D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?

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hells yeah! i got my racing jack and my cherry picker from there..decent tools for the price

Its hit or miss with them though... I recently got a fuel pressure tester kit from them, and the guage leaked as soon as I got it.
 
I got one of my sensors today, my mom's at the post office picking it up for me, still waiting on the other one. After I put them on, I'm gonna fill up the fluids and take it in to get the leaks fixed. Then I'll order that vtec subharness from Rywire and wire that up and my swap should be completely done with after that :D.
 
Well SURPRISE SURPRISE both sensors were there! Within 10 minutes I opened them and had them installed! But I got coolant in the IAT sensor plug so I cleaned it and I'll try it out in the next hour or so and see if my codes are gone.

The old IAT sensor was burnt to a crisp.
 
Alright so I went out there and gave it a try plugged in the sensors and the code 14 (iacv) is gone. But I don't know how the IAT code 10 is still there..the sensor looks great compared to the old black crispy one that still had the metal intact. There's battery voltage.

So I got a question. At first the code sequence was like this from the first time the light came on after turning the key: Long, Long short short short short, long long short, long long short short. That's 10, 14, 21, 22, but now it's 10, 22. That's all I got now but I don't know if that first long one counts because I've heard that the light comes on first and THEN starts flashing codes...So does that mean the first long one just startes the sequence before the code 22 or is it a 10, 22?

I wasn't sure so I bought the IAT sensor anyway for code 10 but I may not have even had it.
 
idk if the light comes on first or not before it starts checking codes. Just hold the key in the on pos. with the wires jumped and let it cycle through all the codes a few times. If it doesnt repeat that first Long, then it doesnt mean anything, if it does, well then it does mean something.
 
Damn, it does repeat the long one. But I put on a new sensor...so why would it still be doing that?

I'm gonna grab the volt meter real quick and make sure it's getting voltage cause I MIGHT have tested the iacv instead, but i'll be right back with the results :).
 
There's voltage alright, turns out I forgot to reset the ecu LOL. So now the only code showing up is 22, Vtec oil pressure which I'll wire up soon, and tomorrow the leaks are going to be fixed. Then get the front bumper/hood/left headlight and corner light realigned and see if I can't get the frame bent back into place.

I should've checked it over better when I bought it because the guy lied and told me it was never wrecked.
 
Yea the bumper/headlight alignment on the left side is barely noticeable but enough to make you wanna fix it. Then the frame alignment, that's gonna be a bitch. Also the hood needs to be realigned it looks like someone tried to pry it open with a screwdriver on the left side. And the right side sets a little too high because of the bent frame so the radiator's not mounted low enough I had to make rubber bushings for a ghetto mount but it gets the job done for now :).
 
Fucked? Lol it's far from it :). Here's a list of ALL problems:

Vtec needs to be wired
front frame is bent slightly
hood/front bumper/left headlight slightly misaligned
coolant and oil leaking (but getting fixed very soon, then the car will be driveable)
car's not registered, haven't transferred title yet, no insurance, not inspected
horn doesn't work (i have an airhorn)

Those are just the biggest issues for me, not too bad.
Then there's:

Turn signal light bulb needs to be replaced
both kick panels in the front need to be reinstalled
no radio installed
left z3 fender vent fell off :( gonna bondo that bitch and the right one
misc. rice parts to take off except the fenders they're cool :)
windshield has a small crack

Within a month the first major problems will all be fixed and that's good enough for me.
 
thats not bad... its fixable. I'm in the same boat. Theres a bunch of little shit I need to take care of. Its just not going to happen till im working again in the summer.
 
I almost feel like I wasted the effort swapping in the d15b, but I had to get a running motor quick. The only thing that sucks is that it's so unique it's not like a z6 or B-series with aftermarket internals so I doubt I'd be able to build it without paying an arm and a leg to a machine shop. I'm not sure if I'll boost this or save up for a B16.
 
I'd boost it, if thats where you want to go in the future. Theres alot to learn when it comes with boosting a non-turbo car, and it would be better to learn the lessons the hard way on a motor that is alot cheaper to blow than a b series.
 
If I did that then I can always just switch manifolds and turbocharge a B-series right?
 
switching wouldn't be too bad. You would have to modify the charge piping and the downpipe to fit. And you'd need to re-tune.
 
That reminds me after the code 14 (iacv) went away I started it for just 4 seconds (only short time because oil's leaking fast) and the idle was still a tad jumpy. I'll have to fill the oil and take it in see how it does if it still does that then my last guess would have to be the timing. I don't see what else could be causing it. I'm hoping it just has to break in.

By the way I checked out your build that shit is great :thumbsup:. I didn't even bother taking mine apart I just dropped it in. How's Hondata for tuning?
 
Get the timing done... thats the most obvious problem for a jumpy idle. Hondata is great for tuning. I'm not confident enough to fully street tune it myself, but its nice for datalogging on the laptop. It will pay for itself when I finally get it fine tuned.
 
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