B16's Time Trial Road Racing Del Sol Overhaul Thread!!!
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YOU ARE FUCKING AWESOME!
This is kick ass! At Infineon no less.
Ok, now I need to go buy Forza 4 so you can sell this to me.
its a CR-X del sol that is why it is RHD... they dont usually put in the pussy americanized versions of automobiles.
I did the same thing on my LS Vtec. Since I am using a newer B18B1 block the PCV was in the valve cover, Vtec valve covers dont have a PCV valve in them as we all know. I used H22 Type S oil cooler fittings, OEM Honda part bought from dealer and made a vent can. I burn no oil and have no issues with crank case pressure. This methods works really well even for high boost. Cost under $50. Endyn also makes a nice vent kit.through the VC vents hes going to install. you have the same thing on your motor. the passages from the head lead to the block. its all relatively the same and doesnt really matter where you vent from.
i installed nipples on the back of my motor to vent the pressure from though .
see:
you can see where the black box normally is, is blocked off and there are 2 large nipples screwed into where there are normally plugs. these nipples are vented to a catch can.
Yes you should cut rotors any time you replace the pads. This gives the new pads a good surface to break in. I only like to turn my rotors once because of the heat issue as they get thinner. I also run Baer slotted drilled rotors to remove the heat when braking hard or continuous heavy braking. For racing I normally just replace the rotors along with the pads as the get hot spots and warped sometimes and the cost is not that much for safe brakes. JMO
No, you do not need to turn them with each pad change. You should if you're changing pad type.
And there is no reason to run slotted or drilled rotors. My race car gets better braking with solid vented rotors.
You should not get getting any hot spots or warpage after a session. Unless you're sitting still with your foot on the brake cooking your rotors.
I never turn rotors any more when replacing pads - on the street car, truck, mini-bike or racing go-karts. Turning because they warp means there's a problem to solve relative to warping. Should not be warping rotors. Turning to "seat" the new pads is not needed - they just seat a bit slower - but, seat just fine on street or race track applications.
I was raised old school to turn rotors or drums to seat new shoes or pads. Then read guys weren't turning. Removing metal is a bad thing on brake rotors or drums, especially in a performance application. So, about 10 years ago, I quit turning them and guess what? Works fine. With racing karts, nobody ever turns rotors - and I'm talking 100+mph karts.
But, I ALWAYS trim my cigars before lighting up (they draw much better!):
I was raised old school to turn rotors or drums to seat new shoes or pads. Then read guys weren't turning. Removing metal is a bad thing on brake rotors or drums, especially in a performance application. So, about 10 years ago, I quit turning them and guess what? Works fine. With racing karts, nobody ever turns rotors - and I'm talking 100+mph karts.
But, I ALWAYS trim my cigars before lighting up (they draw much better!):
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Yup. Laziest way- don't do anything with bedding in more aggressive pads- the pads will clean the old stuff off during the bedding process. When going back to street pads, just go around the rotor with scotch-brite or medium grit sandpaper, then bed in the street pads.
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