D16y8 n/a build

philyphreak2127

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I may eventually have to go that way. I plan to stretch the limits of this motor as much as possible somewhat reliably. Maybe in the mean time I'll find an external coil conversion kit instead. I just got my springs and retainers also from zex this week. Plan to order valves next week but my dog is really sick so I may have to hold off. any suggestions for valves? is it worth to go oversize for an n/a motor?
 

phunky.buddha

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Yes, but it's really all in the design of the bolt head. The ones that slipped (older AEM I think) didn't have enough surface area under the head to grip the gears. Current designs generally don't have that problem.
 

daviidwilson

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You're absolutely correct. The D-series is the 'commuter' engine. Not to mention that D's rule/run the world.


Building a D makes very little sense. People need to realize that. There's no cheap way to make a D put out more power, it's already at/close to its limits.



Oh well, some people never learn.
The rumble of a V8 is a beautiful thing too. I remember when I almost bought a Trans Am GTA? I believe. The one with the digital dash and what have you. Anywho, at the time I had never been in or started up a V8 before. Lets just say that I almost jumped for joy when I heard that engine rumble.
 

philyphreak2127

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of course. v8's are fun but my d-series will be fun as well. corners in an 80 trans am tend to be far more dramatic than they are in a 98 civic that weighs half what the T/A weighs. But don't get me wrong...that car will see it's fair share of the road. But the build on the t/a will be to perfection. that's my baby. and I'm not about build it to be a drag car only.
 

philyphreak2127

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ordered ferea valves today. my head will be taken in as soon as I get the valves here. should I drop the extra cash and go for bronze valve guides? also anyone seen any results of throttle body spacers on our cars in terms of power?
 

philyphreak2127

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well gonna go ahead and get the bronze valve guides, and oem honda seals, also looking into the unorthodox pulley set in stock diameter but have heard that it's a better idea to leave the stock crank pulley on due to it serving the purpose of a harmonic balancer as well? was still considering the kit for the lightweight acc. pulleys.
 

philyphreak2127

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2 weeks since I dropped the head off...one busy shop! But they do good work. Ordered oem 2000 civic ex headlights some brackets were broken on the old ones and I wanted to get legit 00 headlights
 

hondafreak513

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hey do you need a good set of plug wires. I got some Nology Hot Wire's there a good set came off a d15z1 should fit the Y8. let me know i will get some pics if you want.
 

philyphreak2127

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mine are brand new thanks though...lil pic of some progress. new bumper, grill, and headlights installed. just need the fenders, and a hood and it'll be ready to prep for paint. love the fact that I went to school for that...and have the tools needed.
 

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philyphreak2127

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Well Finally got the head back about to go install it. Cost me $496 for the bronze valve guides, valve job, and cam install. I feel like had I known this before everything I would've sent my head to Bisimoto and had their shop go through it. Oh well it looks very clean and I'm itching to drive my car. By the way...on a side note I believe I've mentioned many times a 95 civic hatch that we were building a b20b/b16 hybrid with obx cams, skunk 2 valvetrain, eagle rods and pistons, arp rod bolts, and head studs. We finally got the motor all assembled and dropped in after 12 hours of work yesterday night. Still having some issues we need to solve after christmas. We also got the front drilled and slotted rotors installed, he has a 99 gsr front brake conversion..something I've been considering.
 

philyphreak2127

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By the way for helping him out I snagged his extra b20 throttle body...gonna see if it'll line up. Also he hooked it up with his civic sized drilled and slotted rotors with new pads as well. He is also the same one who gave me a radiator when my other one's head snapped off.

It's looking like the next purchase will be fenders. However if I can find anywhere that'll sell the necessary plugs for a vtec wire or find a junkyard car with one intact I'll run that wire. something I have yet to do. Any suggestions?
 

philyphreak2127

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all this progress dashed yet again. stripped threads in the block where my headstuds thread into. I have heard it's not recommended to helicoil or retap the threads in a block like this nor will I be able to find a proper arp stud without extensive mods. SO the plan now is to start looking into other blocks. May just wind up going back to a y8 block or find a decent y7 block and mod the oil system prior to the swap. I have been also thinking about the d17a2 pistons to bump up compression as well but I believe Calesta spoke before about how the p29 pistons in a y8 block can run a 12.1:1+ comp. ratio. So any help would be appreciated.

Also with that high of compression on pump gas would methanol injection be necessary?
 

philyphreak2127

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will do thanks man. I guess despite my original plan to rock a stock block and internal combo for a bit was changed...so I'm looking into y8 bottom ends. so If anyone has any let me know. Don't really need a 2nd head but wouldn't mind nonetheless.
 

phunky.buddha

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P29/PM7 pistons in a D16Y8 will crank you up to 12.6:1 if I remember correctly. You might want a thicker head gasket to make everything happy. An aggressive camshaft will help too- it will lower your dynamic compression by having more overlap. You'll make more power too. Gotta match the cams to the compression ratio.

And you can run this on pump gas. I ran 12.6:1 on 91 octane, and 13.0:1 on 93 octane without pulling out ridiculous amounts of timing. It's all in the tune. You can always be a bit safer and go with the PM6 or uh... PG6? I think pistons and have a mid 11:1 compression ratio, then gain your power back with more timing.
 

philyphreak2127

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to be honest I almost feel safer running the higher compression and less timing work than the timing with the 11:1 ratio. luckily I have a buddy who can do tuning when it comes to that time. I was actually quite intrigued by the p29/pm7 piston swap you were talking about. I've always had lofty goals for this build so going big now is not going to hurt. I may wind up going all forged internals at the same time. I have a specific car in mind I wanna keep up with. A buddy of mine has a virtually stock...for now...2001 audi tt with a larger intake filter (stock mass air flow despite my best efforts to talk him into replacing it throws cel), and a custom cat back exhaust he fabbed in his garage. I'm thinking running this setup would keep the competition close if not well in hand. We've been planning for years to go and run in the scca races here down in Pueblo.
 
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