D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?
- Thread starter 93civicracer
- Start date
- Replies 396
- Views 30K
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Ok..how do I do that? Lol I was prepared for an engine swap but not this kind of mess..
And also can I get help for this from someone?
Is the connection circled in yellow vtec? If it is then I don't gotta worry about wiring it? My car's a 93.
And what the hell is the one in red? It only has 1 wire in it but my harness didn't have a plug for it. Need some heeeeellp.
And also can I get help for this from someone?
Is the connection circled in yellow vtec? If it is then I don't gotta worry about wiring it? My car's a 93.
And what the hell is the one in red? It only has 1 wire in it but my harness didn't have a plug for it. Need some heeeeellp.
Well I can't really tell in the picture. If that first plug cirrcled in yellow is coming off of the vtec solenoid, then it must be vtec. My car is a 93' and it was not wired for vtec. I had to run wires from this plug to the appropriate pins on the ecu.
What do the wires from that other plug go to?
What do the wires from that other plug go to?
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
I'll have to take another look at the other plug in red. The plug circled in yellow is going into what I believe is the vtec solenoid but I wouldn't know for sure, the VTS is connector is usually green right? Cause that's the color the plug with the black and green wires is going into.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Then I guess my vtec solenoid was already wired? Lol I haven't even revved it since switching ecu's so I don't know if I have vtec yet, but that other plug I have half-boxed in red is 1 wire that's probably the only thing keeping me from having vtec if I don't have it I'll test it tomorrow.
Another thing...it's weird the problem I'm having keeps changing. When I first started it up after the swap, it had a really shitty idle. Then after fucking with the intake manifolds and tb's it kept changing. It would idle fine then only get jumpy for a few rpms after idle then a little higher revs and it's fine for the rest of the rpm band. Then later, it did it at idle again, then it started idling fine, and here's where I'm at now... It idle's normal, and the problem is barely even there now at the rpms after idle...
Could it be that I just have to drive it around a little more to get it to break in? It's been getting better and better. And my cel could just be the vtec.
Another thing...it's weird the problem I'm having keeps changing. When I first started it up after the swap, it had a really shitty idle. Then after fucking with the intake manifolds and tb's it kept changing. It would idle fine then only get jumpy for a few rpms after idle then a little higher revs and it's fine for the rest of the rpm band. Then later, it did it at idle again, then it started idling fine, and here's where I'm at now... It idle's normal, and the problem is barely even there now at the rpms after idle...
Could it be that I just have to drive it around a little more to get it to break in? It's been getting better and better. And my cel could just be the vtec.
Last edited:
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Yea that 2-wire plug into the vtec solenoid is there and wired, but not the other 1 wire plug I guess I gotta do that one myself.
Idle air valves? You mean those 2 lines going into the back of the IM from the bottom?
timing check - tomorrow for sure
ecu is the p08 I checked it
Idle air valves? You mean those 2 lines going into the back of the IM from the bottom?
timing check - tomorrow for sure
ecu is the p08 I checked it
The iacv is located on the back side of the intake manifold. It has 2 coolant hoses going to it as well as 1 wiring connector. Take it off and clean it out with some carb cleaner.
The fitv is on the bottom of the throttle body. It too has 2 coolant lines, but is totally mechanical (no wires). The easiest way to get it off is to pull the throttle body. Take off the fitv, and take off the front cover. Clean it out, and make sure the plastic piece with the valve is screwed in all the way.
The fitv is on the bottom of the throttle body. It too has 2 coolant lines, but is totally mechanical (no wires). The easiest way to get it off is to pull the throttle body. Take off the fitv, and take off the front cover. Clean it out, and make sure the plastic piece with the valve is screwed in all the way.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
OK..after doing some googling I think I found out why I can't get my ecu to display the codes. I DID have the wires right, one just happens to be green/white instead of black, the other brown. But I was starting the engine and not just leaving it in the on position. So I'm checking that again today now that I have the p08 installed.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
I got the ecu codes:
Code 14 - IAC valve
Code 21 - VTEC solenoid valve
Code 22 - VTEC oil pressure switch
Code 10 - IAT sensor
I can understand the vtec, but what can I do about the idle air control valve and the intake air temp sensor?
Code 14 - IAC valve
Code 21 - VTEC solenoid valve
Code 22 - VTEC oil pressure switch
Code 10 - IAT sensor
I can understand the vtec, but what can I do about the idle air control valve and the intake air temp sensor?
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Those 2 electrical plugs from the back of the IM? My shop teacher told me the IAT is supposed to be in the air intake pipe when I took my car to the shop an hour ago. I'll check that for sure tomorrow I couldn't do it today.
And I've got more problems...the oil pan is leaking and it's the second washer I've been thru and it feels like the drain bolt is stripped.
There's a coolant leak coming from probably the same hose where it clamps onto the block.
SERIOUS problem - Front right brake caliper upper bolt is missing...the caliper is swung over to the front. I lost control driving to the shop. It shouldn't have happened there's this wide turn I usually take at 40 mph+ in my mom's Taurus (heavier, with no problems on that turn) and I took it at under 40 in my Civic and spun out I tried turning the other way to power slide but my tires are real bad so I ended up facing the guy that was behind me..Backed up, turned around, and finished my way to the shop driving very slow and then found out my caliper bolt is missing.
Also I got both Vtec codes...probably because my oil is drained almost to the 1st hole on the stick but I know for sure the oil pressure sensor is wired up but not the solenoid. Thanks a lot for your help!
And I've got more problems...the oil pan is leaking and it's the second washer I've been thru and it feels like the drain bolt is stripped.
There's a coolant leak coming from probably the same hose where it clamps onto the block.
SERIOUS problem - Front right brake caliper upper bolt is missing...the caliper is swung over to the front. I lost control driving to the shop. It shouldn't have happened there's this wide turn I usually take at 40 mph+ in my mom's Taurus (heavier, with no problems on that turn) and I took it at under 40 in my Civic and spun out I tried turning the other way to power slide but my tires are real bad so I ended up facing the guy that was behind me..Backed up, turned around, and finished my way to the shop driving very slow and then found out my caliper bolt is missing.
Also I got both Vtec codes...probably because my oil is drained almost to the 1st hole on the stick but I know for sure the oil pressure sensor is wired up but not the solenoid. Thanks a lot for your help!
Last edited:
philyphreak2127
Back in the Game
hey question real quick like. does an oil catch can really have a meaningful purpose? or is it just the kind of thing people buy mainly for looks?
why don't you start your own thread?
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Probably because I was talking to him in another thread and I guess he wanted to drop in on mine? Lol, I don't know anything about an oil catch can or what they do.
philyphreak2127
Back in the Game
I didn't wanna start a new thread cause I figured asking someone a quick question in a existing thread would get me an answer a bit quicker, but it doesn't matter I figured the oil catch can was nothin special.
When you have an engine running alot of boost, blowby from compression causes the crankcase to become pressurized. Normally, blowby gasses are vented via a check valve back into the intake manifold (pcv positive crankcase ventilation).
With a non-factory boosted car, you tend to get more blowby than normal. In addition, the presence of blowby gasses in the intake makes the mixture more prone to detonation.
A catchcan is used to catch the blowby gasses/oil rather than it going into the intake.
With a non-factory boosted car, you tend to get more blowby than normal. In addition, the presence of blowby gasses in the intake makes the mixture more prone to detonation.
A catchcan is used to catch the blowby gasses/oil rather than it going into the intake.
philyphreak2127
Back in the Game
thank you for the info.
