GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Background:
1st gen JDM B16A all stock (10.2:1 CR vs. 10.4:1 CR gen 2)
compression test showed about 237 PSI perfectly across
3" short ram intake
cheap 4-2-1 Megan header (slightly crushed just recently)
2 1/4" straight pipe w/Magnaflow 2 1/2" muffler
converted to OBD1 w/chipped P06 running P30 basemap (untouched)
high mileage original 02 sensor and injectors off D16Z6 junk yard car
new NGK platinum plugs and new distributor (timing dead set at +16 TDC) (plugs are perfect color, look mint)
A1 LS transmission
TPS is temperamental, once a day it gets a dead spot but goes back to normal
The car doesn't like cold starts, its been better as the weather got warmer but doesn't turn over nicely. It does a few revolutions then each cylinder slowly fires one by one then it catches on and idles fine, sputters a little bit when cold. Its hard to drive when cold, sputters more until I get the RPMs over 2.5-3k. Idles very smoothly and evenly after warmed up at 800 RPM ish (tach signal is wack). It will rev up smoothly and VTEC engages strong almost all the time but its never pulled hard a day in its life. Feels like it would put down 120 WHP. I don't blame it on the long geared transmission because even in 1st gear it just revvs really high and makes lots of noise but feels very restricted. Matts stock D16A6 is more playful and torquey. I've played with a few different Honda motors and you can hear them trying their hardest when wide open and mine feels blahhh. Runs out of power at high speeds with VTEC engaged. Most people tell me they smell too much gas in the exhaust fumes, I smell it some times. Doesn't smoke, only get a little black/blueish between 7-8K.
If I had a datalogging cable could I plug it in to a laptop and see what the ECU is doing with CROME or Uberdata? (Have both programs on a disc) Or do I need to invest in a wideband and Hondata conversion?
1st gen JDM B16A all stock (10.2:1 CR vs. 10.4:1 CR gen 2)
compression test showed about 237 PSI perfectly across
3" short ram intake
cheap 4-2-1 Megan header (slightly crushed just recently)
2 1/4" straight pipe w/Magnaflow 2 1/2" muffler
converted to OBD1 w/chipped P06 running P30 basemap (untouched)
high mileage original 02 sensor and injectors off D16Z6 junk yard car
new NGK platinum plugs and new distributor (timing dead set at +16 TDC) (plugs are perfect color, look mint)
A1 LS transmission
TPS is temperamental, once a day it gets a dead spot but goes back to normal
The car doesn't like cold starts, its been better as the weather got warmer but doesn't turn over nicely. It does a few revolutions then each cylinder slowly fires one by one then it catches on and idles fine, sputters a little bit when cold. Its hard to drive when cold, sputters more until I get the RPMs over 2.5-3k. Idles very smoothly and evenly after warmed up at 800 RPM ish (tach signal is wack). It will rev up smoothly and VTEC engages strong almost all the time but its never pulled hard a day in its life. Feels like it would put down 120 WHP. I don't blame it on the long geared transmission because even in 1st gear it just revvs really high and makes lots of noise but feels very restricted. Matts stock D16A6 is more playful and torquey. I've played with a few different Honda motors and you can hear them trying their hardest when wide open and mine feels blahhh. Runs out of power at high speeds with VTEC engaged. Most people tell me they smell too much gas in the exhaust fumes, I smell it some times. Doesn't smoke, only get a little black/blueish between 7-8K.
If I had a datalogging cable could I plug it in to a laptop and see what the ECU is doing with CROME or Uberdata? (Have both programs on a disc) Or do I need to invest in a wideband and Hondata conversion?