DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
And also the rotors I got are OEM size rotors that are cross drilled and slotted so it will be lighter than stock and basically a weight reduction mod. But who knows how effective it will be until I use them
JDM B20Vtec Build
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dilbeckskate
infamous
no is not a weight reduction mod lol and they are going to be less effective than a stock rotor but its ok you wont notice a difference and will look flashy
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
Ok do I really have to point out that I was being sarcastic becuz of what the other guy said? I know its not a weight reduction mod cmon man, I was obviously joking, next time I will state that its a joke to be clear.
My only point is that I've already purchased them so I'm ganna use them. If they fail or break then thats what happens. I only paid $45.00 for the rotors. No big deal. My stock rotors are perfectly fine so I can keep those as a backup just in case.
If I notice a very poor difference in performance then I will put my stock rotors back on.
I have done some research on the topic of slotted and cross drilled rotors and the only benefits gained by them other than looks is that if the rotors were properly designed and made they can help with reduced stopped distance.
To give an example:
Ok, durability, cooling, and more grip is all good, but that is not what is important. The important fact is that performance rotors will reduce stopping distance. Let say your vehicle takes 30 feet to come to a stop with stock rotors. Then, let's say a set of good high performance rotors will give you a performance gain of 30%. In 30 feet that will be a difference of 9 feet. Those 9 feet can be the difference of your front bumper not slamming into the rear bumper of the car in front of you.
Now this of course assumes that its a performance rotor that has been properly sized, designed and made properly.
Now do I know if mine were or not I am not completely sure but I will find out once I use them and then I will share my experience at that point.
My only point is that I've already purchased them so I'm ganna use them. If they fail or break then thats what happens. I only paid $45.00 for the rotors. No big deal. My stock rotors are perfectly fine so I can keep those as a backup just in case.
If I notice a very poor difference in performance then I will put my stock rotors back on.
I have done some research on the topic of slotted and cross drilled rotors and the only benefits gained by them other than looks is that if the rotors were properly designed and made they can help with reduced stopped distance.
To give an example:
Ok, durability, cooling, and more grip is all good, but that is not what is important. The important fact is that performance rotors will reduce stopping distance. Let say your vehicle takes 30 feet to come to a stop with stock rotors. Then, let's say a set of good high performance rotors will give you a performance gain of 30%. In 30 feet that will be a difference of 9 feet. Those 9 feet can be the difference of your front bumper not slamming into the rear bumper of the car in front of you.
Now this of course assumes that its a performance rotor that has been properly sized, designed and made properly.
Now do I know if mine were or not I am not completely sure but I will find out once I use them and then I will share my experience at that point.
dilbeckskate
infamous
hook line and sinker 49.99 free shipping 
dilbeckskate
infamous
It'll be fine though dude moving on
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
http://www.hamotorsports.com/s300-ecu-package.html
Is this a good deal? I'm thinking about going ahead and buying it so that way all I have to do is drive down to CFT and have then tune it. Should be plug and play. It has bluetooth datalogging for androids which I have which is AWESOME!
But anyway let me know if you think its a trustworthy site and a good deal.
Thanks
Is this a good deal? I'm thinking about going ahead and buying it so that way all I have to do is drive down to CFT and have then tune it. Should be plug and play. It has bluetooth datalogging for androids which I have which is AWESOME!
But anyway let me know if you think its a trustworthy site and a good deal.
Thanks
dilbeckskate
infamous
if you want to spend it yes thats the way to do it right to go have it pro tuned, you will need all your sensors "turned on" for that though
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
Well all my sensors are unplugged right now except for was needing to crank and run the motor.
my air sensors are all unplugged and all my emissions stuff has been removed. my car would never pass a smog test lol. but I don't have any engine lights because I'm using a chipped ecu that has had the sensors removed. but anyways.
Do I need all the sensors to work properly in order for them to tune the car properly? I know somethings about tuning but not much. I basically know generalities from videos i've watched ect....
my air sensors are all unplugged and all my emissions stuff has been removed. my car would never pass a smog test lol. but I don't have any engine lights because I'm using a chipped ecu that has had the sensors removed. but anyways.
