What's a fair value my ride

[NSXguy]

What would be a fair market value for my latest "new" ride ?

Here are the specs:

92 DX hatch
no rust
no accidents
clear carfax
some dings on body
paint decent

Drivetrain
Full mechanical/electrical swap from CR-V into civic
B20B4 with stock internals
4WD tranny (only FWD for now).
Stock CRV ECU
DC headers
Type-R racing pulley (lightweight, only alternator)
New lowerball joints
New front bearings
New Autozone LTW axles
Centra wheel 14"
15"/16" NSX wheels if I put the CR-V hubs (works, I already tried)

Interior
Stock

Let me say I'm not looking to buy another one or nor I'm trying to sell the one I have. I'm just trying to figure out a fair value for insurance (theft coverage) and what a setup like this is worth if mine needed to be replaced.

Thank you for your honest (and serious) input.
Alex

 

[Cashizslick]

$1000

 

[dok]

that motor is motor is more then 1000 i would shot for 4k

 

[tylonalsnifnfool]

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that motor is motor is more then 1000 i would shot for 4k

 

[VTECPOWER]

$2500

 

[vtecsir1]

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$2500

yeah no higher than that.

 

[PhyRe]

i dunno id say 5000 total thats covering the shell glass sterio rimsswap all that maybe 4500

 

[NSXguy]

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$1000

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$2500

yeah no higher than that.

wow.

and where exactly have you seen rust-free, accident-free, running EG hatches with B20B swaps going for sale in the $1K-$2.5K ? Honestly, I was looking for 12-18 months before I decided to do a swap myself, and the only EG at the price you mention where either parts car or salvaged vehicles with stock or no engines. These engines with a decent LS tranny and mounts are alone already worth $1.5K _IF_ you are lucky. Throw in an ECU and axles and you are already looking at a total $2K. Then you need the vehicle I haven't even included yet...

So, seriously, if you can back your claims up with some facts, please share it on this thread and show ALL of us where you can get a running EG hatch with a B20B swap for $1K-$2.5K. Otherwise, I'll just take it that you're just stating your (envious) opinion at best or have some kind of an agenda against EG's or B20B swaps...

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i dunno id say 5000 total thats covering the shell glass sterio rimsswap all that maybe 4500

$5K might be a lil' hight.

When the CR-V rear end will be put in, with the fuel cell and all, I'd definetly agree at least that, maybe much more cuz you don't really see many AWD Civics around here

I've also got 2 brand new turbos waiting to be mounted somewhere. Right now, on street tires I have to feather the throttle and can't even put the power to the ground in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. So going FI would be pointless. But with the 4 wheels grabbing, that's a whole different story...

 

[posol]

you asked for insurance value.... not selling value.

insure it cheaper, get lower premiums... cuz they are only going to fuck you when it gets stolen or crashes anyway.... insure it cheap, buy it back, part it out or use on a new shell.

and really, you're wasting your time with the "awd". 90/10 split is pretty much useless....

 

[micah]

i sold a clean 89 crx si with zc swap for 2500 + a shitty taurus that i gave my sister. had like 230k on chassis and 60k on motor <-- the crx.

id say your car is worth 3.5-4k

have any pictures? might help

 

[NSXguy]

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you asked for insurance value.... not selling value.

insure it cheaper, get lower premiums... cuz they are only going to fuck you when it gets stolen or crashes anyway.... insure it cheap, buy it back, part it out or use on a new shell.

you are correct. I did ask for insurance value. The problem is that the car as a 92 EG is worth around $1,200. Any damage over $800 and the insurance totals it.

Unless...

I can show them what the "real" market value goes for these lil' hatches due to the swap. They will consider engine & drivetrain mods, but no body or other cosmetic mods.

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and really, you're wasting your time with the "awd". 90/10 split is pretty much useless....

You are probably confused with the RT4WD system on the earlier wagons. The way the CR-V's RealTime 4WD works will transfer up to 100% of the available torque to the rear wheels (as proven by the RWD Integra done by Braille a couple of years ago).

I would say that a bit more than 10% of the torque goes to those rear wheels, no ?

The AWD system in the CR-V for the most part, routes power from the front to the back whenever a front wheel loses traction (Hence acts also kinda like a LSD, at least the results of its engagement does). There is no side to side distribution of power however. As soon as traction is restored, the system disengages and the vehicle returns to a purely FWD mode. The amount of time it takes to engage is minimal. I've watched it on slow-motion video and takes little more than a quarter turn of the tire for RT4WD to engage the rear wheels. The more slippage you have, the more power it sends to the other wheels. There is no way to lock the system as with Honda's other AWD systems like the VTM-4.

