My newest build for SCCA STL/HPDE's

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ya NASA is a great group.
 
So I got to taking it apart today to put in the new water pump and timing belt.

Pretty lucky, barely hanging on.

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Ahh wtf thats not supposed to happen. I have never seen this type of failure.

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I checked the valvetrain and everything looks intact and really clean so thats good. Im going to see if I can get it all back together today. I hate doing the timing belt, major pita to get tension right etc at least to my liking.

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Woooooow to that water pump. WTF. I have changed dozens of those little Honda pumps and never seen any indication of that even beginning to happen. Yikes.
 
Sucks to hear about the water pump.....and the one session with over heating.

When you put the belt on and tighten the tensioner.....what results are you getting to make you re-try?
I've got them all done differently and been frustrated from multiple failed attempts (F, D, and B series).
Try it one way and then others and then go back to the original only to see it works perfectly :thumbsdown:

But last time (when I parted out my B16) I put the mark a little high on the exhaust side (like > 2:30) with a little low on the intake (> 8:30)
They lined right up when I tensioned it, first attempt and the tension was nice :shrug2:
 
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I like to run my belt tight enough that you can only grab it and make barely a half turn when grabbing it beneath the gears. I have no problem lining up marks and having it TDC. Its just the tension that always annoys me. I will sometimes just grab the tensioner and pull it tight then bolt it instead of the method Honda uses in the Helms. I have run both ways and sometimes its worked better grabbing the tensioner.

I bought a new radiator cap as well just in case thats an issue. My next track day is with Darkside de at Roebling RD in Nov. so I need to get a lot of shit done. I finally got them to let me run in their intermediate solo group so Im looking forward to driving that track without some douchebag rear wheel drive instructor telling me the wrong lines.

I just found an issue with the brakes, rotors cracking. Im thinking Im having over cooling issues on the rotors so I might need to block off the ducts for this event or partially block them.

Racing never gets dull or cheap and Im not even competing yet.
 
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Ah, same theory I have on my cracked rotors..
 
UNDR8D said:
over-cooling, on a track. I wouldn't have expected that to be a problem.
Click to expand...

Yeah its pretty easy to have happen. Rotors get hot and expand then you go 120-130 mph with brake ducts on brakes that are already not that hot because of their size (ITR for me) then they contract, then you brake from 120 or so down to like 60-80 and continue on. At Sebring when its hotter I need every bit of cooling I can get even with the larger brakes but this time it was cool out and I wasn't up to the speeds Im normally at going through the circuit.

Roebling is much kinder to brakes so Im going to need to cover them up completely I think especially since its ggoing to be cooler in Nov.

B16 said:
Ah, same theory I have on my cracked rotors..
Click to expand...

I thought of your issue when I saw them.

This could be why it was bucking like a bronco during threshold braking.

I have another set of prelude rotors I need to drill out to 4x100.
 
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I have used a pry bar with a rag to get the tensioner where I want it :ph34r:

I end up off TDC when i get it tight (I like it pretty tight too) which makes me re-try. But last time I did it....the motor was on a engine stand which made it much much easier.
 
I hate doing it while its in the car. I hate doing anything on the motor while its in the car, almost like 2d at that point instead of 3d.

Thinking back now, the non oem belt and non oem pump seemed to be slightly off when I set the timing. I pinned the cams so it lined up perfect tdc and made sure the marker on the oil pump was dead on and I had slack....hmmm damnit.
 
Pretty crucial.

Too tight and you get a whining noise and and added stress.

too loose and you can jump teeth or worse.
 
I never pull the tensioner on my motor. I follow the helms explicitly each time. No problems.
 
vtecsir1 said:
Pretty crucial.

Too tight and you get a whining noise and and added stress.

too loose and you can jump teeth or worse.
Click to expand...

I know that, my dad and I learned that with one of our first Hondas. It went boom.

Can it affect performance if you don't line up the marks perfectly? I usually get an extra set of hands to rotate the crank pulley counter clockwise and the compression of the engine will take up the slack then I tighten up the tensioner.
 
A tight belt will give you a tad more hp, loose belt you lose some power.

You have to try to find the right balance.

Not timing the motor by not lining it up properly can cause issues. It can also add performance but you want to start at 0,0 and adjust with cam gear/s and distributor. Then you can attack the programming.

One way I do it is to put the belt on close to TDC. I turn the cam gears opposite directions which gets rid of the slack between the top in between gears.

Then I slightly loosen the tensioner pulley and rotate the crank and tighten at different turns until its all the way tightened. Then I turn it all over looking for any flapping of the belt. Check TDC then check timing once running with a light.

Or I just put the belt on and pull the tensioner really tight :p
 
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Shit runs! I need to tighten the belt more, fucking helms bullshit method.
 
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