Do I need all the sensors to work properly in order for them to tune the car properly? I know somethings about tuning but not much. I basically know generalities from videos i've watched ect....
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
I mean I have read up on how to make a basemap ect and using 4 bar map sensors and how to use tables ect...., that I've read up on. But I don't know enough to trust myself to tune my car.
dilbeckskate
infamous
Literally every single sensor on the engine is needed to tune it correctly including the oxygen sensors
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
Ok so I am having a very hard time on the turbo kit part. I am having a hard time coming to grips with buying a turbo kit for $2500 http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gostxbabetuk.html when I can buy this ebay one http://www.ebay.com/itm/400408742362 for $600 and it comes with everything needed to do the install and even comes with a cast iron manifold and ect ect ect....
It comes with a T3/T4 57 trim turbo but it doesn't state what brand the turbo is so I am guessing its probably a cheap knock off maybe. But does that really matter? I could always replace the turbo later if I had issues and would still be under the $2500 price tag
Don't get me wrong I understand the point yall are making but this kit looks identical to the ones that greddy used to sell like the one I used to have on my old sohc Y8 motor I took out it was a greddy kit and this ebay kit looks identical to it only difference is that the ebay kit is for a B-Series motor.
I mean for $1800 I would have a turbo kit installed and I would have hondata installed and the rest of the budget would go to CFT for tuning and I could run 10lbs of boost and be done.
I mean really whats the difference between piecing together a junkyard turbo kit and buying this 1 here from ebay? At $600 I really haven't lost much I don't think if the turbo goes bad?
Could someone give me a pro and con list of the 2 kits to try and explain to me what the big differences really are? That would help a lot. I have compared them item by item for the most part and can't make up my mind. It just seems unnecessary to me to spend $2500 when I can get 1 for $600 and the both basically do the same thing.
I could put a metal mesh screen on one of the pipes to help prevent pieces of the turbo from being sucked into the engine but I believe that would be a rare thing to happen anyways....
It comes with a T3/T4 57 trim turbo but it doesn't state what brand the turbo is so I am guessing its probably a cheap knock off maybe. But does that really matter? I could always replace the turbo later if I had issues and would still be under the $2500 price tag
Don't get me wrong I understand the point yall are making but this kit looks identical to the ones that greddy used to sell like the one I used to have on my old sohc Y8 motor I took out it was a greddy kit and this ebay kit looks identical to it only difference is that the ebay kit is for a B-Series motor.
I mean for $1800 I would have a turbo kit installed and I would have hondata installed and the rest of the budget would go to CFT for tuning and I could run 10lbs of boost and be done.
I mean really whats the difference between piecing together a junkyard turbo kit and buying this 1 here from ebay? At $600 I really haven't lost much I don't think if the turbo goes bad?
Could someone give me a pro and con list of the 2 kits to try and explain to me what the big differences really are? That would help a lot. I have compared them item by item for the most part and can't make up my mind. It just seems unnecessary to me to spend $2500 when I can get 1 for $600 and the both basically do the same thing.
I could put a metal mesh screen on one of the pipes to help prevent pieces of the turbo from being sucked into the engine but I believe that would be a rare thing to happen anyways....
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
So I have been comparing part's and prices and quality and warrantys.
I've also spoken to both vendors.
So I have concluded that I can purchase the $661 ebay kit and then replace the turbo and manifold from the other vendor and still be only at $1400 and then I could turn around and sell the ebay turbo and manifold for a $200-300 and end up only having around $1200 into a complete turbo kit.
What do yall think?
I've also spoken to both vendors.
So I have concluded that I can purchase the $661 ebay kit and then replace the turbo and manifold from the other vendor and still be only at $1400 and then I could turn around and sell the ebay turbo and manifold for a $200-300 and end up only having around $1200 into a complete turbo kit.
What do yall think?
dilbeckskate
infamous
I think that sounds dumb... lol just piece together equality kit
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
Dumb or not it will save me $1300 which I can use to go get my car painted and tuned. Then I will be done.
