WHAT THE CRAP>.... ECU under carpet

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

It will run it but poorly...its DOHC and non-VTEC ECU.

You tried to smog? If so.....what were your failing numbers and category?
 
There can be a few reasons for high nox. Some say it can be a lean car (opposite of rich) but it can be a variety of senors too. But....I would think that your ECU could be a main culprit. O2 hooked up? ECU reading it? Sadly, we know almost nothing about your chip and what it is tellign the ECU to do. It could be cutting out the need for O2 and maybe a few other sensors.
 
There can be a few reasons for high nox. Some say it can be a lean car (opposite of rich) but it can be a variety of senors too. But....I would think that your ECU could be a main culprit. O2 hooked up? ECU reading it? Sadly, we know almost nothing about your chip and what it is tellign the ECU to do. It could be cutting out the need for O2 and maybe a few other sensors.

I am going to have speed innovations send me a chip with a factory d15b mapping on it. Unless there is some way of verifying it is a p28, the risk of cutting the j1 kinda scares me.

As for the o2 sensors, they aren't hooked up (at least per the extra wiring). The o2 sensor just in front of the cat is loosely wired together. Ideally tonight I have the time to fix that portion of it.

I looked at the pin out section. It didn't seem to make sense to me. I don't know what wires should be hooked to what as it is an obd1 ecu on an obd0 car.
 
^^ Nice that would help him a lot. I been trying to help and feel like a monkey effing a football!
Rep'd :thumbsup:
 
Got your wire locations.

Wire color ---------->Function

Blue------------------> O2 sensor heater control (black O2 wire)
White-----------------> O2 sensor signal (white O2 wire)
Purple----------------> VTEC solenoid signal
Gray -----------------> VTEC pressure switch signal
Green*---------------> *Intake air bypass signal (not used in your application)
Orange---------------> Knock sensor
Red x2---------------> Power (IAB, O2 black wire) *(you will only need to use one red one as you dont have IABs)
Black x2-------------> Ground (SCS, VTEC pressure switch, green O2 wire)
Yellow---------------> Service check signal.

A toggle switch needs to be put between the one of the balck wires and the yellow to pull ECU trouble codes. If you get a check engine light, turn the switch on and the CEL in the dash will flash morse code just like an OBD0 ECU, just instead of the LED in the case flashing your dash CEL will.

Hope this helps. :thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
^^ Nice that would help him a lot. I been trying to help and feel like a monkey effing a football!
Rep'd :thumbsup:

Not at all. You have been majorly helpful.

Got your wire locations.

Wire color ---------->Function

Blue------------------> O2 sensor heater control (black O2 wire)
White-----------------> O2 sensor signal (white O2 wire)
Purple----------------> VTEC solenoid signal
Gray -----------------> VTEC pressure switch signal
Green*---------------> *Intake air bypass signal (not used in your application)
Orange---------------> Knock sensor
Red x2---------------> Power (IAB, O2 black wire) *(you will only need to use one red one as you dont have IABs)
Black x2-------------> Ground (SCS, VTEC pressure switch, green O2 wire)
Yellow---------------> Service check signal.

A toggle switch needs to be put between the one of the balck wires and the yellow to pull ECU trouble codes. If you get a check engine light, turn the switch on and the CEL in the dash will flash morse code just like an OBD0 ECU, just instead of the LED in the case flashing your dash CEL will.

Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

bad ass. thanks! I'll go see if I can burn down my car.
 
So hopefully that info helps you wire some stuff up. If you have a local junkyard/recycler, I would look into a new clip for the VTEC and get that all wired in to. I have another link to a pin out for OBD1 cars (helped me for knock sensor and a few other things)

.:FFS TechNet : OBD1 ECU Pin out Schematics :.
 
So hopefully that info helps you wire some stuff up. If you have a local junkyard/recycler, I would look into a new clip for the VTEC and get that all wired in to. I have another link to a pin out for OBD1 cars (helped me for knock sensor and a few other things)

.:FFS TechNet : OBD1 ECU Pin out Schematics :.

any specific cars I should be eyeballing then? There are quite a few 92 and up civics at my local yard.

and that diagram is monster helpful!
 
Most likely need to find a 92-95 Civic EX Sedan or 93-95 Civic EX Coupe. But if you run into a 92-95 Civic Si hatch (which is more rare to find) that VTEC clip works too. Even a 92-95 VX hatch plugs should work. I am not sure but maybe even 96-00 EX coupe/Sedan VTEC plugs would work too......??

All in all D16Z6 motors will be the clip that I would think is the most abundant out of the possibilities
 
Last edited:
Also...if you need to connect wires into the jumper clip from the motor/sensors/etc then you should cut a clip off one of those junkyard cars (a clip that connects to the ECU from harness) Cut it long and just use a super small flat head (like a jewlers tool) to get the pins out and push them into your jumper. Any OBD1 Honda Civic will work for sure and maybe many others but I would stick to OBD1 to be safe (I say safe b/c I did it already lol)
 
Any updates??

yep, pulled the chip and it ran like total garbage. Then put it back in and cut the j1. Jumped the fan so that its always powered. Now, went to rerun the emissions test. Actually ran the highest nOx numbers to date.....

All I can say is, #U%_#@U% er...

It runs about the same, no noticed differences in anything. Am going to run its first tank set up as is, so we'll see if mileage is affected.

I have no idea where to go from here. I can't think of what the hell this thing could need at this point. Any further suggestions?

could the non connected vtec have anything to do with it?
 
cant see VTEC messing with emissions. I still think you should just get another ECU
 
cant see VTEC messing with emissions. I still think you should just get another ECU

I just worry that getting another ecu might have me in the same situation of the basemap not being right. And, do you think it is worth it just gettting a d15b basemap chip for this ecu. That way I know everything is firing exactly as it was intended.
 
I would get either a virgin ECU for your set up or a chipped OBD1 with a stock basemap for your set up. Along with the VTEC hooked up correctly......you must have no CEL or you will not pass visual on the smog check for sure. They also check to see if your CEL bulb works properly.
 
Serial won't do any good. What's the exact engine code on the block?

Speed Innovations Engine Management System may insinuate the ECU has been chipped. If it's the original ECU for the engine, the chip can be disabled by cutting a jumper. If not, a simple ECU swap would work.

We removed the chip and that didn't work at all. It idled at about 2k and overheated so quickly the damn thing nearly burst the top radiator hose.

Kevin, I did take your advice and cut the jumper. This is when it blew the highest on nOx.

I bypassed the fan, so that it is always on. This doesn't seem to have changed anything.
 
I would get either a virgin ECU for your set up or a chipped OBD1 with a stock basemap for your set up. Along with the VTEC hooked up correctly......you must have no CEL or you will not pass visual on the smog check for sure. They also check to see if your CEL bulb works properly.

Yah, I am wondering who to go to for a stock base mapped chip. Also, I suppose I'll have to do some junkyarding and pull a working vtec setup from another car.

I didn't know they checked for proper operation of the CEL. I pulled the lights... guess that was a mistake.

this sucks...
 
Yeah they turn key to "on" position and check for the light to come on and shut off lol.

What state are you in? I know a guy that could help you out (in terms of a ECU chipped for your basemap) in Nor-Cal.
 
Back
Top