Ian's build

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

id re-read ARP's instructions. my instructions say because of expansion rate of Al (what our blocks are made of), to torque to 65, not 70. and i put the studs in hand tight yes, but i used an allen key to just seat them in, nothing crazy, its probably like 2 ftlbs or something.

and yea my tooth is broken. im not using that sensor so i dont really care, lol.
 
after re reading them i see that now, it is odd that it says a. to tighten them to 70 if using arp lube and then b. 65 ft like you said. i guess the instructions are universal for all applications. oh well mine is a little extra tight i guess.

i was scared for a few days about the tooth wondering if it may throw something off balance or not but i figured it would be fine and it has been.
 
vtecsir1 @ May 1 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
after re reading them i see that now, it is odd that it says a. to tighten them to 70 if using arp lube and then b. 65 ft like you said. i guess the instructions are universal for all applications. oh well mine is a little extra tight i guess.

i was scared for a few days about the tooth wondering if it may throw something off balance or not but i figured it would be fine and it has been.
Click to expand...
yea i was a little worried about balance and stuff too, but i dont think it will be an issue
 
finished some little odds and ends on the shortblock.

i modded the prelude nipples just like endyn does. i just JB welded some copper pipe, its 3/8" pipe. probably should have went with the 1/2" but oh well, 3/8 will work.
gallery_1242_496_173454.jpg

and you can see it protruding in the block. best pic i could get since i already had them installed.
gallery_1242_496_160414.jpg


basically the reason for doing this is to help prevent excess oil from being pushed out these holes. the purpose of using the joints is to vent crankcase pressure, but i want to relieve to pressure without puking oil out. having the protrusion will help this since only free vapor will be allowed to be pushed through the hole. without the protruding tube, oil on the walls could be pushed out.

also in the first pic you may notice some JB weld. well while working on it i discovered a nice crack. so i JB welded it up. and yea i know i shoved a NPT fitting in a BSPT hole. the previous owner did the same and fucked the threads up for me. i used plenty of yellow teflon so it should seal up ok.... i hope.

finished :)

gallery_1242_496_64902.jpg
 
nice, I still dont understand the need for the bronze fitting?

I know you want my nice new shiny half shaft bolts I have forsale to complete your bling back there :mrgreen:
 
the brass fitting? where the oil pressure switch used to be? thats for my oil pressure guage. gonna have a line comming out to the sender.
 
Coming along nice, Ian. I might just road trip out there so we can swap rides and compare.
 
got the longblock pretty much done. no assembly pics cause my camera is fucked but i borrowed my brothers for the final pics

gallery_1242_496_304789.jpg

gallery_1242_496_90466.jpg

gallery_1242_496_13324.jpg


getting closer...
 
looking nice...cant wait for an in car vid...lol
 
one thing that kinda pissed me off is why honda uses 30 FUCKING BOLTS to hold the cams in place. the crank only has like 10, lol. was really the only thing that annoyed me, lol.
 
You almost never take out the crank, so you can have a simpler bolt pattern to hold it in with a more complex fixture. The cams have to come out every now and then. :)
 
i would think it would be the other way around then? i dunno. oh well i have some more parts comming from honda so it will be complete soon :). look out for the install posts :). i also installed the guages (oil temp/press, water temp. on page 1) and it looks clean. i dindt wire them up yet but i installed them lol.

parts ordered from honda:

timing belt
lower timing cover (since obd2 is different)
cover for behind cam gears
rubber seals for respective covers
misc bolts

pics soon
 
so are you breaking this thing in on a dyno? I'd hate to build something like that only to find that the rings did not seal properly.
 
I dont know if you have your own method but I let my motor run with a giant fan in front of it at idle until it reached operating temp, after that I waited an additional 10 mins looking for leaks or other problems before even reving the motor at all. I gradually reved the motor and then took it for a few spins, then did a few hard pulls later in the day. My parts werent brand new like yours though so your break in could be totally different. I just thought I would offer my method. Good luck and cant wait for more progress of the best hondswap build since B's :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

bagsofcole
H22 Mild Build - Piston Choice
Replies
1
Views
692
Briansol
Briansol
Briansol
Cheap Windows 11 Pro
Replies
4
Views
419
phunky.buddha
phunky.buddha
B
Integra B20b build
Replies
3
Views
639
phunky.buddha
phunky.buddha
Rfarver@48
Camshaft Bearing Cap Failure
Replies
1
Views
1K
Briansol
Briansol
cheese9988
Air in coolant system
Replies
7
Views
587
phunky.buddha
phunky.buddha
Back
Top