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OBDII 97 EK swap to B18B1 non-vtec

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by bfraley, Apr 8, 2008.

  1. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    take off the intake at the throttle body
    turn on the car
    with a 20oz plastic soda bottle cover the TB if it turns off you dont have a vacuum leak if it stays on you have a leak
     
  2. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    lol the guy that tuned (edit.. attempted tuning) my car today did the same thing to check for vac leaks.
     
  3. |Chaz|

    |Chaz| Well-Known Member VIP

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    +rep on the solid job that you have done bfraley :thumbsup:
     
  4. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    Thanks! A little more fine tuning to get the idle smooth and I'll be all set.
     
  5. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    I'll check that out this weekend. Hopefully by Monday I'll have the idle running sweet. Thanks!
     
  6. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    I checked compression in my B18B1 last night and it looks good.

    CYL1: 180psi
    CYL2: 170psi
    CYL3: 170psi
    CYL4: 180psi

    A reference from this site referenced a Helms manual and stated that for the B18B1....compression should be no higher than 199psi, no lower than 135psi, and not more than 28psi diff between cylinders. Looks like a healthy motor. Next checks for uneven idle.....vacuum and electrical.....maybe this weekend.

    I've been monitoring the engine/tranny operation through this whole process. My greatest fear has been catastrophic mechanical failure of the engine or tranny but nagasaki motors came through with a good motor/tranny for me.

    I filled my tank yesterday for the first time since using the new setup as a daily commuter. Avg speed 70mph/3000rpm. Gas: 93 octane from a PILOT gas station in MA. Avg mpg = 30.4 and did get a few fun romps in there too. So the Integra LS estimated hwy mpg of 31 is right on. I may slow it down a bit to see if 60/65 mph avg makes a big difference, or even a tank at 80mph hwy avg.....very possible on the MA pike. By the way, 93 octane in MA yesterday was $4.09.9 per gallon while in CT it was $4.53.9 per gallon. Guess where I buy my gas?!?
     
  7. mikeyg323

    mikeyg323 New Member

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    So how do you like your new B18B engine in your EK hatch? I want to do the same thing. How much did you pick up the engine and tranny for?
     
  8. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    I really like the B18b1 in the EK. It's one of the easiest swaps to do and that's partly why I selected the engine. I have no plans to install a turbo, but a lot of people do with this engine as it is a great fit. I picked up the '96 JDM OBD2a B18B1 engine, 5speed tranny, PS, A/C, alternator, new axles, P7H ECU, half axle, JDM right hand drive engine harness, downpipe, and all sensors for $1650 shipped from www.nagasakimotors.com If you read through my whole thread you'll see most of the highlights from my swap. I spent about $3000 total on parts, but I also replaced the suspension on the car. It took my brother and I two days to pull the old motor, install the new motor and fire it up successfully and we had no experience on engine changes in Hondas. I can not stress enough how valuable this forum was to preparing me for the job. Research, read and then do it again. Find multiple sources for your answers to verify. I am proof that it can successfully be done by a novice. I went from getting 33-34(D16) mpg to 30-31mpg(B18). Of course I have to keep my foot out of it to get the best economy. Good Luck!
     
    Herc2k likes this.
  9. Disnitch

    Disnitch New Member

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    Awesome thread! I came here looking for a thread like this and thankfully I found it. Lots of good information in here...
     
  10. ilubmyEG

    ilubmyEG New Member

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    I am performing the same swap but with a USDM b18b1. I have the full car, its a wrecked 99 LS. all Ill need is the rear tranny bracket from an Si and that should be it, plus a new front axel cause the guy broke it. Im super stoked to have the same setup. Was wondering about your suspension... To tight? just right? Im thinking of going tein basic damper coilovers. Ill be adding to my Ek 97, b18b1 front sway bars, rear disc brakes, rear sway bar, front skunk2 adjustable camber kit, and rear adjustable camber kit. anything to heads up for me on the swap? Or is it really like you said, just go right in? this will be my second swap the first being a b16a2. Good stuff on your post. This makes me wana take the good prep to make sure it all goes smoothly cause its my DD to. Im just not mechanically inclined as you are or I would do it all myself. Gotta have my friends their to help over look and make sure its all correct.
     
  11. Disnitch

    Disnitch New Member

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    I was just told that I can't use the B18B wiring harness in my car and that I have to modify my existing harness. Can anyone confirm this for me? This is the first time I have heard about this. If I need to modify my existing harness is there somewhere I can go to see a schematic of what needs to be changed? I really suck at electrical stuff!
     
