B16's Time Trial Road Racing Del Sol Overhaul Thread!!!

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ahh i see.

i'm on my 3rd set of HP pads with brembo blanks (276mm upgrade, from a GSX) rotors have never been turned. i just dont believe in that...
 
Ya, the DTC-60's are a bit more aggressive than HP's. They eat rotors for lunch. :) But damn do they stop good when at temp!
 
Some incar from the weekend.
augThill - YouTube

The incar stuff is always cool - thanks for taking the time to post it. There ain't nuthin like hauling ass around a race track...... Spins are wierd. Every time I spin one of the karts out, it feels like I'm going to leave the pavement, fly across the infield grass and get slammed into a hay bale or strained through a chain link fence - most of the time it's like you did and I stop still on the pavement. It's still a wierd feeling.

Me in the Rotax 125cc powered VMT setup for bracket racing with front brakes and full gauge set including EGT monitoring.

Rotax.jpg
 
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ahh i see.

i'm on my 3rd set of HP pads with brembo blanks (276mm upgrade, from a GSX) rotors have never been turned. i just dont believe in that...

Why not turn the rotors? It just takes off a few thou. And you have a fresh surface were your pads bite.
 
Why not turn the rotors? It just takes off a few thou. And you have a fresh surface were your pads bite.

If they're not warped, there's no need to cut... and if you have to turn the rotors, a lot of time you take off more material than you want, and your rotor heat capacity goes down significantly- making cracks more likely later.
 
^^^ What he said. Never turn em. If they warp and need to be straightened there are other problems - that's just fixing a symptom. Pads will seat fine without turning - just takes a bit longer - but, not much more time to seat without turning.
 
The incar stuff is always cool - thanks for taking the time to post it. There ain't nuthin like hauling ass around a race track...... Spins are wierd. Every time I spin one of the karts out, it feels like I'm going to leave the pavement, fly across the infield grass and get slammed into a hay bale or strained through a chain link fence - most of the time it's like you did and I stop still on the pavement. It's still a wierd feeling.

Me in the Rotax 125cc powered VMT setup for bracket racing with front brakes and full gauge set including EGT monitoring.

Rotax.jpg
I want to try out some karting like that. Looks like a freakin blast. My spin did not keep me on the tarmac, I went backwards into the dirt (just barely.. :p )

OOh, how much? and what do blank rotors sell for; for that kit?

Why not turn the rotors? It just takes off a few thou. And you have a fresh surface were your pads bite.
The rotors are $13 a pop. I usually just toss them out with the worn pads.

^^^ What he said. Never turn em. If they warp and need to be straightened there are other problems - that's just fixing a symptom. Pads will seat fine without turning - just takes a bit longer - but, not much more time to seat without turning.

Ya, this set bed in within 1 lap on just a pad swap. But since they're super cheap rotors I think I will just continue to toss them out with pad changes.
 
^^^ You outta turn the rotors in for lifetime warranty exchange! ROFL :cool: Take 'em out and lay waste to them and return for exchange......

The karts are fun - they will give you a real ass whippin - it's a pretty violent ride. I have to wear a ribtect vest to handle it or the pain in the ribs kicks my old ass.

http://www.ribtect.com/
 
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LOL, the ones I got do not have the exchange.. They used to but don't seem to offer that anymore. They would be like, "wtf you doing to these things?" lol
 
LOL, the ones I got do not have the exchange.. They used to but don't seem to offer that anymore. They would be like, "wtf you doing to these things?" lol

I returned four autozone lifetime radiators in one summer. After the second return with blown end caps they really started getting pissy. That turbo cr-v really needed a decent cooling system...

OE-is rotors are fine, they're cheap and as long as you replace them often you're fine. I've never used anything but OE rotors and I've never had a problem stopping.
 
I've been using these same rotors on this car on track for the past 7 years without issue.... Of course I always replaced them with pad changes.. :p
 
OOh, how much? and what do blank rotors sell for; for that kit?

PM me and I'll shoot you a phone number. Or I'll just shoot you a phone number. :)

I'll see if I can find a blank price. You have rear discs right?
 
wow $13 each for rotors! i dont blame you then for using them. :thumbsup: easy price for the peace of mind.

i dont turn the rotors on the mirage with pad changes because i dont really need to. 2200lb car with brakes made for a 2800+lb car, and the rotors are nearly an inch thick. the back ones should last forever though, even though i changed out the prop valve with one from a GSX. i dont think its any different from the mirage...

and i agree with what was said above. if you have any warpage issues you can always feel it when the brakes heat up a little bit, and its time for replacement asap. i've barely even developed a lip on the outside of the rotor after 3 sets of hawk pads.


those wilwoods look so nice!
 
Those wilwoods are sexy. Damn. I'd rock them on the CR-Z just for the bling-blang factor.

They look like there's enough pad surface there to make a difference too.
 
i dont turn the rotors on the mirage with pad changes because i dont really need to. 2200lb car with brakes made for a 2800+lb car, and the rotors are nearly an inch thick. the back ones should last forever though, even though i changed out the prop valve with one from a GSX. i dont think its any different from the mirage...

and i agree with what was said above. if you have any warpage issues you can always feel it when the brakes heat up a little bit, and its time for replacement asap. i've barely even developed a lip on the outside of the rotor after 3 sets of hawk pads.


those wilwoods look so nice!
Well on a street car with the HP pad ya you wont need to swap or turn rotors so often. My car is 2500lbs with me in it at race weight with GSR brakes. I have ducting running to center of the rotors as well to keep temps down. I think I'm at the limit of these brakes now, but they are still working pretty well. Funny enough I've changed the rear pads ONCE on this car. lol, they are OE pads in the rear, they barely get used. I'm thinking of upping the rear to a more aggressive pad to see how that helps braking.

And don't confuse warpage with pad transfer. Sometimes you just get too much material transferred from the pad to the rotor and it needs to be "scrubbed off" by re-bedding the pads. This happens more often than rotor warpage.
 
More aggressive in the rear for you!?

don't want you spinning out from locking the rears lol

I would say go bigger up front and then run something more aggressive in the rear. Are you running a 40/40 or an adjustable bias?
 
More aggressive in the rear for you!?

don't want you spinning out from locking the rears lol

I would say go bigger up front and then run something more aggressive in the rear. Are you running a 40/40 or an adjustable bias?

LOL, thanks for the vote of confidence!

I'm running whatever the stock valve is on a 94 del sol vtec. I'm guessing its a 40/40. I am also using a 15/16 MC from an old EF Sedan on my stock booster.
 
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