Need help on buildin a b20b/vtec

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integra504

Junior Member
Hi, I have a 1995 Integra LS 5spd. I know i can do the ls/vtec but i want to do the b20/vtec for power and also i like the idea. I need help on all the info on what to do in order to complete the swap. I found a block (b20b) and i want to know what head is the best to get. I was thinkin of gettin the head from an integra gsr. I also heard that the b20b is better for turbo, which i want to do, than the b20z. Why is this? If anyone can help me with all the info for the swap, and all the "ways to go" in this swap, I would be gratefull. Thanks
 
The GSR head will give you more compression, the B16 head will be cheaper/easier to find. Really they both perform very similarly. Go with whichever head you have the easiest time finding. Are you looking to boost this setup?
 
I would do the ls frank. the b20 is going to limit you to about 4 degrees of adjustment with your cam gears until the valves nail the pistons. you can get the ls block for about a 1/3 of the price as well
 
Yes, I want to put a turbo on the engine. I am going to have the head sent for portin and polishin and i was gion to have them mill the head down so the valves wouldn't hit the block. I was thinkin about goin with a t4 of t3/t4. I want my car to be a daily driver, but i want to really kick some tail. I can use the transmission on my ls on the b20/vtec?
 
MIlling the head will jack up your compression ratio which is not turbo friendly. You don't want a daily driver that needs 100 octane gas. A friend at different tuner shop just went through this with his head on his ls/vtec after the head work was subcontracted to Gude-they ruined it. It ended up having to run on 112 or higher to keep detonation away. Just a thought. A tuner at the same shop has N/A b20/b16a hybrid that runs with it though. I think you can use the tranny but don't quote be on that.
 
Will I have to buy new engine mounts for the swap? What about the ecu, what do i need for that to work the vtec etc.?
 
Yes you need engine mounts, and ECU. You should read the FAQ :readfaq: on the swap, it is very informative and will answer any questions YOu have at this point. Also check out the "killer B" article at sportcompactcarweb.com, its all about b series engines and swaps and even goes into 'frank' engines. Despite all this I've told you, I HIGHLY suggest you go with ls/vtec. You already have the engine in your car, and besides if you bore it to 84mm it's the same damn block as b20!!! you'll save lots of money and time if you stick with LS and you can have the same exact results.
 
Milling = reducing valve to piston clearance, not increasing. Don't do it.

LS tranny WILL work on the B20.

B20B is better for boost than the B20Z because the compression ratio is lower- but the JDM B20B has the same 9.6:1 compression as the USDM B20Z. No difference. I would still rather boost the 9.6:1 of the B20Z than the 8.8:1 of the USDM B20B. Swap out your pistons and it won't matter anyway- you can pick the compression ratio that you want.

Mounts- Any mount setup that works for dropping in a B series engine to your car will work for the B20.

Boring your current LS to 84mm is NOT recommended unless you resleeve at the same time. Boring out the stock sleeve will leave you with thinner cylinder walls... don't do it unless you replace the sleeve.

Also, :readfaq:
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Jan 2 2003, 12:09 AM
Milling = reducing valve to piston clearance, not increasing. Don't do it.

LS tranny WILL work on the B20.

B20B is better for boost than the B20Z because the compression ratio is lower- but the JDM B20B has the same 9.6:1 compression as the USDM B20Z. No difference. I would still rather boost the 9.6:1 of the B20Z than the 8.8:1 of the USDM B20B. Swap out your pistons and it won't matter anyway- you can pick the compression ratio that you want.

Mounts- Any mount setup that works for dropping in a B series engine to your car will work for the B20.

Boring your current LS to 84mm is NOT recommended unless you resleeve at the same time. Boring out the stock sleeve will leave you with thinner cylinder walls... don't do it unless you replace the sleeve.

Also, :readfaq:

calesta you done broke it down

:worthy: :worthy: :worthy:
 
Thats why you bore and resleeve at the same time. He already has the engine, all he needs now is the Head and required wiring. He'll need a bore and resleeve too, or he can just do L/S vtec with a little less displacement yet save alot of money in the meantime and still have decent power. With a litttle more dough you could go with LS turbo which is quite viable.
 
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