 

[vtecsir1]

I said 2500 because i see auto traders around orlando with ls swaps for anywhere 2k to 5k so...

 

[SlushboxTeggy]

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and really, you're wasting your time with the "awd". 90/10 split is pretty much useless....

You are probably confused with the RT4WD system on the earlier wagons. The way the CR-V's RealTime 4WD works will transfer up to 100% of the available torque to the rear wheels (as proven by the RWD Integra done by Braille a couple of years ago).

I would say that a bit more than 10% of the torque goes to those rear wheels, no ?

The AWD system in the CR-V for the most part, routes power from the front to the back whenever a front wheel loses traction (Hence acts also kinda like a LSD, at least the results of its engagement does). There is no side to side distribution of power however. As soon as traction is restored, the system disengages and the vehicle returns to a purely FWD mode. The amount of time it takes to engage is minimal. I've watched it on slow-motion video and takes little more than a quarter turn of the tire for RT4WD to engage the rear wheels. The more slippage you have, the more power it sends to the other wheels. There is no way to lock the system as with Honda's other AWD systems like the VTM-4.

read up on braille's build. the rear dif is welded. so no that is not the 10% you would see with a normal crv real-time awd system. the real-time awd actually makes for a shitty track car too, again proven by braille and the reason they welded the dif in the first place. ive done my homework on this conversion because i wanted it, but it is just simply not worth it.

and furthermore, perform a search. this topic has been discussed many, many times on this board.

 

[NSXguy]

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read up on braille's build. the rear dif is welded. so no that is not the 10% you would see with a normal crv real-time awd system. the real-time awd actually makes for a shitty track car too, again proven by braille and the reason they welded the dif in the first place. ive done my homework on this conversion because i wanted it, but it is just simply not worth it.

and furthermore, perform a search. this topic has been discussed many, many times on this board.

I know the rear diff is welded. The reason being to remove the viscous coupling alltogether that would not be able to sustain the continuous RWD operation. I've done my homework too and don't worry, I've searched and researched the subject and probably read most of the thread that ever dealt with the question. I have never seen so much misinformation about the CR-V RT4WD system and the 90-10% is a very common one. I currently have the transmission in the Civic and I plan on completing the rear conversion this year.

How can you say "the RTAWD actually makes for a shitty track car" ? Have you ever driven one, or are you just repeating over and over what you've read/heard about it ? The difference in my case is that I'm doing what I say and not just "dream" about it like most people n these forums. I've tested the RTAWD unit and there is no reason to believe what you see posted on these forums...

Back to my question, how much do you think it'd be worth on the market ?

 

[vtecsir1]

honestly i think you are acting like a dick head so i doubt anyone else will post in here.

 

[micah]

if people would just answer the mans question thered be no reason to act like a dick lol

i dont think hes being out of line ><

 

[SPEEDFREAK0920]

i'd say around 3.5k. i had a 92 dx hatch with a jdm ls(less than 60k) that i sold for 3.5k. it had all the bolt-ons(i/h/e/im/gears/iginitoin...) and had cf hood,tokico blues,rota slips,racing seats w/ sparco harnesses.pics should be in my gallery.just my .2 cents payce

 

[vtecsir1]

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if people would just answer the mans question thered be no reason to act like a dick lol

i dont think hes being out of line ><

i guess you didnt read the answers to his questions that he didnt like.

 

[NSXguy]

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i'd say around 3.5k. i had a 92 dx hatch with a jdm ls(less than 60k) that i sold for 3.5k. it had all the bolt-ons(i/h/e/im/gears/iginitoin...) and had cf hood,tokico blues,rota slips,racing seats w/ sparco harnesses.pics should be in my gallery.just my .2 cents payce

That's exactly the kind of feedback I need.

thank you.

 

[NSXguy]

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honestly i think you are acting like a dick head so i doubt anyone else will post in here.

If being right and factual is "acting like a dick head" to you, then yes I am being one.

But since your post is not the last one of this thread and other people still posted "in here" that makes you wrong on both counts.

Here is some educational info from Honda's own website about the 4WD RealTime system. Listen carefully to the last 20 seconds where I'm quoting "if front wheel slippage increases, so does torque applied to the real wheels". So here you have it, no 90%-10% split for this one. Maximum wheel slippage to the front wheels (i.e. disconnected front axles) will yield almost all available torque to the rear wheels.

The reason the Braille's diff is welded was because the system is designed to engage/disengage through a viscous clutch device, not made to continuously channel 100% of the available torque to the rear wheels. If left alone it would cause too much heat and self-destroy. In the 4WD application, by engaging/disengaging it affectly functions like a Limited Slip Differential for the front wheels.