need opinions on d15b2->d15z6 build

[ssl2k]

Okay since I am going to be the owner of the $50 civic soon I'm already planning the build here it is:

1988-89 Civic DX 4 door (blue in color) DPFI
d15b2

to start with, the car has 205k miles on it. The dist does not work.

motor build

d15 block
*Might possibly post the block
virata pistons
d16a6 rods
z6 head (vtec baby)
possibly y8 head gasket to raise the compression
d16a6 intake manifold port matched if needed

turbo setup
custom log manifold
rhb5 turbo
intercooled
dsm 390ccs (i dobut i'd need 450cc's)
2.5" exhuast (should be more than enough)
dsm bov

now for the questions:

now, should I set it up as a obd1 car and run uberdata or should I set it up as a obd0 car and run turboedit and have a rpm switch for vtec?

Will the a6 rods work ? Will they cause any issues and are there any other options as far as rods (e.g. ls rods or something) that'd give me more strenght than the a6 rods and still fit into the d15 block?

I'll be running 8-10psi on pump gas.


all suggestions/opinions are welcome

nathan

 

[posol]

why spend money building up a d-series block? bosot it. when it blows up, get another d15/d16 short block for $100.

 

[ssl2k]

Well the only thing i'd be spending money on would be the pistons...

that's mostly becuase the pistons that are in there im sure are shot 205k miles...well not the pistons, but atleast the rings will be gone.

I'm sure they will be taost after the first few runs.

I want something that'll atleast last for a weekend


But yeah the d15 block will go after a while.

nathan

 

[phunky.buddha]

D16 rods won't fit in a D15. The D15 is shorter than the D16, and using D16 rods will cause your pistons to say hello one spectacular time to the head. The D16 rods are longer. If you want to use stronger rods in the D15, you're pretty much stuck with aftermarket pieces.

You can use B18 LS rods in a D16 with some minor machine work (rebushing the piston end to fit smaller wrist pins), or you can just use stock D16 rods and be safe up to 200-220whp with good tuning. Don't detonate and you'll be fine.

For power, OBD1 > non-OBD. You have more processing power and more points to tune your fuel curve at. If you can spend the cash to convert to OBD1, do it. If you can't convert, TurboEdit or GhettoDyne will suit you fine. Just be careful when you're tuning.

If you're swapping a VTEC head onto a non-VTEC block, don't bother with the thinner head gasket to raise compression. You'll be over 10.0:1 no matter what setup you use with a non-VTEC block and pistons, so you really don't want to go much higher... especially on the stock cast pistons and pump gas, and especially if you're tuning on a non-OBD setup.

If you're willing to go through all this trouble, I would recommend you just pick up a D16A6 block for $100 and boost that. You'll solve a ton of your engine build problems with just a stock D16A6 or a stock D16Z6. The Z6 is capable of 200whp under boost with internal modification, the A6 a little less because it doesn't have the intake flow that the VTEC engine has. They just require proper tuning. If you're boosting on a half-dead D15 block, you'll have to go inside and replace a bunch of stuff, and you'll have to go to expensive aftermarket rods to replace the stock toothpicks.

Good luck.

 

[ssl2k]

alright

i guess i'll just pitch that fucker outside.

i might beable to get a d16z6 block so i might hit that, if not i'll find a old a6 block

nathan

 

[phunky.buddha]

You'll really be saving a ton of headable running a straight D16 block.