greymatter
New Member
right swaps
i had a 00 prelude SH and some guy rear ended me at like 50 so i swappd the H22a4SH into a 92 civic hatch. it is very fast, prob 0 to 60 in a little over 4 seconds stock, though depending on the right ECU u decide to use, i got lucky and didnt have to buy the engine which my engine is a pretty hefty price. u can still find the old H22a from 93-97 preludes that have 190hp or the S type which are the red tops that still has balls for not that much around 1500, but the prices of the H series have gone done in the market since K20s have came out. do not swap a B16,B20 or any D series, they are pieces of shit and youll waste ur money for the power u get. defenitely either go with the H22 or the B18C1 from GSRs which has like 180hp, but the H22 is way more of a better engine, yet it is the hardest swap, and the B18C1 is the next step below. to swap the H22 youll need about 1500-2000 for parts and bullshit youll run into, cause u will, it always happens, and whatever u buy the engine for, 1000-3000. youll need to get custom axles, shiftlifters(most times they some with the engine),after markert suspension, motor mounts, new wire harness(ECU), take out the power steering and AC, and more than likely after market 4-2-1, and an ECU. the only major problem with the H22a4 is that they have an EGR valve( its recycles emisions through your intake and exhaust) it is not needed and if you leave it on it cloggs up ur ports in ur intake and thats a bitch if u dont get it taken care of immediately. the ECUs that are for H22s are the P13 and P28OBD1, do not go with them cause the still register the EGR valve and ur engine will run in limp or safety mode, A.K.A no balls. u can either weld it closed(not advised) or get a JDM P72 OBD1 that come out of GSRs straight from japan. it doesnt look for the EGR valve and adds hp also lengthens your vtec and redlines at 8000, fuel cut off is around 8200 stock. im tellin u man i just got done with the process, liten to me, if u want to swap go with the H22 or B18C1, its gonna cost some money but after ur done its worth it. ive seen so many other swaps that aint shit compared to those two engines, like i said its some hard work by urself and ur gonna run into problems but trust me bro, u will smoke mustangs sleeping, i have roasted them by like 4 or 5 car lengths not evn gettin out of 2nd gear, even GTs but u got to know ur car well. youll be impressed, good luck......
i had a 00 prelude SH and some guy rear ended me at like 50 so i swappd the H22a4SH into a 92 civic hatch. it is very fast, prob 0 to 60 in a little over 4 seconds stock, though depending on the right ECU u decide to use, i got lucky and didnt have to buy the engine which my engine is a pretty hefty price. u can still find the old H22a from 93-97 preludes that have 190hp or the S type which are the red tops that still has balls for not that much around 1500, but the prices of the H series have gone done in the market since K20s have came out. do not swap a B16,B20 or any D series, they are pieces of shit and youll waste ur money for the power u get. defenitely either go with the H22 or the B18C1 from GSRs which has like 180hp, but the H22 is way more of a better engine, yet it is the hardest swap, and the B18C1 is the next step below. to swap the H22 youll need about 1500-2000 for parts and bullshit youll run into, cause u will, it always happens, and whatever u buy the engine for, 1000-3000. youll need to get custom axles, shiftlifters(most times they some with the engine),after markert suspension, motor mounts, new wire harness(ECU), take out the power steering and AC, and more than likely after market 4-2-1, and an ECU. the only major problem with the H22a4 is that they have an EGR valve( its recycles emisions through your intake and exhaust) it is not needed and if you leave it on it cloggs up ur ports in ur intake and thats a bitch if u dont get it taken care of immediately. the ECUs that are for H22s are the P13 and P28OBD1, do not go with them cause the still register the EGR valve and ur engine will run in limp or safety mode, A.K.A no balls. u can either weld it closed(not advised) or get a JDM P72 OBD1 that come out of GSRs straight from japan. it doesnt look for the EGR valve and adds hp also lengthens your vtec and redlines at 8000, fuel cut off is around 8200 stock. im tellin u man i just got done with the process, liten to me, if u want to swap go with the H22 or B18C1, its gonna cost some money but after ur done its worth it. ive seen so many other swaps that aint shit compared to those two engines, like i said its some hard work by urself and ur gonna run into problems but trust me bro, u will smoke mustangs sleeping, i have roasted them by like 4 or 5 car lengths not evn gettin out of 2nd gear, even GTs but u got to know ur car well. youll be impressed, good luck......