motherboard died

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psst, b.

cal is right. if you are running sli (nvidia cards) you gotta buy an nvidia chipset. unless of course your going to run hacked drivers.
 
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nvidia makes some awesomely crappy chipsets. they were the stuff back in the nforce2 to nforce 4 days. but after the 5xx series, they just kind of went down hill and now all but extinct from the chipset market. especially stay away from the 6xx series; huge problems such data corruption, general drivers and BSODS. Most were sorted out, but intel chipsets were just easier and usually clocked better than nvidia chips.

Now they have a handful like ion and some 8200/8300, but right now the recommendation is:

intel = intel chipset
amd = amd/ati chipset
 
my ram is ddr2 800 and my cpu is 1033 FSB. I also need an sli or something similar for my video card. (its a dual link card to run my 30" monitor)

so, basically I don't need another p35 chipset... a newer chipset that will hold socket 775 with my bus speeds will match?

You said you wanted SLI right here?

nvidia makes some awesomely crappy chipsets. they were the stuff back in the nforce2 to nforce 4 days. but after the 5xx series, they just kind of went down hill and now all but extinct from the chipset market. especially stay away from the 6xx series; huge problems such data corruption, general drivers and BSODS. Most were sorted out, but intel chipsets were just easier and usually clocked better than nvidia chips.

Now they have a handful like ion and some 8200/8300, but right now the recommendation is:

intel = intel chipset
amd = amd/ati chipset

True now- buying today I'd run an Intel chipset. A few years ago the nVidia chipsets were the only ones to get if you wanted good performance and SLI compatibility. I'm on an 680 board and it's actually very stable and extremely fast.
 
yeah, i was wrong. i confused sli with dual link for some reason. but thats all on my card anyway.
 
Err have you tried to simply pull the cmos jumper pin out for 10 seconds and then replace it back or put in on the other pins, like if its on pins 1 and 2, put it on pins 2 and 3 for 10 seconds,(power cord unplugged) and then place it back on pins 1 and 2
 
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DFI boards are REALLY annoying at times. Try a 24hr cmos clear. Take out the battery and place the jumper in clear for 24 hours and then try again. Im not sure why they are temperamental but they are definitely not user friendly unless youre advance (not saying that you arent).

anyway, i dont think any Pxx does SLi, but the P45 does do crossfire. Why do you need sli or cf? Dual link doesnt require either to run a monitor of that size because a PCIe 8x/16x should have more than enough bandwidth to support it.

As for as mobos go, top tiers are currently ASUS and Gigabyte. EVGA is there but thats more for overclockers.

I guess i'll try the 24 hour. i've unplugged everything down to the cpu, and i still can't even get it to beep.

I've also noticed that my LED for ram power isn't lighting up red like the manual says it should. its green.

Ram even removed doesn't change that light. hrm.




hrm, i don't know. i have an 8800gts in the 16x slot.

there
 
While we're on the subject of motherboards, going to start a new thread and see if any of you folks that work in the field have any experience with my problem.
 
yeah, i was wrong. i confused sli with dual link for some reason. but thats all on my card anyway.

Ah. Yeah, get one of the newer Intel chipsets. Pretty much anything will work- the G31 has been a really good stable chipset for really cheap boards.
 
well wtf. got it in.

my case front panel pins don't work. i can't get the board to turn on at all.

the led/indicator/hdd activity pin on my board is 2 pin. my case and last board has a 3-pin connector.
ok, no big deal, i left that one unplugged as the power switch and speaker are really the only 2 items necessary at this point.
it still won't turn on. board doesn't have any lights on it, so it must not be getting any power. checked the power connections again, everything looks right.

i'm so fucking frustrated at this thing right now, im pretty much about to just go order something from dell and call it a day.

non-standards piss me the fuck off.
 
did you check the master switch on your power supply? (if yours has one)

I've pulled my hair out after an upgrade cause of that bastard too
 
yes, toggled that 10 times along with the power cord itself, and the power plug on the board.
 
if you bought the one you linked to you need an 8pin power connector (there's usually an adapter in the mobo box if your psu doesnt have on) just to the left (if the usb ports are down) of the thing that says ultra durable.
 
forgot to mention, you can install just a single 4 pin connector (if you dont have an 8 pin), just make sure the black wires on the connector are on the left side of the board and the yellow connectors are on the right (toward the processor).

if you're only using 2 sticks of ram, make sure there is a space between each stick (meaning slots 1/3 or slots 2/4)
 
after you have all the psu wires plugged in, try 1 stick of ram along with video card. short the 2 pins on the motherboard with a regular pen that corresponds to pwr on the front panel hook up. just to make sure the power button isnt messed up or the wires.
 
got it to turn on. i had the switch -/+ backwards.

problem is.... this is doing the EXACT same thing as my old board was.... so, basically, it's not the board that was broken.

i think it might be the processor.

i don't know...
 
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