Turbo time for my b18b

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I had a Greddy kit on my D16 and I liked it but I just had a B18b swapped into my Civic and I turboed it this weekend heres what I did or recommend:

Look around Honda-Tech for a Greddy B series manifold and Greddy 18g turbo. I paid $100 for the manifold and $325 for the turbo, make sure the downpipe is included.

You want to go Uberdata. Its nice and cheap. If you are in a place that has emissions you might not want to because you have to convert to OBD 1 but it is the cheapest way.

I paid $150 for a P28 at a local junkyard. Now Id go to www.junkyarddog.com and request an ECU for a 95 Civic EX. Ive heard automatic ECUs are cheaper and can be easily converted to manual.

Chip the P28. It takes about $40 in chipping supplies and is really easy to do.

Obd 2 to 1 conversion harness, $75 at Lightning Motorsports.

Chip burner was $85 at www.moates.net

Go to http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/ and follow the instructions to burn a basemap.

I got a www.johnnyracecar.com intercooler for $195. They now have bigger and better intercoolers for $270. Which is a good price for how big it is. http://www.street-customs.com/cgi-bin/ccp5...r=HOME:specials

Buy two 2.5" 180 degree mandrel bends and one 90 degree mandrel bend from JC Whitney or a local auto parts place. Buy about 5' of 2.25" flexible exhaust piping at local parts store. Use these parts to make your charge piping.

I used rubber hose from a local parts store (Royco) as charge pipe connectors.

DSM BOVs are about $40 on Ebay.

You can get oil feed and drain line kits at www.cheapturbolines.com for $78. I made the drain line myself and used the oil feed from my D16 kit. The drain line is easy to make but the oil feed line is hard to come by. Id just get the kit from the above link.

The inlet on the 18g turbo is 3" which makes it a bitch to get inlet piping for it. You also have to grind away a little of the block. I ended up using 3" stainless steel stovepipe that I had left over from installing a pellet stove. You can probably pick it up at a local fireplace store. Its expensive but I cant remember how much, you only need about 20" though so you should get it pretty cheap.

Pick up whatever 3" K&N filter you like for about $35.

Crap I forgot about injectors. RC 440s for $275. DSM injectors work but I was nervous about using used injectors. Paid $25 for OBD 1 injector clips.
 
I would like to do a mix of used and new parts. I like the idea of using dsm injectors. Do you have to use a missing link if you go uberdata
 
Missing link is not required with Uberdata.

My setup above is probably only running high 14s but its not tuned yet, Im running 8# but will run 10# soon, and Im still running through the cat also Im running on crappy tires. It also depends on how light your car is obviously. I have a 97 Civic EX.

You might have a hard time running 13s without a really light car. And unless you spend the money for an LSD, about $1000, you might have the mph for 13s but not the ET.
 
I removed my PS a while back when it was a D16. You can keep your PS but I dont know how to do it.

You can keep your AC by following the swap guides. You can use a P54 AC bracket from a Del Sol. I am using an aluminum ITR AC bracket but I dont have my AC installed yet. Some people say the aluminum is too weak and wont hold the AC compressor. Ill find out.
 
I have a 95 integra with the b18b in it. When I add a turbo is there any way to keep the a/c or do I just lose.
 
what manifolds allow you to keep your a/c, but more importantly is it worth it?
 
:shrug2:

The equal length Ebay manifold says it will let you keep your A/C but didn't let me keep mine.
Full-Race makes a manifold that allows you to retain your A/C and is more than worth the price.
 
Boost creep mostly has to do with the wastegate in which not enough exhaust gas is bypassed before the turbo which causes the psi to increase more than what it is set for. Example: You have the boost set at 7 psi and it continues to climb over 7psi on the boost gauge as your RPM's rise.

Some people complain about the DRAG manifold contributing to boost creep because of where the wastegate flange is. You want a manifold that has the flange directly in the middle of all four runners not just on one.
 
I want the car to be streetable and run off of 93 pump gas. My power goal is to hit 12.5-13.5 sec on the quarter mile on DOT approved drag radials. I would like a quick spooling turbo so that I could easily pick up autocross if I wanted too.

What would you recommend for a turbo and intercooler?
 
t3/t4 turbo: Garrett, Full-Race, Precision, Turbonetics...
Intercoolers: Full-Race, Spearco, Precision, PWR...
I'm using a Spearco FMIC and it's working just fine and supports 350whp (according to Spearco) and that's fine I don't plan on going above that.
With 300whp and slicks reaching your goal should be fairly easy.
 
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Jun 7 2004, 07:01 PM
I am plainning on learning and using uberdata. With a 300hp - 350hp do you think I would need to upgrade the fuel injectors

you're gonna want at least 550s for that power level. but keep in mind, they will not support much more than that so if you ever plan to go for more power, you will need to upgrade. with this in mind, you might as well just get bigger ones up front, unless you are sure you will not want more power [trust me, you will].
 
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