B16a1 In Ek

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I know this is a weird combination and not recommended, but it's already been started and close to finish.

i had a b16a2 in my 96 ek, but the head gasket blew. I took it to a local "performance" shop and they said if i let them keep the motor they'll give me a b16a1 long block and labor for free. Just for reference, I have the following parts: 96 DX harness with HAsport overlay harness (for the extra wires), ITR intake manifold, OBD2 distributor (for the obd1 motor) OBD2-1 clip and a p28. Basically everything around the motor is obd2 but managed by an obd1 p28 ecu. The problem with the swap is that they cannot just plug in a diagnostic computer and see what the problem is because it's such a cross-breeded setup. OBD2 car, OBD1 ecu, OBD0 motor.

I know that the ignition system have no problems at all. The problem lies in the A/F system. I bought a Apex'i VAFC but it doesn't help the richness at all. I test drove it today and it runs like total shit, around 1000-2000k rpm the engine is running extremely rich, the whole car stutters with black smoke comin out of the exhaust, but at full throttle or anything over 4000k rpm the engine runs like a champ.

all the sensors are supposed wired, but the shop is going over the pins to see if there's anything wrong with the setup. The only thing I have that's OBD0 is the throttle body, and from valve cover to oil pan, everything else is OBD2.

Can the OBD0 TPS sensor be the reason? there's only one vaccum hose on the obd0 throttle body, tried to plug that somewhere but it doesn't seem to matter.

The shop and I have tried pretty much everything, tried a obd2 b16a ecu and it runs the same.

It's too late to swap the engine for an obd2, for one I'm flat broke and I've been out of a car for a long time now.

If ANYONE might know what the problem might be...please help me.
If you have an OBD II car, and running a OBD I ECU, You will need an OBD I distrubtor and OBD I Fuel Injectors for the b16a. All the other sensors will work with the Obd I computer.
I thought the injectors were the same??

ignition has no problems running so i'm sure the distributor's fine, but im running a 96 wiring harness so i can't use a obd1 distributor.

my main question is:

1. my obd0 motor shouldnt be an issue because everything touches the long block is obd2? (i.e. intake manifold, distributor, wiring harness, etc).

2. can the obd0 throttle body alone be the problem? (in the TPS sensor?) or is it in the wiring somewhere
shouldn't the shop be posting here?
i mean- you paid them for the motor for an even trade and are putting it in right? if it doesn't run, it should be their problem.

you are getting butt fucked. considering they are making 1500 off you for a $60 head gasket.

but hey- that was your choice.


the EASIEST way to do this is to start over and first convert your car to obd1 via an obd1 ecu (such as a chicpped p28 or a p30) with a ecu conversion harness (skunk2, hasport, etc make them for about $200)

with your car ready to see obd1, change the distributor to obd1 along with the injectors.
your call will run if you do it this way.

as far as your concern for the obd of the things on the IM and TPS, it doesn't matter. if you figured out a way to plug it in, as the plugs are different, it will work. thats the really only bitch part.
they're doing everything for free, blown head gasket motor for a motor and labor. they're a relatively new shop and i think the mechanic is more into domestics than imports, but he's "trying" to get into imports, a 50 yr old guy.

i already have a obd2-obd1 coversion harness and am running a obd1 p28.

i will have them get obd1 injectors, but as for the distributor i have yet another question:
don't obd2 cars such as ITR, SI's use the coversion clip and still run good without changing the distributor to obd1?

thanks for the help though
Originally posted by word@Feb 11 2003, 12:19 PM
they're doing everything for free, blown head gasket motor for a motor and labor.

A head gasket is a little piece of material which costs.. like B said.. about $60.
yea but the labor they were gonna charge me for head gasket change plus new head bolts was 400 which i didn't have at the time
you should have done it yourself dude. you can pull a head off relatively easy.
what was teh shops name so we can all stay the fuck away from it.
Originally posted by pills_PMD@Feb 11 2003, 12:40 PM
you should have done it yourself dude. you can pull a head off relatively easy.
what was teh shops name so we can all stay the fuck away from it.


Buy a helms manual and unbolt that bitch!

You can get like aerospace rated valvecover bolts for like less than $100.

But since it already happened... really it should be the shop reseaching this, not you. And if they can't figure it out, tell them to give you your motor back.