bringing the CRX back to the track build/thread

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
first, if this thread is not properly placed, a mod can feel free to move it. i put it here because this is a track car. if its better suited in the restoration forum then so be it.

so i have been out of the car modding/racing scene for a while. i was finishing up my degree at college and trying to find a job in my field (Aerospace). but now that i have a job and have a good bit of income coming my way (unfortunately not much time) im going to work on getting this car back in track condition.

brief history:
this car started out as a DD back in high school. i bought it from a guy in NJ with a stock B18C1 swap. it had a wings west kit (unpainted) an fiberglass cowl hood (unpainted) and some lowered suspension and 17" Konig wheels. it was pretty ricey, but hey i was in high school, lol. i drove it around for 1-2 years, making some small changes, then ended up getting stolen during my first semester at college. i expected the worst, but got lucky. they stole the wheels and sound system, and most of the body kit. along with trashing the interior and stealing some other random things. so i started rebuilding it since the car still had all its main parts. it then turned into a full on track car. over the next few years i changed pretty much everything on the car, sold the engine and rebuilt a brand new one for it. replaced much of the suspension, and completely gutted it minus the seats and dash. i built

car's current state: 91 CRX Si
ENGINE:
B18C block, stripped down, hot tanked, bored (+0.25mm),honed
P73-00 JDM ITR +0.25mm pistons
P72 head with portflow headwork
brand new seals throughout the engine
Skunk2 stage2 cams and gears
Portflow springs and Ti retainers
SMSP header jet-hot coated black
ITR manifold fitted to GSR head
IB prototype velocity stack
HAsport billet aluminum mounts
Thermal R&D catback with straight pipe to header
mini NRG-CELL battery with mount box custom mounted on front frame rail
chipped P28 OBDI

TRANNY:
B16 cable trans

SUSPENSION:
GC coils (600f/500r)
GC top hats
Tokico Illumina shocks
ES poly bushings in many locations (mainly LCAs, sway bar connections)
ST 22mm rear sway bar
ingalls front/rear camber kit
Full-Race traction bars

WHEEL/TIRE/BRAKES:
GSR "fat five" 15x6" wheels
Kuhmo Ecsta MX 205/50/15 tires
10.2" 90-91 Civic EX front rotors
Modified ITR calipers
HPS pads front / regular pads rear

now the car has been like this for a few years, but ive scarcely driven it. ive had it to a few track events but i want to make some improvements before i take it back out. first thing i wanted to replace was the ingalls front camber kit. its squeaks, and its hard to adjust. so i picked up some Skunk2 front upper A-arms. this is kind of a double whammy, ill replace the camber adjustment and replace the upper ball joint at the same time.

next, i wanted to replace the wheel studs. one of them is kind of loose, and i just dont feel safe with it. plus i wanted the ability to run some spacers (if i need to) without having to worry about thread engagement. so i picked up some ARP extended studs. this means i have to disassemble the front suspension and press them out. while i have it apart might as well replace the front wheel bearings and lower ball joints while im at it, so those have been ordered too.

lastly, the car is suffering from rust pretty bad. the doors and the front fenders are rusting, as well as the passenger rear quarter. im planning on replacing the doors and fenders if/when i can find some that are straight with no damage/rust. and every fender or door i see for sale does not have the trim for some reason, so i just ordered all new trim from honda and will put them on whatever doors/fenders i get to replace mine. i only ordered the middle trim, as i can reuse my lower rocker panel and lower door plastics. i am missing the rear quarter trim anyway lol. the only other thing left that really isnt a replaceable part is the rear quarter. id would like to get it fixed properly by having it cut out and a fresh piece welded in, but how much am i looking at for this repair? i dont need it painted, just rewelded, cleaned up and sanded with some primer or something. ill probably do a rattlecan job on the body later.

the next thing i want to do is replace the wheels. im going to go with some 15x7" wheels but not sure which. rota slipstreams are an option, and probably the best for a track car since they are light and cheap, but im not sure, they are pretty generic looking (again, racecar, i know lol) but im still undecided. opinions?

ill update this thread when i actually get some parts and get them installed.

heres a few pics from a few years ago. some Summit Point action shots and an engine bay money shot lol.
0517.jpg

track.PNG

0945.jpg

DSC02452.jpg


Update 3/20/2010: Recieved some parts. Installed some ES bushings
Update 4/07/2010: Cryo-Stop rotors and Hawk HP+ pads
Update 7/08/2010: Passenger Side pretty much done
Update 7/24/2010: ES shifter bushings and little stuff
Update 7/28/2010: Lets rebuild the steering rack! and plans
Update 8/03/2010: Steering rack half assembled, change in plans for brake setup
Update 8/04/2010: Steering rack assembled/installed, new wheels mock up
Update 8/19/2010: Wilwoods installed, shock combo prep
Update 8/27/2010: front spring/shock combo assembled
Update 8/28/2010: First batch of spherical bushings arrive
Update 9/05/2010: Installed some bushings, built rear endlinks, rod end boots, cut drivers toe link out
Update 9/22/2010: painted wheels
Update 9/25/2010: second batch of spherical bushings
Update 9/26/2010: fully assembled rear suspension
IMG_0080.JPG
 
Last edited:

OGMatt

Not a real OG lol
15x7 Enkei RPF1 then Falken Azeins.

