HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
hmmmmm...what company would you buy from then? have any suggestions kit wise?
D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?
- Thread starter 93civicracer
- Start date
- Replies 396
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LS_VTEC
you get the BRAKE
if you can afford it, full-race.com. but thats for big power, i dont think you need any of their kits. go with a peakboost kit or even revhard. those kits are great kits for the price. if thats too much for you, just buy a greddy kit. or you can even piece a kit together cheap. if your engine is sohc, try looking into a lovefab manifold. great price, good quality. just piece a kit together and take your time. thats the best way to do it.
philyphreak2127
Back in the Game
that is a slick car. I like it. Good to know I'm not the only one rockin a 4 door.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
UPDATE:::
Got back into the shop since I took time off from holidays and I'm having some real problems I need some help on this one...
So I replaced the fuel pump relay and now I'm getting fuel, but the fuse in the fuse box under the hood (ecu fuse, 15a) keeps getting blown every time I try to start, so for now we got it ghetto rigged with a 20a fuse and some kind of surge protector on it, and it works that way.
So now I'm getting fuel...but now the motor won't rev past like 3,000 rpm (it's a guess, rpms are low, but I have no tach) without sounding like it's hitting the rev limit and the higher you go, the slower and harder it sounds. We've done literally everything my haynes manual and my teacher's service manual suggested. Any suggestions?
Do I absolutely have to use the intake manifold from my d15b7? I kept the one on the d15b vtec because I thought it only was because of emissions that you have to use the old one. We even t-bracketed the vacuum hoses and plugged the open one, still same problem. So tomorrow in the morning I'm heading back up there and putting the old IM back on...any other suggestions to why my motor can't get past like 3k rpm and sounds like rev limit?
PLease help!
Got back into the shop since I took time off from holidays and I'm having some real problems I need some help on this one...
So I replaced the fuel pump relay and now I'm getting fuel, but the fuse in the fuse box under the hood (ecu fuse, 15a) keeps getting blown every time I try to start, so for now we got it ghetto rigged with a 20a fuse and some kind of surge protector on it, and it works that way.
So now I'm getting fuel...but now the motor won't rev past like 3,000 rpm (it's a guess, rpms are low, but I have no tach) without sounding like it's hitting the rev limit and the higher you go, the slower and harder it sounds. We've done literally everything my haynes manual and my teacher's service manual suggested. Any suggestions?
Do I absolutely have to use the intake manifold from my d15b7? I kept the one on the d15b vtec because I thought it only was because of emissions that you have to use the old one. We even t-bracketed the vacuum hoses and plugged the open one, still same problem. So tomorrow in the morning I'm heading back up there and putting the old IM back on...any other suggestions to why my motor can't get past like 3k rpm and sounds like rev limit?
PLease help!
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Bump for help, sorry, but I want to make sure I get help tonight..going back to the shop at 9:00 tomorrow morning.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Anyone? Please can help with problems 2 posts ago I need help tonight!
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Bumpitty bump help 2niiiiiiiite please if anyone can! sorry
Ok I'm going to go through this step by step.
1. you're car is a dx which means the map sensor is located on the firewall. It gets its reading from a vacuum line running out of it to the charcoal cansiter.
2. I am assuming that your jdm engine has the map sensor on the top of the throttle body. In this case, after the new engine is in, take that vacuum line off the old map sensor and run it to the vacuum port on the top of the throttle body inlet. This is how the new map sensor gets its vacuum reading.
3. The map sensor harness and plug is seperate from the rest of the engine harness on cars with firewall map sensors. Unplug the wiring from the old sensor and plug it into the new map sensor on the jdm engine (top of the throttle body).
Basically you don't use the old map sensor, and I don't think theres a way it can be bolted on to your new engine.
1. you're car is a dx which means the map sensor is located on the firewall. It gets its reading from a vacuum line running out of it to the charcoal cansiter.
2. I am assuming that your jdm engine has the map sensor on the top of the throttle body. In this case, after the new engine is in, take that vacuum line off the old map sensor and run it to the vacuum port on the top of the throttle body inlet. This is how the new map sensor gets its vacuum reading.
3. The map sensor harness and plug is seperate from the rest of the engine harness on cars with firewall map sensors. Unplug the wiring from the old sensor and plug it into the new map sensor on the jdm engine (top of the throttle body).
Basically you don't use the old map sensor, and I don't think theres a way it can be bolted on to your new engine.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
1. What/where is the charcoal canister? I'm sorry I'm an absolute noob and don't know this.
2. Yes map is on top of the tb. But, my d15b vtec intake manifold does not have any vacuum port on the tb, maybe I just need to reuse my old tb? Or the whole intake manifold because it's missing another port on the front/right side of the IM too?
3. I know, the map sensor is plugged in right.
4. Thanks so much for the help. Rep.
2. Yes map is on top of the tb. But, my d15b vtec intake manifold does not have any vacuum port on the tb, maybe I just need to reuse my old tb? Or the whole intake manifold because it's missing another port on the front/right side of the IM too?
3. I know, the map sensor is plugged in right.
4. Thanks so much for the help. Rep.
The charcoal canister is a black cylindrical looking thing below the fuel filter and mounted on the firewall. It has a bunch of lines going in and out
So your saying that the tb doesn't have any vacuum ports? Thats strange. Take a closeup pic or something that would help a ton.
So your saying that the tb doesn't have any vacuum ports? Thats strange. Take a closeup pic or something that would help a ton.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
If you're talking about a cylinder below the fuel filter then mine's brown and there's a loose line next to it that was like that before I even bought the car but it drove fine without it I mean it points up and it's not long enough to reach anything. About the thickness of the fuel feed.
And yea the TB doesn't have any vacuum ports I'll take a pic tomorrow morning to show you right before I just throw on my old intake manifold because you've got me semi-convinced now that the MAP sensor's not reading vacuum and that that's the problem.
I'll get you a pic of that mysterious line too.
And yea the TB doesn't have any vacuum ports I'll take a pic tomorrow morning to show you right before I just throw on my old intake manifold because you've got me semi-convinced now that the MAP sensor's not reading vacuum and that that's the problem.
I'll get you a pic of that mysterious line too.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Soooo...alright...since I'm obviously going to need to at least reuse my old throttle body, which doesn't have an MAP sensor on it, does that mean I can just use the old sensor (or move the new sensor since it's newer) at the firewall and not have to move those vacuum lines?
EDIT: Alright waiting for pics thanks so much.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Will do. Get them pics uploaded?
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Yea the map sensor was mounted on it and if there is a vacuum port maybe I'm forgetting but I really don't think it has one on it either way there IS a vacuum port on the old tb that's not on the new one I dunno if there's 2 of them tho.