I have everything ordered. Everything should be here by next week. Then I'm ganna take pictures of everything to share. Then were ganna bolt everything on and trailer the car to CFT hopefully next week to get it dynoed and tuned. When I go I'm ganna see about doing 1-2 runs with stock ecu and motor and see how much power was being made then tune it and dyno it see what the final numbers are. And I will post the numbers and try to get a video while I'm there to share with you guys.
I ordered a new radiator bracket, hondata with hondata boost solenoid and boost by gear option added (comes with ecu and hondata already installed with extra options and they replace capacitors and test the ecu before shipping, datalogging and bluetooth), I ordered moroso already tapped oil pan for oil drain back from turbo and includes an upgraded baffle for better oil pickup, I ordered omni 4 bar oem replacement map sensor so I can increase boost levels at a later date, I ordered a glowshift boost gauge with single pod for A - Piller, I ordered a new b20b oil dipstick with plug to help prevent oil blow by, I ordered new honda civic si throttle cable (mine is on the last metal thread and about to break), I ordered skunk2 silicon radiator hoses, blox Throttle Position Sensor to be mounted on my skunk2 throttle body, new cam seals from honda, new thermostat from honda, and a thermostat housing o-ring,
I am still waiting for the, blox sensor and lca+subframe brace to be delivered plus the other new items I mentioned.
Now I went ahead and ordered the ebay turbo kit for $661 and I will tell you why. I spoke to the vendor and he said that if anything cracks or anything doesn't fit that he will refund my money also he told me they balance the turbos 3 times checking for clearings and making sure the turbo is properly balanced before it ships. Plus I figured if something does break from a year from now I can always order a turbo and manifold from http://www.go-autoworks-store.com their log style manifolds are lifetime warranty and are only $136 and there nice ball bearing turbos can be had brand new for $600-800 so I'm ganna set aside $1000 just incase I need to replace them at some point and if things do great and I don't have to then I can use the money for my future engine built. I also have a used spare ebay turbo and exhaust side that I can use incase the one I get don't work or whatever.
Its an experiment I'm ganna see if they ebay turbo kits any good. If it's not then I will just purchase the whole kit from http://www.go-autoworks-store.com for $2500
I do plan on getting new carpet, shift boot, weather stripping, possibly a new sunroof assembly with new seals, get the car painted jet black, and new tires because mine are showing wires. and thinking about trying to find the black suede seats with red stitching.
But is there anything else I should buy for my motor or chassis that I haven't already purchased or mentioned?
I have everything ordered. Everything should be here by next week. Then I'm ganna take pictures of everything to share. Then were ganna bolt everything on and trailer the car to CFT hopefully next week to get it dynoed and tuned. When I go I'm ganna see about doing 1-2 runs with stock ecu and motor and see how much power was being made then tune it and dyno it see what the final numbers are. And I will post the numbers and try to get a video while I'm there to share with you guys.
I ordered a new radiator bracket, hondata with hondata boost solenoid and boost by gear option added (comes with ecu and hondata already installed with extra options and they replace capacitors and test the ecu before shipping, datalogging and bluetooth), I ordered moroso already tapped oil pan for oil drain back from turbo and includes an upgraded baffle for better oil pickup, I ordered omni 4 bar oem replacement map sensor so I can increase boost levels at a later date, I ordered a glowshift boost gauge with single pod for A - Piller, I ordered a new b20b oil dipstick with plug to help prevent oil blow by, I ordered new honda civic si throttle cable (mine is on the last metal thread and about to break), I ordered skunk2 silicon radiator hoses, blox Throttle Position Sensor to be mounted on my skunk2 throttle body, new cam seals from honda, new thermostat from honda, and a thermostat housing o-ring,
I am still waiting for the, blox sensor and lca+subframe brace to be delivered plus the other new items I mentioned.
