unless you have a super built n/a b18b or turbo. s/c or nos you dont have torqueMy b18b says otherwise
+1 for turboing the D-Series though.
I really wish I would have done that in the first place.
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unless you have a super built n/a b18b or turbo. s/c or nos you dont have torqueMy b18b says otherwise
+1 for turboing the D-Series though.
I really wish I would have done that in the first place.
unless you have a super built n/a b18b or turbo. s/c or nos you dont have torque
Hahaha. I see that my reputation precedes me.
For $1500-2000 you can easily hit your goal with your stock engine. Make sure it's healthy and if it is you can put a turbo on it, tune it, and have fun. Any B-Series will cost you around $600-1000 just to drop in, in stock form. You can use that to rebuild your Z6. However, if you don't feel comfortable swapping an engine I don't think you'll be anywhere near comfortable rebuilding an engine.
You won't get 8500rpm out of a D16 without serious and seriously expensive head modifications. With their 90mm stroke these engines provide strong low and midrange power. You can make the same power at a lower RPM and your engine will be that much more reliable because of it.
Perfect. A rebuild isn't what I thought it was though, what exactly gets done when you rebuild an engine? And do I remove the engine myself, or is it kind of like a drop the car off and come back deal?AHHVTEC said:ahh hell man if your doing a rebuild your good to go, just get better rods and you can go for 200+
Wow, you are a newbie. (no offense meant.)
There are two main parts to an engine, the cylinder head and the block. The ports are how fresh air enters the cylinder head, into the cylinders, and then back out of the head. A port and polish job opens the ports up to create different air flow characteristics and the polish smooths out the exhaust ports so carbon buildup has a harder time building up.
Building the block means taking the head off of and then replacing the stock cast pistons and connecting rods with forged aftermarket units. Further you can replace the actual cylinder sleeves, the crankshaft, oil pan and pretty much anything else. Rebuilding the block would be installing new piston rings, new connecting rod and main bearings, along with new gaskets and seals...possibly new pistons and over-boring the cylinders to ensure that they're perfectly round. What you're talking about is a major tune-up and is an excellent idea.
I/H/E are intake/header/exhaust and what they do is allow your engine to breathe easier. Imagine trying to run while breathing through a straw. That's how your engine is right now. Put the intake on and it's like you're able to inhale with your mouth but still have to exhale through the straw. The header and exhaust finish the analogy. Furthermore, a well designed header will not only have larger diameter piping but its design will help the scavenging effect that will pull the spent charge (exhaust) out of the engine more quickly and thus pull the fresh intake charge in quicker.
This is a good article to get you familiar with the process: Howstuffworks "Internal Combustion"
That said, I recommend you buy either a GReddy or Edelbrock turbo kit along with a Walbro 255lph fuel pump and call it a day. Let those guys do the thinking for you since you barely have time to breathe, yourself. Those kits are designed to be used on a completely stock engine with a completely stock cooling system. Upgrading wouldn't be a bad idea, but it's not really necessary. Beyond that I do recommend that you find someone who can tune your ECU with Crome instead of using the supplied FMU (fuel management unit) that comes with either kit. The engine will make more and smoother power along with being more reliable for it.
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yep! but he says he dosnt mind spending cash, and there is only so much you can do with a d, and with k series coming up fast b series is getting cheaper by the day!
true, if he wont go b, the turbo the d right fully built head, block, then hes got room to work with when he has more $$ like bigger turbo, and could make 300+
His goal is extremely feasible with the D series, the turbo D will also have nice all around power, with a correctly sized turbo, minimal lag as well. With his reasonable HP goal he also will have decent driveability.
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trannys do help gear wise, but theres still no torque
Sorry lightweightchamp, you have ideas/opinion and input.......they're just poor and thoughtless.
Your mind is in Bling city, you're picking a motor for the Type Rness. The motor in itself isn't anything too spectacular. A GSR or poor man's C5 are much better choices if he was going the swap route.
His goal is extremely feasible with the D series, the turbo D will also have nice all around power, with a correctly sized turbo, minimal lag as well. With his reasonable HP goal he also will have decent driveability.
I have plenty of knowledge on both routes, but my opinion would be to rebuild and turbo the D
.
but theres is torque multiplication
LS motors on short trannys are way fun.
EvoTec said:werdLightWeightChamp said:yep! but he says he dosnt mind spending cash, and there is only so much you can do with a d, and with k series coming up fast b series is getting cheaper by the day!
not true it depends on the tune, and with a bolt on b there is still no torqueit depends, a stock type r with bolt ons and a tune will make power exactly where you want it. but turboing a d you will more then likely make more then 200, which isnt a bad thing