Brads EJ1 Coupe
- Thread starter GlassHeadlights
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You're right - but, in this case we must maintain perspective. What we have now is actually an improvement.
This is a wretched abortion of an exhaust system: (The GhettoMaster UpYoassMutha___ka)
YouTube - Dynomax Super Turbo Straight Piped LS Powered CRX !
So you see, in the grand scheme of things it's a step in the right direction!
The sound of that thing from 1:23 on out is priceless - probably how John Force got his start.(I know, I know I took a cheap shot here Brad - but, you only specified no more Gay Jokes - didn't mention the GM Exhaust system in the restriction so I figured I could work it in one more time......)
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dc4dude
Member
hey brad, before you go blowing your hard earned cash on a set of coilovers, take it from me (no homo) i have tried all types of combinations from skunk2 springs on oem shocks, skunk2 shocks and springs, cut springs, tanabe springs on dropzone shocks (BIG MISTAKE!!) emusa coilovers... the list goes on.... then i finally just bough a used set of oem type r springs and struts, complete with control arms... and it is the best setup i have had so far!!! give the type r's a try dude. its cheaper and the quality of thehonda parts will outlast any coilover setup you will get. (or can afford, cuz lets face it, shit's expensive!) thats just my experience anyway... down the road i might go with tokico struts when these wear out...
My $0.02 on cheap lowering options.
I been rocking Neuspeed Race Springs for over 14 years and they sit fine even with my K-swap. No more Neuspeed (from my knowledge) but H&R and the same springs and they can be bought for roughly $200. Not adjustable but they sit lower than Eibach springs. I think the lowest Eibach's are 1.7-1.8" but my race springs are 2.25". Although it would be smart to run camber kits so you don't go through tires so fast. Decent shocks are a smart buy but you can tear the stock ones up first and get aftermarket shocks later....at least thats what I did lol. If you don't wanna be that low.....get something higher (like Eibach) which could also alleviate the need for a camber kit. Decent Coilovers are $600-1200 and that price can be scary in comparison to other options that are not adjustable.
People talk about spring rates and I can agree with a desire to have a stiffer front with a swap but I also think its not totally necessary if you go with a reputable spring set up. Just run what they are rate for the D-series motor. If its possible to get a stiffer spring for the same price......do it.
Cheapest and least appealing is the cut spring. But all it takes is time and a cut off wheel. You will be more bouncy than an aftermarket spring. If you go this way.....just make sure you cut dead coils only. I would say 1.5-2 coils could be cut. If I was to do it....it would be temporary and changed soon as funds are available.
I been rocking Neuspeed Race Springs for over 14 years and they sit fine even with my K-swap. No more Neuspeed (from my knowledge) but H&R and the same springs and they can be bought for roughly $200. Not adjustable but they sit lower than Eibach springs. I think the lowest Eibach's are 1.7-1.8" but my race springs are 2.25". Although it would be smart to run camber kits so you don't go through tires so fast. Decent shocks are a smart buy but you can tear the stock ones up first and get aftermarket shocks later....at least thats what I did lol. If you don't wanna be that low.....get something higher (like Eibach) which could also alleviate the need for a camber kit. Decent Coilovers are $600-1200 and that price can be scary in comparison to other options that are not adjustable.
People talk about spring rates and I can agree with a desire to have a stiffer front with a swap but I also think its not totally necessary if you go with a reputable spring set up. Just run what they are rate for the D-series motor. If its possible to get a stiffer spring for the same price......do it.
Cheapest and least appealing is the cut spring. But all it takes is time and a cut off wheel. You will be more bouncy than an aftermarket spring. If you go this way.....just make sure you cut dead coils only. I would say 1.5-2 coils could be cut. If I was to do it....it would be temporary and changed soon as funds are available.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
I have a spare set now so I'm sure I'll try something.
One of my buddies got hooked up with a Japanese exporter and he sent us stickers. We're the first in North America to have these... Yup quite random.
I got the head torn down and installed the new LMAs. It pretty much needs a whole gasket set but for a high mileage motor its in clean shape. It looks like it's been serviced at the dealer it's whole life too.
One of my buddies got hooked up with a Japanese exporter and he sent us stickers. We're the first in North America to have these... Yup quite random.
I got the head torn down and installed the new LMAs. It pretty much needs a whole gasket set but for a high mileage motor its in clean shape. It looks like it's been serviced at the dealer it's whole life too.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
The ITR suspension sounds convincing but id rather have adjustable suspension one day. Its really worth the wate imho.
For $150 I can get a JDM ITR rear sway, rear shocks and LCAs from Total JDM.
For $150 I can get a JDM ITR rear sway, rear shocks and LCAs from Total JDM.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Right. Makes sence. I just love how interchangeable these cars are.
I'm kinda lost on the motor mounts though. Do I use the integra aluminum mount then civic mounts for the rest?
I'm kinda lost on the motor mounts though. Do I use the integra aluminum mount then civic mounts for the rest?
Right. Makes sence. I just love how interchangeable these cars are.
I'm kinda lost on the motor mounts though. Do I use the integra aluminum mount then civic mounts for the rest?
Glad you made a decision on the suspension. I couldn't wait but I hate rolling around at stock height
You can use all the Integra mounts if you want but the only one you must use is the rear transmission mount (attaches at trans and goes near steering unit)
If you run a ITR sway......you should get a subframe brace.....some people think a tie bar (i.e. Beaks) will serve the same purpose but I disagree based on the physics involved. I have a GSR sway with no brace and haven't had problems with it but the ITR is considerably larger
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Yep I got it then put it away for now. And what retainers do you mean?
I apologize in advance .. ghetto content below.
I apologize in advance .. ghetto content below.
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This picture here, the retainers look damaged. Maybe its just the photo?
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