Max Boost

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:nobreed: I notice you like to get your panties in a bind alot round here mr. simplyfast! Why don't you just sit back and take a deep breath about things. We are all here to help each other and learn, not critisize what eveyone knows, or thinks they know. I see alot of critisim from you lately, and i think its pissing off more people than you know. I'm just saying, not everyone knows what you might know. Not everyone knows what I might know. We all come to this board to embrace a love for the same thing, cars. Don't always turn everything into a grudge match just because you diagree with someone. Great if you can run 40 lbs of boost on a stock B20. You have every right to do that. I wouldn't, but thats just my $.02. See i can still get my point across without acting like a little spoiled brat! chill out.
 
if those people gettin mad at me are the same ones sayin you cant run boost over 10psi in a high compression engine, i could give a fuck, less.

and your so dead wrong about me. i stated shit nicely, didnt give a fuck when pepboy mechanics such as yourself included a stupid ass smiley...just laughed. but this is it...people gonna try to piss on my knowledge about engines, boosting and im supposed to be cool about it? hell no, not when they dont know shit themselves.

you wanna know what you do with a b20b? you simly post up the cylinder walls, install new oem pistons .50 over, take the rods and crank down to the machine shop and do this-bead blast and polish the rod-its now strong enough for 500hp. micropolish the crank. then have your new pistons/wrist pins pressed into place, get the total weight of piston/rod, and have the crank balanced out so youll have less than 4lbs at 8000rpm. put the bottom end back together. make sure the cylinder walls were finished to at least 380, preferably 400 cause they will become polished after break-in is complete. install your turbo with an msd 6btm ignition. have your buddy who knows how to tune an engine work on your shit. run no less than 12psi to begin with, slowly adding boost according to engine response. if you pick the right cams, you should be runnin 14psi with minimal overlap on pump gas, mid grade if youve taken the right steps in cooling.

xtra tip-go thru your block and head and clean up all passages. clean the casting out of both oil and water passages, all that shit. then match the passages to each other as best you can. this is gonna help with your cooling. this will help prevent detonation in the long run. this will allow you to get an extra lb or two of boost.

wanna run 40psi for braggin rights? simply go with a cam with plenty of overlap. just be warned, this isnt the most effecient way to run a turbo'd engine.
 
ya'll dont know shit bout turbos, so please refrain from giving advice


Nicely, huh?

So when did you do this B20 turbo that you know so much about it... personally... we just want our engines strong... It's called insurance. And that's not even guaranteed. "If it's mechanical it can break."
 
ive never touched a b20 in my life, except maybe to put spark plugs in one or perform a tune up. its just called knowledge. i know how to build an engine, boost an engine or blow up an engine. all 4 stroke engines are relative to each other. i know a few things about the b20 just by reading up on it. ive read articles at theoldone.com and a couple of other places.

ya'll think anytime a block needs to be stiffened to call on darton. dont get me wrong, darton makes quality pieces, but sometimes a block guard or to post a block is all that needs to be done.

same goes for boost. god forbid someone builds a boosted engine on oem internals. its like half of the people here aint never heard of bead blasting, polishing, micro polishing, balancing, or heat treating an oem peice to make it stronger or better. they aint never heard of overlap either, which makes it possible to run high psi on high compression engines.

you know there is a term for people like that...theyre called catalog racers.
 
But why not buy the upgraded aftermarket parts an insurance? like i understand what you mean bro, but you're not the turbo-motor god so just chill the hell out- and go ahead tough nuts- take a stock b20 and throw 40 psi of boost through it, i would love to see you do it without any aftermarket parts-oh and btw bro, if you build a motor on oem internals it isn't built- it's stock-
 
you can do whatever you want. buy the aftermarket parts for insurance. but they can fail just as quickly as the oem pieces can if the mechanic doesnt know what they are doing. eagle, je, cunningham, etc dont mean shit in my book. look at what honda has built, and think about what they will build. take into consideration the internals of a honda b16 are good for up to 500hp, so long as the builder knows what they are doing.

id rather spend money on other things; beer, bitches, bud...

oh and by the way, bra, building a motor doesnt mean droppin in name brand parts. it means knowing what youre doing and making it better than it came from the factory, ok, bra?

now read my sig for boost knowledge.
 
