D16Z6-T well under way

[htrcivic96sir]

need some info from people that have dug their feet into a project similar to this. its been awhile since my last post so I figure Ill update you all on project "D16z6T". Its a 92 EG hatch CX I bought for $700 bucks in NOV. of 04) . I soon after aquired a running D16Z6 for $350 ( props to Woodfin Honda Southside, VA). Since then the head has seen a complete rebuild+ 3angle valve job. Block is in the shop as we speak being Honed, chamfered, cleaned and brought back to me to install Clevite Main/rod bearings on Eagle H beam rods and YCP 8.5-1 turbo pistons. Now here is where the help is needed. Ive been searching for a cylinder brace to use and have found 4 or so to choose but have been turned away by others due to the negitives of a cylinder brace ( unwanted cylinder wear,cooling starvation to the head, etc) Ive been told to look to AEBS or others for a professional sleeving, but I {like others} just cant afford this and see it as extreme overkill for a motor thats running on shallow pockets. but on the other hand Im afraid of "cylinder walking" at higher boost levels and later on in its boosted life. The main goal of this project is super sleeper/daily driver. What should I do? how much boost/power could I muster out of it with out sleeving? Next question is... turbo kit...which would be the best for my daily driver? im looking for one with a turbo I can eaisly crank over the kits 5 to8 psi of boost, but is also complete with supplemental fuel managment ( pump,injectors,etc.) to cut down on later costs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[posol]

its a d-series.... its not worth the cash to sleeve it. cuz you can blow up 4 or 5 times before it becomes cost-effective to do so. lol you can score a z6 block for like 100-150 bucks bare now-a-days. with the upgraded internals, you'll be good for 300 whp with a solid tune before you run into through. screw the block guard, and don't waste your money with sleeving, so long as you can afford the down time (ie, a spare car) if you do blow through the cyl wall. if might be a good idea to have a spare in the garage ready to go or something...

8.5:1 is very low compression... i wouldn't have gone that low. because of this, you're going to need more boost to make the same power as a higher-compression motor would.

kits are in general a waste of money. you can peice together a kit for probably 1/2 the price and get better parts, and not have to worry about e-baying the FMU crap that comes with 'em.

score a manifold
piping
ic
wg
bov
turbo for about 1500-2000 tops for top quality shit... cheaper if you go used or mid-range parts

add your oil lines and pan fittings
walboro pump, dsm 450's, resistor box
crome pro for 150
and you're probably going to have to break 11 psi to make power with that compression, so add in a 3-bar map sensor for 60 bucks.

with the left over cash, you can get your 3" dp , cat and cat back together... look into kteller's systems kteller.com nice cheap piping kits, weld together yourself for a steal of a price

and whatever you do, don't go to sgt racing for tuning... nothing personal, but i don't think he's a good tuner. i'll probably delete this part of the thread after you read it. i don't want to talk shit... just giving you a heads up.

 

[Cashizslick]

Good info B.

Also, http://www.homemadeturbo.com/ has some great info on turbo'ing D series honda motors for real cheep.

 

[hotrex]

i ran 18 psi on my built d series for 15k miles no prob. 293 whp. stock sleeves.

d series seem to be less prob to stress induced cracking than b series.

dont even bother, leave the sleeves alone.

 

[Hondatuner88]

hotrex....your saying you ran 18 psi on an open deck d series block?? No junky sleeve saver??

 

[phunky.buddha]

I'll believe it. A good number of people have actually made over 250whp, some upwards of 300whp on the stock D series sleeve. Just tune everything really well.

