Matts96HB's EJ6 Build

[Matts96HB]

There isn't much peel TBH. It just bugs me because this car seems like it should have been wets anded at the factory, much like the RL.

If I do wind up wet sanding, it'll be 2500 or higher. I've talked to a few folks who have wet sanded recent Hondas and they say there's plenty of clear on the new cars. I'll probably try rubbing compound first just to see. I'm really scared to wet sand -- I've put it off for months now out of fear.

yeah, i dont understand why all cars dont come wetsanded from the factory. I suppose that only a small amount of people would be able to tell the difference unless they were told.

they do make tools to measure the depth of the clear, but that shouldnt be necessary as long as you dont take too much off. make sure you tape off the edges, trim, etc. the edges of the paint are where the clearcoat is thin, and it disappears more quickly than you could ever believe.

Nice, thanks.

 

[double0Si]

It's not cost effective. It's all about their bottom lime to them.

 

[Matts96HB]

touche, apparently it is worth it on some of the cars, such as the RL (which retails for like 49k? or something around there)
i like the RL, but theres no way in hell id ever pay 50k for one.

 

[awptickes]

touche, apparently it is worth it on some of the cars, such as the RL (which retails for like 49k? or something around there)
i like the RL, but theres no way in hell id ever pay 50k for one.

In Europe the RL (known as the Legend) is even more expensive.

 

[fionntan]

It used to be called "Legend" here at one point didn't it.

 

[awptickes]

It used to be called "Legend" here at one point didn't it.

different chassis.

 

[fionntan]

Yes, but what used to be the legend here was replaced by the RL right? I am pretty sure that if you buy the same car with a honda badge outside of the U.S. it would still be called a legend.

 

[Matts96HB]

i know the new generation is known as the honda legend abroad:

 

[GSRCRXsi]

so i know im 3 months late, but why did you use the regular white teflon tape on the oil fittings? you should have used the yellow petroleum specific stuff. oil will break down the regular stuff eventually.

nice car though very nice numbers.

 

[Matts96HB]

so i know im 3 months late, but why did you use the regular white teflon tape on the oil fittings? you should have used the yellow petroleum specific stuff. oil will break down the regular stuff eventually.

nice car though very nice numbers.

i didnt know petroleum specific stuff existed! lol i noticed it was kinda saturated and fell apart when i took the old fittings out, but i thought it was maybe because i didnt get the fittings completely clean before i put them back in. thanks for the heads up!

thanks for the kind words as well, its been a loooooong haul lol

 

[Matts96HB]

ive been fixing little things here and there on the civic, and im just not sure what in the hell to do with it. parts of me want to keep it, parts of me want to get rid of it. as some of you saw, i have an offer on the car in its current state for $6,000 USD.

so Hondaswap, what do you think the Civic is worth?

here's a parts list as of right this second:
1996 Civic Hatch - Clean title
170k miles on the chassis
3,800 miles on the engine after the rebuild

B18B1 bottom end:
Eagle Rods
JE Pistons (8.8:1)
OEM main, rod bearings
new OEM front and rear main seals
new OEM timing belt tensioner
new (<350 miles) Gates racing timing belt
vibrant performance timing belt tensioner
ACT stage 3 clutch

B16 transmission (not perfect, but it works)
MFactory LSD
GM Syncromesh - Friction Modified always used
Fresh syncrho and slide for second gear

B18b1 head:
Brian Crower dual valve springs and titanium retainers
Brian Crower "stage 2" turbo camshafts
edelbrock victor x intake manifold
RC 1000cc injectors w/resistor pack soldered in to the harness

turbo setup:
Turbonetics t04e
ramhorn manifold
TiAL 38mm wastegate
2.5" charge piping- done by me in mild steel, painted with black truck bed liner
3" downpipe, straight 3" exhaust to dynomax super turbo muffler
synapse BOV
snow performance methanol injection
mishimoto intercooler
mishimoto radiator
slim fan wired to a switch

misc:
99-00 conversion (fenders/hood are aftermarket, bumper, grille and headlights are all used OEM)
gsr fat fives in gunmetal w/falken azenis 205/50/15
99-00 hatch tail lights
led turn signals all around
fairly clean nighthawk black pearl paint
led bulbs in the gauge cluster and climate control (blue)
glowshift gauges (boost, oil pressure)
AEM wideband o2 sensor
fusebox relocated to the glovebox
battery relocated to trunk
compustar pro alarm (2way)
fuel pump cutoffs
ksport coilovers
rear disc conversion (not installed)
can have HID's if buyer so desires
armrest swap from EX coupe
vibrant shift knob
blox short throw and bushings

now for the cons:
car leaks some trans fluid, i check/fill it every couple of weeks
car uses some oil/smokes some. not sure of the cause, possibly a leaky head gasket (have replacement cometic)
overspray in door jams
one spot on the paint that needs attention (needs recleared, got through the clear coat with a POS harbor freight polisher)

post up a value on here, i need some ideas of what to ask if i do sell it..

 

[99sidude]

$6k seems decent. I don't know what the market is like fir those cars out there though. The hardest part is finding a buyer. Most people who want to buy an 11 second CIVIC don't have the cash to buy it, and there is no bank that will loan out $6k for a 14 year old civic. I parted out my last civic project and did a fair bit better than if I sold it outright. I sold off the higher dollar stuff like the supercharger kit, header, injectors, coilovers, wheels, ect... I got some el cheepo crap coils, threw on some beat fat 5's, converted the gsr back to stock (had kept the stock parts), and sold the car for $4200 as a clean eg with a stock gsr swap. Sold it in 15 minutes on craigslist.

 

[Matts96HB]

i suppose parting the car is always an option. but i dont know that id get 4k for my hatch, and then 2k for the turbo stuff. its hard to say.

 

[Matts96HB]

so my car is still smoking a bit, and it got hot the other day (temp gauge started climbing)
the car is also sputtering in the higher RPM's, like its running lean. i have only done a couple pulls to verify that it is a consistent problem.
the air/fuel gauge reads RICH. the plugs show LEAN.

compression test is as follows:
cyl 1 - 130 psi
cyl 2 - 135 psi
cyl 3 - 140 psi
cyl 4 - 140 psi
this done with an autozone gauge, throttle plate closed, car idled for about 3-4 min, and was getting close to operating temp but did have some time to cool down after while i was searching for a tool.
now i realize that these numbers are very low. stock b18b1's are supposed to be around 180 across the board.
i do have lower than stock compression
the throttle plate was closed.

what do you guys think?

 

[GSRCRXsi]

Thought you were supposed to hold the throttle open when doing a compression test?

 

[99sidude]

 

[Matts96HB]

Thought you were supposed to hold the throttle open when doing a compression test?

damnit, i was told it wouldnt make much of a difference..

hmm..

 

[FLounder]

in my experience it doest make much difference

 

[Matts96HB]

ill have to try it with the throttle plate open, and ill need to be sure the car is at operating temp this time. last time i got caught up looking for a tool so the car had some time to cool off.

 

[Fernpatch]

Not knowing what your cempresion ratio is on that motor I would still expect 160 psi or better on a cold engine.