This pep boy mechanic will smoke anything you have! and by the way its called shot peening the rods you uneducated FUCK! Next time you open your mouth about a subject, maybe you'd like to have a little more knowledge than what you read...like hands on. I'll build a motor that will put you the shame...


BTW I'll take warning points from the mods for this one...Its the principality!
 
Originally posted by simplyfast@Dec 14 2003, 08:46 PM
ive never touched a b20 in my life, except maybe to put spark plugs in one or perform a tune up. its just called knowledge. i know how to build an engine, boost an engine or blow up an engine. all 4 stroke engines are relative to each other. i know a few things about the b20 just by reading up on it. ive read articles at theoldone.com and a couple of other places.

ya'll think anytime a block needs to be stiffened to call on darton. dont get me wrong, darton makes quality pieces, but sometimes a block guard or to post a block is all that needs to be done.

same goes for boost. god forbid someone builds a boosted engine on oem internals. its like half of the people here aint never heard of bead blasting, polishing, micro polishing, balancing, or heat treating an oem peice to make it stronger or better. they aint never heard of overlap either, which makes it possible to run high psi on high compression engines.

you know there is a term for people like that...theyre called catalog racers.

How is it possible to strenghten a OEM piece by bead blasting it?
 
its called shot peening. It strees relieves the metal to make it more consistent w/ less chance for failure from a certain point. It make the piece work as one and not have weak points
 
Originally posted by simplyfast@Dec 14 2003, 11:37 AM
ya'll dont know shit bout turbos, so please refrain from giving advice. ive tried to be nice, slowly workin you in to class, but its impossible.

i can boost a b20 to 40psi and not have any problems. wanna know why? cause its all about overlap and washin your cylinder so much, you dont keep the boost.
OVERLAP, READ ABOUT IT, EMBRACE IT, ACCEPT IT!

you also so dont need to re-sleeve the block, just simply post it. you will gain a lot of strength from that mod.

your a fucking retard. And you have no communication skills, and/or common sense. It's not that we don't understand what your saying, it's that it is completely fucking useless and unrealistic.

Yea, lets boost 40 psi, and use valve overlap to do it. You don't keep the boost? Thats cool. We will blow the intake charge right out the exhaust valve! good idea! So when the exhaust temp ignites that wasted charge, we'll be haulin ass behind a tow-truck! Way to give people useful information you fucking clod.

Have fun being banned.
 
funny, when i dropped off my rods and told him i wanted them shot peened, he wrote down on the invoice bead blasted...oh maybe cause thats what he calls it on his invoice. shot peening and bead blasting are just about the same fuckin thing tard boy.

have fun being banned? lighten up. a bunch of you said you would be breaking rods, destroying engines basically but you all forgot a little thing called overlap.
 
Just so I'm not a post whore, I wouldn't go over 7-8 psi on a bored block that hasn't been sleeved yet, as the walls get too thin.
As for simplyfast,
I think that all the intelligent people on this forum would rather have you act like an idiot on someone else's website. Or do us all a favor and go create your own website and talk about how great you are, and we will all ignore you, because you talk like you never made it through 3rd grade. Frankly, I would never let you touch anything with my name on it, especially engines. Get outta here, and don't the door hit you on your way out. Dork.
 
I like this guy's "Let's take a used,abused B-series engine and add heaping piles of boost into the cylinders."

There is a reason why top fuel, F1, and virtually all RACE quality engines are rebuilt with BRAND new parts. You don't see F1 blow their engines and rebuild with the same crankshaft or whatever was finked in the process. They get an all new parts for durability. So, when we have 80,000 miles on a B16... most of us want to restart with parts that can handle the stress.

OEM parts are good... but the added protection of aftermarket rods and valvesprings are even nicer. Yes, these parts can fail just as easily... but the odds are against it.

Can we also use 'overlap' to rev to 10,000 rpm on a stock ECU??? :blink:
 
simplyfast has been suspended for 5 days.

carry on.
 
Originally posted by hybrid89@Dec 14 2003, 10:13 PM
BTW I'll take warning points from the mods for this one...Its the principality!

lol

does simplyfast know micro polishing is not for strength? oh yes...40 psi on a b20....lol

its funny though how simplyfast praises overlap...on a turbo motor, thats probally how hes running 40 psi of boost w/o it blowing up, but still making as much power as if it had 6psi.
 
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