Now I went ahead and ordered the ebay turbo kit for $661 and I will tell you why. I spoke to the vendor and he said that if anything cracks or anything doesn't fit that he will refund my money also he told me they balance the turbos 3 times checking for clearings and making sure the turbo is properly balanced before it ships. Plus I figured if something does break from a year from now I can always order a turbo and manifold from http://www.go-autoworks-store.com their log style manifolds are lifetime warranty and are only $136 and there nice ball bearing turbos can be had brand new for $600-800 so I'm ganna set aside $1000 just incase I need to replace them at some point and if things do great and I don't have to then I can use the money for my future engine built. I also have a used spare ebay turbo and exhaust side that I can use incase the one I get don't work or whatever.
Its an experiment I'm ganna see if they ebay turbo kits any good. If it's not then I will just purchase the whole kit from http://www.go-autoworks-store.com for $2500
I do plan on getting new carpet, shift boot, weather stripping, possibly a new sunroof assembly with new seals, get the car painted jet black, and new tires because mine are showing wires. and thinking about trying to find the black suede seats with red stitching.
But is there anything else I should buy for my motor or chassis that I haven't already purchased or mentioned?
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
Here is some update pics,
My traction bar from Full-Race, My 70mm TB from Skunk2, My Intake Manifold from Skunk2, my Radiator from Skunk2, and my SickSpeed Poly Urethane Solid Motor mounts.
My other parts are on the way.
I'm thinking about taking the car to the track in orlando after we get it tuned to see what kind of numbers it makes. It will have everything it needs to put down some power. The motor broke my torque mounts. I had 2 and they are both broke. So now I gatta find some better aftermarket ones.
The motor also broke my stock motor mounts thats why I bought the sickspeed's
My traction bar from Full-Race, My 70mm TB from Skunk2, My Intake Manifold from Skunk2, my Radiator from Skunk2, and my SickSpeed Poly Urethane Solid Motor mounts.
My other parts are on the way.
I'm thinking about taking the car to the track in orlando after we get it tuned to see what kind of numbers it makes. It will have everything it needs to put down some power. The motor broke my torque mounts. I had 2 and they are both broke. So now I gatta find some better aftermarket ones.
The motor also broke my stock motor mounts thats why I bought the sickspeed's
Attachments
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
We installed some new NGK V-Power Plugs and NGK Plug wires and installed the front 2 engine mounts tonight. Tomorrow were ganna install the back mount, the IM and TB, and install my skunk2 short throw shifter I bought from my friend and were installing poly urethane bushings on the shifter and shift linkages to stiffen up the shifting a little bit and make it more responsive. And we will be putting on the traction bar.
Also I did some more research on my transmission and its from a Civic Type R with factory LSD.
Also I did some more research on my transmission and its from a Civic Type R with factory LSD.
dilbeckskate
infamous
no you have a usdm gsr transmission... where do you get your info from dude ? IT HAS FUCKING DC2 ON THE VIN which is integra NOT civic , just like the heads 99.99999% usdm b16 head, doesnt make either bad , youre making progress its looking good, but you didnt break a mount either , worn out ones though ? probably
dilbeckskate
infamous
DanTheHondaMan
Well-Known Member
Well it has LSD. Before we installed the trans we looked through the diff holes/axle holes and you could see straight through there was no bar inside. and we did a tire test and there were 2 tire marks when we spun the tires. It has LSD. However the trans runs at very high RPMs. I'm thinking about getting a LS 5th gear and replacing the syncro's
Well whatever the transmission is it came off of a B16 and it has LSD.
I took out the mounts and the inserts inside the mounts were broke. It wasn't supporting the motor anymore and the motor was rocking. If you want I can take pictures of wear the mounts broke or whatever. The torque mounts are completely gone. They broke and are on a road somewhere lol. So I'm ganna buy some blackworks torque mounts
Well whatever the transmission is it came off of a B16 and it has LSD.
I took out the mounts and the inserts inside the mounts were broke. It wasn't supporting the motor anymore and the motor was rocking. If you want I can take pictures of wear the mounts broke or whatever. The torque mounts are completely gone. They broke and are on a road somewhere lol. So I'm ganna buy some blackworks torque mounts
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