First rebuild atempt

[b16stalyun]

just called a shop to do the rebuild they said about 2 grand. thats them getting all the parts , nothing performance and using the old rods and pistons.

what do yall think?

 

[INJEN78]

just called a shop to do the rebuild they said about 2 grand. thats them getting all the parts , nothing performance and using the old rods and pistons.

what do yall think?

tell that shop to bang their ass...that is crazy

 

[b16stalyun]

yea i thought they were crazy too. its shops like that that make it hard for people to have fun with their car...

now...my motor now probly has about 100k miles on it. the previous owner of the motor gave it some hell as it already burns some oil. (i do race it now and then but most of the time i dont even hit vtec while im driving it and my vtec is at 4500rpm ..

so, becuase i dont know much about turbo setups . can you arange me a shopping list for my turbo so i dont buy the wrong stuff.

wont i need stuff like turbo cam's, special ecu, block guard, etc? or will this setup be good enough to just put on and have my ecu tuned.

now i know you said those ebay turbo kits are crap. but it looks like the kit comes with everything needed. it looks like the turbo manifold is crap. what if i just bought a better manifold and used one of those small turbo setups?
and why is it those kits are crap. whats different about them.

thanks

 

[b16stalyun]

ok, im having alittle confusion on this. which bearings do i need?
Honda Automotive Parts

and should i go ahead and get the head gaskets rebuild kit too?

 

[b16stalyun]

alright, ive read about people going all green in their engine? if not ill basically have to open up the block and see what they are then order them.
talking about bearings, what does taiho and daido mean?

-BEARING D, MAIN (UPPER) (GREEN) (DAIDO)
-BEARING D, MAIN (UPPER) (GREEN) (TAIHO)

also, whats your opinion on nippon racing parts? i saw on the hondaparts site they use some nippon stuff.
eBay Express: JDM B16B Civic Type R Pistons Rings Race Bearings B16A - Description

do you think that kit looks pretty sturdy and will work for me even though i have b16a and this is for a b16b

 

[b16stalyun]

that kit that i pointed out from nippon comes with king bearings. im gonna get some eagle rods to go with this. so this will cost me probly 1 grand in parts.

i got a guy who is said he would do the job for me for 1 grand. i provide all parts, he will take care of machining and do a 3-angle valve job .

sounds reasonable?

 

[b16stalyun]

i was gonna get eagle rods because ive always heard those are the first things to give out. i felt like if it would make my motor safer to race if i decided to. would you say i probably dont need them?

so I probly need to get the motor apart first then go buy the bearings after i check the clearances?

is it worth going with the b16b hi-comp pistons in my b16a? what kind of gain would i get (to decide if its worth it)

 

[YBLEGAL]

all this talk i read through and it still seems like you havnt diffinativly chosin boost or all motor. unless you want to rebuild your motor again, pick one BEFORE you start buying parts. i wouldnt see forged rods for an all-motor build as being benificial. B16B pistons will up your compression, and that's only good for all-motor as well. the overbore by .020 would make the sleaves weaker, and thus i wouldnt do that for turbo. sleave it with cast iron sleaves if you choose turbo and your going that far. you need to make a decison. you cant efficively have a built all-motor/turbo engine.

and yet, i have no hands on experiance. take it as you will

 

[b16stalyun]

the reason i said 200whp is becuase i thought that would be rather easy with these motors all natural.

i apreciate yall givin me a hand, i got a haynes manual around here. im gonna dig into that and see what i can find. my problem is i want to get more power while im in the block since a turbo setup and rebuild isnt plausable for my budget. I only have 1500$ on this rebuild.

can you tell me how you would do this build . I keep asking alot of questions on different scenarios and they dont seem to be getting me anywhere. (i am learning though).

 

[INJEN78]

heres my question,,,is the motor in NEED of a rebuild, or is it something you WANT to do,to learn?
if it doesnt need rebuilt,then turbo it,

 

[b16stalyun]

i feel like it does, the previous owner gave it hell and i race it every now and then. its starting to burn oil and the motor probly has 100k miles on it(which really isnt alot but it IS burning oil).

like i said im more worried about the car being dependable but i figure since im going to be in the block getting it rebuilt just spend a few extra bux and get more power/durability out of it.

i do not want to turbo the motor if the motor is burning oil, that would just make things worse creating more blow by.
remember i am trying to keep this less than 1000$ in parts.

what really is confusing is, why would they sell those king race bearings if you have to have the bearings match up exactly. that kit comes with all green bearings and you may have to have different color bearings. someone explain how they are selling these kits knowing this.

