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SpyOneUSN

Senior Member
ok fuck it.... i was gonna swap, but with that kinda money i can make my D16 run low 13's all day that i coulda swapped and run mid 14's? so what kinda shit would be best for it... skunk 2 valve train? does FMax make a turbo for it? i heard the greddy is small and you cant even feel the boost. what about pistons? block sleeves? stroker kit? am i wasting my fucking time and i should just buy a suburu? :huh:
 
trust me, i've seen DX D15B runnin 13's and 12'z. soup up that D16.
 
Ok, time for some advice for someone who knows what the hell they are talking about. A D15/D16 is capable of 12-13's, but you will spend just as much money on that as you would with a swap. Any engine can run 12's--I could do it with a Geo Metro. For all the money you will spend building the Z6, you could have a B16B, B18C, B18CR, etc.
 
True Afipunk, you can make z6 and d15 run 12 and 13. but you can still do a swap and go quicker, faster, and not so much money.
 
Ok, how about some advice from someone with a Turbo D16 built (D16y8block, 9:1, D16Z6head for lower compression). So...for the cost of building the D you could have a B...even an H. This is true. I did the math before hand, and i watched my friend build his B18C for turbo(im talking FULLY built...nothing was left OEM). It was far more expensive to build than my little D...still a bad ass engine though. Now, if you buy a swap, clutch, resurfacefly wheel, get good mounts(worth doing) all the bolt ons, the little parts you'll need , and pay a shop to install it...that is a chuck of change. If you do it yourself, you could save a good amount of money and make it very worth the time.
So, now you have a D series and its already in the car and you want to go turbo!? good call. Oddly enough the D series potentially makes more torque than most of the B series family(yay for stroke!), the sleeved in a D series block are safe up to 18-20psi for race days(yes, ive tested it so dont go off on how relseving is better, i know it is :) ). To do this fast engine, you will need to Build your engine. Head work is not end all nessacary(still good to do though!!)...you could hit 12's without it...boosting around 11-12psi. Ive seen it done in front of me. IMO its not worth getting a "kit" for going turbo. If you mean businesss you'll go out, learn your shit, and peice it together right. You will also get more power from this method and probably spend the same is not less...i spent less. If you build your D you will probably spend a swaps cost, maybe even before you buy the turbo...maybe not. Remember there is around 1500-2500+ in little parts you'll need to get so you dont have any problems(just FYI). Now, yes, im sure i spent somewhat more on my engine than i would have a swap, but i dont do only some of whats needed, i do all and more. Is it worth it, maybe. AM i saying "swaps suck"? Hell no! I'd still like to have a C5 engine eventually...run all motor, hehe.

Rob :D
 
I think DISTORTED is making a very valid point and it is very true but you have to also look at both sides of the spectrum. How drivable is a 12-second built, turbed out D-series? I've never had a built D-series so I don't know that's why I question it. A B-series & H-series motors have a lot more potential than a D-series and it has more aftermarket backing than a D-series.
Don't get me wrong, I've seen a fully built D16Z6(n/a) powered CRX whoop on a ITR(n/a) but you will end up spending more money on the D-series in my opinion.

Lets add it up:
port and polish = 900-1000
pistons and rods = 500
valevetrain = 500
cams and gears = 500
crank = 350
fuel system needed to support that much power = 500
clutch and flywheel = 600
suspension mods = 450
tires = 300
i/h/e = 600
turbo kit = 2000-3000

drum roll please........total so far = +/- $5200 w/o turbo and that doesn't even include labor

*DISCLAIMER*- all pricing was quick estimates. I did no research on this, just grabed numbers off the top of my head.
 
thanks distorted. my question is, what kind of turbo set up do you have? did you sleeve the block? did you change the crank? how built is that focker and how much did you spend total? what kind of slips are you pullin? im gettin a 14k enlistment bonus from the navy and its goin toward the whip, yes i know with that much money why dont i just buy an ITR swap or something. well i still might, but i think the D16 has all the potential i need. itd be cool to have a 10 sec car for a daily driver but i dont think i could afford the tires/tickets.
 
Originally posted by rsaeini@Mar 18 2003, 09:53 PM

Lets add it up:
port and polish = 900-1000
pistons and rods = 500
valevetrain = 500
cams and gears = 500
crank = 350
fuel system needed to support that much power = 500
clutch and flywheel = 600
suspension mods = 450
tires = 300
i/h/e = 600
turbo kit = 2000-3000

drum roll please........total so far = +/- $5200 w/o turbo and that doesn't even include labor

*DISCLAIMER*- all pricing was quick estimates. I did no research on this, just grabed numbers off the top of my head.

Some are way low,but some are way high so we'll say it evens out.You can build your D,boost it and gain some really nice numbers on a dyno and a track.The reality is though,that you will hit a plain as far as the relation having to spend more money to gain more power on the D than with a B.The swap's start pricey but you start with more.So by the time you have the same power as a swap it almost evens out.True a turbo on a D is faster than a swap,but a turbo on a swap is faster still,see what I am saying.So it comes down to your budget,your skill (or shops skill),and how much you feel is enough.
 
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