D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?

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The iat does not go on the intake pipe, atleast for odb1 honda's. There should be a sensor on the intakr manifold. That sucks about the drain plug. As a temp. fix, id put some silicone sealant on the threads to help it out.

I'll probably get the weakest grade Loctite and put some on there then break it loose whenever I gotta change oil again. When I left early my shop teacher said he was looking for an oversized bolt for it or something.

What if I used a rubber washer instead of copper?
 
remember loctite isn't a sealer. If you want to stop a leak, use some form of gasket maker. The rubber washer sounds like an idea... good luck!

I will be out of town for a few days, so I won't be able to reply to any posts.
 
I will be out of town for a few days, so I won't be able to reply to any posts.

Hopefully my problem should be fixed within the next few days so you don't have anything to say on this thread except "FINALLY!" lol!

Because I'm thinking since I'm getting both the IAT AND the IACV codes...I mean what are the odds that there's a problem with BOTH sensors I probably just mixed plugs I'll try that tomorrow then hopefully just have a couple leaks and the vtec wiring to deal with.
 
heres the IAT SENSOR....

SHOULD BE ON THE LOWER PART OF THE INTAKE MANI

FSCN04940154.jpg
 
On both my d and b series its held on by 2 12mm bolts
 
Those 2 electrical plugs from the back of the IM? My shop teacher told me the IAT is supposed to be in the air intake pipe when I took my car to the shop an hour ago. I'll check that for sure tomorrow I couldn't do it today.

And I've got more problems...the oil pan is leaking and it's the second washer I've been thru and it feels like the drain bolt is stripped.

There's a coolant leak coming from probably the same hose where it clamps onto the block.

SERIOUS problem - Front right brake caliper upper bolt is missing...the caliper is swung over to the front. I lost control driving to the shop. It shouldn't have happened there's this wide turn I usually take at 40 mph+ in my mom's Taurus (heavier, with no problems on that turn) and I took it at under 40 in my Civic and spun out I tried turning the other way to power slide but my tires are real bad so I ended up facing the guy that was behind me..Backed up, turned around, and finished my way to the shop driving very slow and then found out my caliper bolt is missing.

Also I got both Vtec codes...probably because my oil is drained almost to the 1st hole on the stick but I know for sure the oil pressure sensor is wired up but not the solenoid. Thanks a lot for your help!

BY THE LOOKS OF WHAT YOU WROTE HERE YOU DIDNT SEEM TO KNOW WHERE IT WENT
 
AHHH....I SEEE... does your shop teacher know anything bout imports? or just big body chevys... cause my automotive teacher in college didnt know a damn thing really..unless it was a carburated 350 big block. and you cant see bolts for the iacv? lol i remember you couldnt find the ecu either... this swap shoulda been done and over with like a month ago.

no offense dude im no pro myself but damn
 
I agree with HATCHET_HONDA. This is the same kid that said he was going to leave the slave cylinder hooked up and just unbolt it from the tranny because bleeding it sounded hard. I applaud your efforts but you should have spent a little more time familiarizing yourself with your car and other basic principles before you just dove in. And stop listening to your shop teacher. He sounds like a fu*kin goober.
 
Lol yea he's kinda dumb with anything other than domestics. He thought the ecu test wires were on the drivers side. I've been doing most of it myself and glad cause I've learned a lot. I found those iacv and iat sensor bolts they're both probably bad.

I tried switching plugs, spraying with carb cleaner, reset the ecu each test, code 14 disapeared and came back, I'm not sure what to do with it since I went to the service manual and it says I need a special Honda tool my shop teacher doesn't have.

And for the slave cylinder, yea, I just left it aside so what it's a good cylinder. The swap itself was easy. '

Anyway I'll probably end up taking my car to a real shop and get the iacv and iat serviced so it can be all said n done and tell them I'll take care of the vtec codes myself. Because I'm tired of messing with them and trying to fix the fuckin coolant leak and my oil drain plug leak. Vtec I'll wire that in myself.

Which is strange because the vtec solenoid code disappeared for a while too, then came back.

That's how I learn. I usually dive in over my head and learn the hard way.
 
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Just thought I'd give yall another update on my progress:

I've ordered the IACV and IAT sensor brand new from eBay so they should be arriving by the end of the week. In the meantime, I'll be taking my car to Pepboys to get the leaks fixed simply because I don't feel like fuckin with them. And tearing apart and rebuilding the old d15b7 my shop teacher made me do as a project in his class since there's usually nothing else to do but bookwork LOL. He says he's got plans to drop it into some kind of small truck.
 
Just thought I'd give yall another update on my progress:

I've ordered the IACV and IAT sensor brand new from eBay so they should be arriving by the end of the week. In the meantime, I'll be taking my car to Pepboys to get the leaks fixed simply because I don't feel like fuckin with them. And tearing apart and rebuilding the old d15b7 my shop teacher made me do as a project in his class since there's usually nothing else to do but bookwork LOL. He says he's got plans to drop it into some kind of small truck.

SMALL TRUCK??? WTF??? PEPBOYS?? I THOUGHT THAT WAS AN AUTOPARTS STORE...NOT A REPAIR SHOP
 
HATCHET: Yea, Pepboys does full service including engine swaps if you feel like wasting over $3,000. And yea that's what my teacher said he wants to put it in a damn truck.

99sidude: Yea I cleaned it out and I thought it worked but then the code kept disappearing and reappearing so I'm waiting on both sensors in the mail still.

In the meantime I found a junkyard with a good 5th gen EX coupe full of shit I've been takin out including the gauge cluster with the tach, that brake caliper bolt which I just fixed earlier, spare fuses, and the damper fork bolts that I'll be coming back for tomorrow. I'm probably gonna take 2 of the wheels for spares also since they have decent tires on them and I don't have any spares right now. I even bought some tools of my own a beginner mechanics tool box with a load of metric and us wrenches, sockets, ratchets, etc. along with a 2 1/2 ton hydraulic jack and 2 2 ton jack stands so I don't have to go to the school every time I feel like workin on my car. The brand is Stanley and I almost broke the ratchet taking out the caliper bolt, so the next tools I get will be nothing but Snap-on. Only reason I settled for these is cause money's tight and I had a Walmart gift card from Christmas laying around haha.
 
Ever heard of harbor freight tools? Its cheap as fuck, but works. I'm broke at the moment so thats where I get my tools.
 
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