project: pissedoffsol

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Originally posted by asmallsol@Jun 14 2004, 09:28 AM
If bill doesn't find anything, consider taking it up to the honda dealership and let there head electrical tech take a look at it.
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That would be Bill, lol. I dunno his title, but he is an auto tech. for Honda.
 
Originally posted by Havok+Jun 14 2004, 10:31 AM-->
Havok @ Jun 14 2004 said:
asmallsol
Click to expand...
Havok @ Jun 14 2004 said:
@Jun 14 2004, 09:28 AM
If bill doesn't find anything, consider taking it up to the honda dealership and let there head electrical tech take a look at it.
Click to expand...

That would be Bill, lol. I dunno his title, but he is an auto tech. for Honda.
Click to expand...

sometimes there is guys there that Only do electrical. If bill is, well, that makes it easier.
 
good luck taking it to a dealer. Most of the time, unless you have a inside connection, they wouldn't wanna even touch a modified car such as this. (liability issue).
 
yeah, i don't think bills shop would touch it.

but hes firends with their "problem car" guy... and he lives in my town as well... so maybe if bill doesn't find anything, i can shoot him a couple a bucks to come over and have a look.

and if that doesn't work... I dunno... i don't know what else to do at this point... save from going to a full speed pro full standalone and re-wriing my entire car by hand.... something i don't think im ready to tackle.
 
In case no one else thought of this SIMPLE way... take your multimeter B and turn it onto the resistance setting (measuring ohms). Connect the black end of the multimeter to the frame, and the red wire to power going INTO the ecu/pump/etc. You can trace the short this way. Your short will show almost NO resistance (less than 10 ohms I would assume) while everything else will show a much higher resistance.


This way you don't have to disconnect wires and it should only take a half hour or so to find the problem wire.


NOTE: You can also find WHERE ON THE WIRE it is shorting. Once you find the wire that is shorting, go though and plug in the red wire from the multimeter on different places in the shorting wire. When you are past the short you will suddenly get a much higher resistance showing up.


The multimeter is your friend. Good luck.
 
Originally posted by Airjockie@Jun 13 2004, 09:17 PM
The only thing a bigger fuse is going to do is to extend the length of time that it blow's....it is there to protect the components in the curcuit...

But I have had a problem with the jeep, and blowing fuses all the time.....so I got smart...and hard wired the fuse....and sat back and watched everything for smoke......and it worked...the shorted out rear wiper motor was fried, and the smoke led me right to it....but also the surrounding wires around that wire melted from the heat from the electricity overload...so I had to repair some wires on the tailgate....and if I didn't do that trick...the Jeep would have been junk from second day I bought it....but it's fixed and still on the road.....I do not suggest this trick if you have hold any value for the car.....hehe :ph34r:
Click to expand...

Haha that is what I told Brian to do the other day, just make sure you have a couple of buddies around to keep any eye on things and a fire extinguisher or two just in case. :)
 
I'm too lazy to go thru the intire post....but...

What do you have for a Fuel injector Resistor PacK?
 
you can't really "rule out" anything with a short. For all you know, everything is wired fine but 2 wires are too close and they are arcing. 15A is alot of current. My guess would be that since the fuse isn't blowing immediately, it isn't something that is shorted to ground (like a stripped wire to the chassis). If it was, it would try to flow infinite current right away. So probably 2 wires that are at different potentials are touching. The only way to find it is to go over the wiring by hand with a multimeter. Or the "smoke test" which is pretty fuckin stupid. lol.
 
Also, I don't think that "walboro sucks". I have head of shitloads upon shitloads of people who use the walboro pumps with no problem. It obviously just requires higher capacity wiring, which is probably clearly outlined in the installation instructions.
 
both of you need to re-read my post.

I put the stock, OEM pump in, and it still did it.

My iunjectors are saturated, and thus, no resistor pak is required.
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Jun 14 2004, 05:48 PM
both of you need to re-read my post.

I put the stock, OEM pump in, and it still did it.

My iunjectors are saturated, and thus, no resistor pak is required.
Click to expand...

yeah, I was responding with the walboro thing on a different issue. should have quoted.
 
no. but i can't pin point it to that just yet. i got a couple more ideas last night... and it is leading to the o2 sensor...

looking back...

when the car first ran, i had an o2 code.
turns out my harness was all cracked up and wasn't getting a good connection. no fuse issues to this point, and it made several trips around the block like this with no quams.

so we re-wired it.
then insaleld the fuel pump.

and since, i've had this problem.

fuel pump is ruled out.

i got my money on an o2 wire
 
which is what i said like last week :)
 
im too lazy to search, but im pretty sure you have larger than 550 cc injectors, which im pretty sure is the limit for saturated injectors. if you have larger t han that, they will be peak and hold.
 
Originally posted by liquid00meth@Jun 14 2004, 06:35 PM
you can't really "rule out" anything with a short. For all you know, everything is wired fine but 2 wires are too close and they are arcing. 15A is alot of current. My guess would be that since the fuse isn't blowing immediately, it isn't something that is shorted to ground (like a stripped wire to the chassis). If it was, it would try to flow infinite current right away. So probably 2 wires that are at different potentials are touching. The only way to find it is to go over the wiring by hand with a multimeter. Or the "smoke test" which is pretty fuckin stupid. lol.
Click to expand...

Current doesn't matter when you are talking about arcing. Voltage is the only thing that matters when you need to know if something is arcing or not.

A Vacuum furnace doesn't arc its heater because it is 2000 amps, and only 3 volts.

12 volts isn't enough to arc more than 1mm or so.
You need something like 100,000 Volts to arc 1 meter thru air.


And in case no one read my last post...USE A MULTIMETER TO CHECK THE OHM LOAD BETWEEN THE WIRES THAT COME OFF THE FUSE AND THE GROUND. ONE WILL BE 0 OR CLOSE TO IT, AND THAT IS YOUR SHORT.

Again, look at the wires coming off the fuse. It will split the wire from the fuse into a wire going to :
1) Your ECU
2) Your Fuel Pump
3) Your O2 Sensor
4) Your Injectors
...etc....
 
Originally posted by handlebarsfsr@Jun 16 2004, 08:38 PM
im too lazy to search, but im pretty sure you have larger than 550 cc injectors, which im pretty sure is the limit for saturated injectors. if you have larger t han that, they will be peak and hold.
Click to expand...

You woulda been right about 3 months ago, but RC now makes 650cc and 750cc Saturated injectors. I got a pair too waiting to go in. :p
 
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