as they don't get moved at all before the new timing belt goes on. You did get a new timing belt and water pump right?
daveholiday
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yes I did. The head is off, will it be any harder to set it to TDC?
also, I was told this by a guy doing the same swap, can anyone else find any truth in it?
I have a new waterpump, y8 headgasket, etc. I did get the timing belt off the d15, and a new cam gear, and have it currently adjusted to advance 4.5 degrees. Can anyone else verify this?
daveholiday
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Yup, motor mount and crank pulley. Have fun
and I just noticed this, how are you supposed to take the crank pulley off? I haven't looked at it more because I havent been that far yet, are there multiple bolts or something holding it?
Thelostnet
New Member
I used a 6' breaker bar. Might be trickier with the engine still in the car. It's just the one bolt holding the crank pulley on. Makes a terrible noise like your breaking something when it comes loose.
WD-40 or similar can help some, but mostly you need leverage. Sometimes an impact wrench can do it, though not sure if you can get in there with one. Can you get to it through the wheel well?
daveholiday
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yeah, I can get to it through the wheel well or from the side, I lost my breaker bar so i've been using a piece of 6.5 foot pvc pipe for leverage, which has worked well so far. What about the other stuff, heard any truth to it?
I'm actually getting ready to do this, but I assume that that one bolt is also the one used to turn your crank to set it to TDC, so I ask this now, what is the best way to set it to TDC, then remove it without unsetting it? I was thinking of setting it, making a mark at the top of the crank pulley, taking it off, so that when I put it back on, say it does unset it when I take it off, I can put the pulley on with the mark up, and re-set it. also what are the torque specs for it?
I'm actually getting ready to do this, but I assume that that one bolt is also the one used to turn your crank to set it to TDC, so I ask this now, what is the best way to set it to TDC, then remove it without unsetting it? I was thinking of setting it, making a mark at the top of the crank pulley, taking it off, so that when I put it back on, say it does unset it when I take it off, I can put the pulley on with the mark up, and re-set it. also what are the torque specs for it?
daveholiday
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alright, well, I got the top dead center crap down, but I can't get the crank pulley off. Should I put the head back on, just so that to turn the crank pulley its also turning the rest of the motor or is there a better way since the head is off? The PVC is too big to fit in the engine bay, so I'm gonna try an extension out of the wheel well and pvc it. its bedtime though. goodnight