 

[b16stalyun]

hey i found this reading the forums

1-1.5k - up compression w/ b16 pistons, rebuild bottom end, rebuild head, port/polish

2-2.5k - see above + cams and valve train

3-3.5k - now, you can go a bunch of different ways... h22 swap, b18c swap, small turbo on the stock motor... but you say its shot, so again, im going to bump this up a $$ level.

4-5k - small turbo, rebuilt bottom end, rods/pistons, vafc hack

if you're looking to spend more than 5... i'll go on. let me know

 

[90DATeggy]

yea i did my own fuel pump and timing after i did my fuel pump my timing was outta wack it cost me $40 to get it done again but thats only becuase i knew some buddies of mine who did a bunch load of stuff to hondas.i also didnt use a engine hoaste for my ae86 sohc to rotarty and that was a bytch to get the turbo 2 rotarty in that little engine bay..it was a nightmare trust me dont short your self out on this on man..u wanna finish on time and do it right the frist time.

 

[b16stalyun]

Why are there generic alternatives to anything?

Before assuming there's a problem with your engine, do a compression and/or leak down test.

Yes, that's an all-motor build that won't see anywhere close to 200whp and won't like having a turbo put on it.

that setup will be good for my budget. at least this way i will get what i want, fresh engine and more power. and when i get the money to do a turbo setup ill build the block as-such.

i didnt think king bearings were generic. i thought that was a good brand name

 

[INJEN78]

that setup will be good for my budget. at least this way i will get what i want, fresh engine and more power. and when i get the money to do a turbo setup ill build the block as-such.

i didnt think king bearings were generic. i thought that was a good brand name

your missing the point,you can only build for turbo or all motor,
so pick one and stick with it,turbo will pose for more power,with about the same money you will need for n/a,,,you really dont want to waste money building an all motor if your going to just turn around and redo everything when you get more money

 

[b16stalyun]

Would the term "off brand" make more sense to you? They make them in all Green because that's the middle size and should get most "within" clearances. Like I said, if that's really how you want to build your engine that's all on you. Me, myself, I choose exact clearances and spend the extra money to get them.

Why build your engine twice? Just make up your mind and go with it. You don't need the power right now, you just want it.

well i do want to do it right. that just confused me when you said in one of your other posts

You have to read your block and crank, then compare that to the chart in your repair manual, to find out what bearings Honda put in your engine. If you're going for custom clearances, you throw that out the window and Platigage with a brand new bearing...Green, the middle size, is usually the best choice there. They go in order of size with A being the most thick and providing the smallest clearance, it matches up to either Black or Blue...I don't remember which one right off hand.

just had me confused is all.
if i decide to go with a turbo setup later. could i still rebuild my motor and just use low-comp pistons? and then turbo the motor when i get all the $ together? or do you have to do it all at once.

 

[YBLEGAL]

right because green is like the average size. for exact tolerances for each individual bearing, the size might vary. due to normal wear, the clearances can be different between each of them. you could be lazy and go all green size and thus have a possibility for spinning a bearing or more, or take the time to measure each, and buy the correct size bearing for each to give the correct clearance. i'd take the time to measure...

 

[YBLEGAL]

it's best to do it all at one time. dont forget cams for NA are different than cams for FI. pistons, rods, cams, possibly springs/retainers, etc would all need to be changed to better compliment boost.

 

[b16stalyun]

honestly i think i would be happier with a turbo setup later down the road.

during this rebuild would i have to do all the turbo rebuild stuff like sleeving, forged r/p, etc?

 

[YBLEGAL]

you can do forced induction the first time now. or spend the money on NA now only to spend more money in the long run when you rebuild it again later. either way at some point the total cost of the turbo system will become aparent. you dont necessairly have to sleeve it for moderate street power.

I would go turbo now if i was inside my motor and replacing things like pistons and cams anyway.