You could just patch up the body and spray paint it but if you followed through and did a Mayco job or something you wouldn't have to worry about it again.

my 2 c.
 

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
Rpf1s would be ideal. But since it has the inner radius of a 14" wheel. I'm worried that they won't clear my brake setup. I haven't priced them out in a while either, how much are they?
 

Matts96HB

.
Moderator
VIP
if youre going for cheap and light then rotas seem to be a decent option, but ive also heard some horror stories about them. and like you said its a track car, so that might not be a great idea.

nice car though. looks like itd be a fun drive on the track :thumbsup:

i have a quick question, i see your catch can you just have routed to the top of the VC, is that the only line you have run?
 

TurboMirage

That’s how you get ants
VIP
the other side of the catch can should go into the intake, to make it proper. blowby is caught in the can, and the gasses pass back into the combustion chamber.
 

Briansol

Admins
Admin
VIP
Glad to see this back on the road again !!
 

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
I have 2 barbs on the back of the block that tee into a single line and into the can. So the crankcase and valvecover are both vented into that can, which is in turn vented to atmoshpere through the filter on top. This way no oil vapors at all make it to the intake stream, only fresh air through the filter. Works well I think. I'll get some pics of the setup.
 

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
Oh and I have to get it emissions tested. They were due like 10 months ago lol. I have to install a cat, get it tested, then go to the DMV and get the tags renewed.
 

TurboMirage

That’s how you get ants
VIP
I have 2 barbs on the back of the block that tee into a single line and into the can. So the crankcase and valvecover are both vented into that can, which is in turn vented to atmoshpere through the filter on top. This way no oil vapors at all make it to the intake stream, only fresh air through the filter. Works well I think. I'll get some pics of the setup.

would make sense since your charcoal canister is on the back of the block right? i have mine going back to the intake tube since that is the way it is stock.
 

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
DSC02395.jpg

DSC02386.jpg


you can kind of see how its routed in these pics. the intake and one block port tee up to one connection on the catch can, and the other block port to the other on the catch can.
 

Matts96HB

.
Moderator
VIP
ahh thanks for the pics. i was looking at that moroso can yesterday on ebay :lol:

car looks good mang :thumbsup:
 

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
update 3/20/10:

today i got most of the parts ive ordered.

trim all the way around the center of the car, brand new from honda.
2 front wheel bearings, brand new from honda
2 front lower ball joints, brand new from honda
ARP extended wheel studs
Skunk2 Pro-Series upper control arms (camber adjustment)

IMG_0078.JPG


i had some Energy suspension upper control arm bushings laying around that i never used. the Skunk2 upper arms have stock bushings, figured it couldnt hurt and i have a press to make short work of the job :) so i pressed out the stock bushings and popped in the new ES bushings. but one snag, i apparently lost one of the bushings so i could only get 3 of the 4 done. im trying to find a fourth bushing, so if anyone has one (part#3280), ill take it, or the whole set of 4 if i have to.

IMG_0079.JPG
IMG_00791.JPG

IMG_00802.JPG

IMG_0080.JPG
 
Last edited:

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
a few weeks ago, i contacted Dave from SMSP, the guy who built my header. when he built the header, i also had him make me up a test pipe to fit up to my Thermal catback exhaust. this was like 2 years ago. but since i am up for emissions testing, i needed a cat made up that would bolt in. so i asked Dave to make me a cat that would fit from the header to the catback and reduce from 2.5" to 2.25". luckily i had my old email when i gave him the measurements for the test pipe so i used the same measurement. and he made it perfectly :) the new cat bolted right up.

now i have to go get the tags renewed so i can drive it to the emissions place lol.
 

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
update 4/7/2010:

ordered some more parts from TireRack.com.

Cryo-Stop rotors (10.2" front, stock 9.2" rear)
Hawk HP+ front pads (just gonna use some regular pads in rear)

IMG_0107.JPG

IMG_0108.JPG


now i normally wouldnt care about cryogenically treated rotors, but they werent that much, and i more bought them for the corrosion protection on the hats and vanes. and the HP+ pads should be sweet.

i also got some new(er) front fenders. they arent perfect, but are MUCH better than my current fenders. im also going up to PA on saturday to pick up some new doors. the main reson for replacing the fenders and doors is to get rid of the rust. mine are in pretty bad shape. im planing on just cleaning the fenders up, rolling them and the rears, and getting a MAACO job on the whole car. its a track car so it doesnt have to be perfect, but nothing wrong with cleaning up the looks while im at it.

these wheels will be next on the list. 15x7 +42, 12.8lbs and best of all $89/ea. :D

trm_c1_lg_ci3_l.jpg
 

E_SolSi

Member of the 20 nut club
Moderator
VIP
i have the HP+
they stop REALLY well
they are noisy just about all the damn time squeaking or squealing unless you are ON them
they make a BIG damn mess (lots of rotor dust)

i fucking love them :)
 

GSRCRXsi

Super Moderator
VIP
yea ive heard conflicting stuff about the HP+. some people say they are quiet, some say they are noisy. but everyone says they are a great performer so i figured id give them a shot.
 
Top