  12. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    If your EK is a 5 speed: On your engine mounts, you'll need the back mount "T" bracket from a 99-00 Civic Si, you'll need the timing belt motor mount brackets(cast and steel) from a 99-00 Civic Si, the front passenger side tranny torque mount bracket will need to be replaced. (I ordered a new one from Honda). I've seen a lot of people not use the front torque mounts on swaps, but they were using Hasport or similar motor mounts. All of your stock rubber mounts will work.

    As far as suspension goes......I really wanted to go with eibach sport lines which drop the car ~1.5", but my goal was to do the trailer thing so I needed to keep the bumper at stock height. My H&R OE springs and KYB GR2 struts made a huge difference in tightening things up, but I know going a bit lower would have changed the center of balance and made me a bit flatter in the turns. The anti-swaybar kit really helped as well. I still haven't installed the rear bar due to brake line brackets in the way, but I'll get to it as time permits. It sounds like you'll have a tight flat ride when you get it all installed.

    Take your time and double check everything. Make sure the IACV wiring change is done correctly and any harness extensions are bulletproof. You'll be glad you did. On the suspension.....start a month out and spray everything with PB blaster on a regular basis. Even with doing that I had to cut a bolt and replace the right rear upper control arm because the inner bushing started to spin (the mounting bolt was fused to the inner bushing). Good luck with your work!
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  13. ilubmyEG

    ilubmyEG New Member

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    Anyone know an easy place like a link to get this? been searching but the one i found doesnt look similiar to the one i had before. Any quick help?
     
  14. Disnitch

    Disnitch New Member

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    I wrote down all the part numbers for the mounts mentioned above but they are at work. I'll post them up tomorrow.
     
  15. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    The sources I used: www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and www.acuraautomotiveparts.org are where I did most of my cross referencing of PNs etc... I was amazed at how many of the same Honda PNs are used across Honda/Acura platforms. It's like building Legos...lol
     
  16. ilubmyEG

    ilubmyEG New Member

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    Their is some familiar language :) sounds like it will be right up my corridor for what im lookin for. Also are you keeping your block pretty much stock? How quick is your ride? Ill have a VERY similiar setup and im just excited as hell to get out of my SOHC VTEC :) and back into a B.
     
  17. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    I can tell you that going from a 106hp/103ft-lbs(D16Y7) to a 147hp/128ft-lbs(JDM B18b1) is quite a difference. Lots more power and torque. The EK now pulls much harder than it did. I'm not a racer but I am an enthusiast and the few times I have tried to drop the clutch at 5000 rpm have simply smoked the 17" summer tires. I've read elsewhere on this forum that you can expect 15 second quarter mile times with a stock B18 installed. The best part is still getting 30-31mpg + A/C with an increase in power like that. I took the swap plunge and am very happy I did. I can see how it could have turned into a nightmare if I hadn't made the right preparations.
     
  18. Disnitch

    Disnitch New Member

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    What is the final verdict on the throttle cable? I know you said the LS cable was too long so did you end up modifying the stock one? I'm assuming the LS fuel line and filter also worked out fine for you? I'm compiling a part list with all the part numbers right now. My dad owns a repair shop so I can get all Honda OEM parts at wholesale cost...
     
  19. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    Look through my thread and you'll find a pic of the throttle cable modification I implemented. I stayed with the same D16Y7 type fuel filter, but used the LS fuel line(good condition from a junk yard). I replaced all the sealing washers.
     
  20. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    front end madness....arrrrrgh!!!

    Ok......I read it in the forums and didn't take heed and now I'm paying for it. I purchased an Ebay front end kit that included ball joints, tie rod ends for a great price. After 5000 miles and 30 days my new lower ball joint on the drivers side fell apart on me yesterday. Thank God I was barely moving and just pulling out from a driveway 3 miles from home. Within an hour the go-cart was back home and up on jack stands. Upon further inspection I found the ball joint had little to no grease applied. The bottom half of the ball joint looked as if it had been ground away at high temp. Not a pretty sight. Total damage is a lower front ball joint, a front drivers side axle(inner CV pulled apart) and some fender crunch. I was very lucky. When I get a chance I'll post some pics. Guess what I'm doing this 4th of July weekend? Replacing Ebay junk ball joints with known quality ones.....maybe MOOG? I knew things had gone too smoothly with the swap!!
     
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