 

[htrcivic96sir]

for pissed off: off subject, thanx for keepin this site puttin' on for idiots like me... on subject... i went for stock bore and stroke because of me still being new to boost.( so i could revert to stock if I had to have the car running again) you think I should clean the stock z6 pistons and sell the 8.5s? or go ahead with them anyway? another thing is piecing my own kit is no prob. ,its when it comes to fuel managment and keeping the stock 'pooter from going into limp-dick mode, Its all greek to me as far as that goes. For hotrex: Id love to make that kind of power but 230 + is enough for me. The build up is to have a kinda' worry free daily driver that will spank the ubserdly large amount of fags in GT mustangs which has seemed to plague the Richmond VA area for quite some time.( <<pent up hostility) Any more feedback is greatly appreciated.
PS: Any way I can aquire "hondaswap" stickers.... because everyone knows...stickers=horsepower

 

[CoreyR]

Quoted post[/post]]
for pissed off: off subject, thanx for keepin this site puttin' on for idiots like me... on subject... i went for stock bore and stroke because of me still being new to boost.( so i could revert to stock if I had to have the car running again) you think I should clean the stock z6 pistons and sell the 8.5s? or go ahead with them anyway? another thing is piecing my own kit is no prob. ,its when it comes to fuel managment and keeping the stock 'pooter from going into limp-dick mode, Its all greek to me as far as that goes. For hotrex: Id love to make that kind of power but 230 + is enough for me. The build up is to have a kinda' worry free daily driver that will spank the ubserdly large amount of fags in GT mustangs which has seemed to plague the Richmond VA area for quite some time.( <<pent up hostility) Any more feedback is greatly appreciated.
PS: Any way I can aquire "hondaswap" stickers.... because everyone knows...stickers=horsepower

if the pistons are forged keep them, if not they arent going to be any better than the stock pistons and you'll make more power with the stockers but defintatley upgrade the rods cause d-series are toothpicks. fuel management is easy, if you want plug and play some RC 440's for $275 and a walbro 255 drop in pump for $99 will support your power goals. if you dont mind wiring a little bit go with some DSM 450's for like $50 off ebay and a walbro 255 and get a resistor box out of a OBD0 civic/integra and wire it into your injector harness to run the DSM's. get your computer socketed and run uberdata, its free and easy to tune if you read the how to (requires a wideband O2 though).

 

[htrcivic96sir]

( hope the image shows up) these are the pistons . They are cast alumminum but have dual forced oilers and long skirts, I guess for better lubrication. only paid $177 for them w/ new rings. and they are light as hell. Should I scrap these and stick with the stockers or go ahead and use them? As far as the fuel issue: 440cc injectors, walbro 255 pump, pressure reg., fuel rail, filter, and at least a 3bar O2 sensor sounds like my intended setup. Does the ECU HAVE to be altered to run that sensor? I read in " EFI 101" {some of the members actually read first} about the uberdata and hondata socketing that allows you to plug in a chip that helps the computer read boost. Is this what i have to do or can I avoid the cost?

 

[phunky.buddha]

You can't post a picture like that... you'll be the only one who can see it. You're linking to a photo on your local hard drive.

 

[CoreyR]

Quoted post[/post]]

( hope the image shows up) these are the pistons . They are cast alumminum but have dual forced oilers and long skirts, I guess for better lubrication. only paid $177 for them w/ new rings. and they are light as hell. Should I scrap these and stick with the stockers or go ahead and use them? As far as the fuel issue: 440cc injectors, walbro 255 pump, pressure reg., fuel rail, filter, and at least a 3bar O2 sensor sounds like my intended setup. Does the ECU HAVE to be altered to run that sensor? I read in " EFI 101" {some of the members actually read first} about the uberdata and hondata socketing that allows you to plug in a chip that helps the computer read boost. Is this what i have to do or can I avoid the cost?

no you cant run any map sensor besides stock (1.75 bar) on your stock ECU. it uses a diff. voltage range and the ECU doesnt know what its reading. if your going to do a turbo dont waste your time with anything but REAL fuel managment. no FMU crap or VAFC shit. have the ECU socketed for $50 and have someone tune it with uberdata/hondata. an uberdata turbo basemap will be more safe than a junk FMU or VAFC. if you want i can burn you a turbo base map but please dont do it any other way.

about the pistons, i cant see the picture but if you say they are cast alu. they are the same as stock but with lower compression. if you can make your money back on them id say get rid of them but if you cant just use them. oh and dont waste your money on a fuel pressure regulator. on stock fuel pressure (42psi) 440's can do ~275WHP.