It was a roll cage kit that I got online. From the pics you cant really see but the rear is fully caged and connected to the front (you had to climb over the bars to get in or out of the car) all fully wielded to the body. Made it super stiff, it could rip threw turns. I have seen people over heat rotors from heavy braking, towing, driver error is really common. Not trying to disagree JME and I have been doing it for a while now. Other things can warp rotors as well, like bad hub bearings, over tightening lug nuts, stuck caliper slides or piston. Correctly functioning brakes with a good driver no should not warp, but I have manage to put enough heat into blanks after a few good runs that have heat spotted and micro cracked the rotors. I have even had brake fade toward the end of a hard run, it was pretty scary lets just say I needed to replace my home made diffuser and my shorts, ended up in some dirt when the brakes faded going into a turn. But that was all in the pads I was using at the time, turns out the Auto Zone pads that came on the car not so good for race day. Glad to hear you got the motor issues worked out, hope your bottom end goes for 100k+.