dude, go see john vega. he's in st pete
http://www.phearable.net/
http://www.phearable.net/
1996 Integra Build (B18B1)
- Thread starter Xanatos
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New bumper is on, 150 miles on the breakin. Got my oil pressure sensor spliced back into the harness and the motor is running even better. Had her at 8k rpms tonight.
I'm parting out my parts car I bought for 150$ and I already sold the factory radio and one of the relays under the dash for 50$. Might have the auto transmission sold, and that's without touching the interior. In the words of my friend "everything off an Integra is worth something". So I'm going to start a little JDM salvage thing with the money I make off the parts car, and just keep reinvesting for side cash.
My dad parked his truck next to the Teg so it made for a funny picture, he's got a lifted '01 F250.
I'm parting out my parts car I bought for 150$ and I already sold the factory radio and one of the relays under the dash for 50$. Might have the auto transmission sold, and that's without touching the interior. In the words of my friend "everything off an Integra is worth something". So I'm going to start a little JDM salvage thing with the money I make off the parts car, and just keep reinvesting for side cash.
My dad parked his truck next to the Teg so it made for a funny picture, he's got a lifted '01 F250.
Yeah my dad is kind of oldschool. His advice was literally "just beat on it, that's how your grandfather and I always did it" and I've been beating the crap out of it since the early miles. I think it really speaks to the work done by the machine shop. With the ported and polished head it's weirdly fast for an N/A b18b1 I think because the flow is much improved. Torque steer is nuts but I kinda like it. I'm embracing the Honda life. Drove my brother in it for the first time and he said I shifted it really well which felt good, he's the one that used to streetrace a SRT-4 and then an Evo 9 so it meant a lot coming from him.
This is the downside of Hondas. You feel "quick" and you have a blast driving them. But then you take them to the track and run a 15.4 and don't know what happened. You're always left chasing the dragon. lol
Let us consider the H22. The stock 93 USDM Prelude VTEC ran a 14.6 quarter mile when new. Really though, gearing can make up for lack of power; when people swap a B18C into their Civic or Integra with an LS trans, they leave a lot on the table. Regardless, everyone knows Hondas are about having CHEAP fun, and when you remember that, you're fine 
Let us consider the H22. The stock 93 USDM Prelude VTEC ran a 14.6 quarter mile when new. Really though, gearing can make up for lack of power; when people swap a B18C into their Civic or Integra with an LS trans, they leave a lot on the table. Regardless, everyone knows Hondas are about having CHEAP fun, and when you remember that, you're fine
Yep, Hondas are made for drivability. Here's an extensive HT thread talking about integra 1/4 mile times. http://honda-tech.com/acura-integra-6/post-ur-fastest-1-4-time-ur-ls-lsvtec-3rd-gen-tegs-720621/
Yeah it's not gonna be fast till it's boosted and I get that. I'm hoping for around 400whp. Just gotta start saving money. I'd like to get a 1/4 time N/A just to see what it can do
My tentative plan is to use an Ebay kit for intercooler, piping, etc and just add a much larger brand name turbo maybe a Garret, thoughts?
My tentative plan is to use an Ebay kit for intercooler, piping, etc and just add a much larger brand name turbo maybe a Garret, thoughts?
IMHO, if you are shooting for 400hp, I would just take my time building it. I would rather buy a good intercooler that is used than a cheap ebay. But that's just me.
True. I could probably find a used setup on Tampa Racing
You could probably find a complete kit. I would just take the turbo into a shop to have them check it out to make sure it's in mint condition. If you only had a goal of 250 hp, I would piece together a cheaper kit. But with a bigger goal, I'd want it to be strong and reliable.
Was talking to a guy who put a deposit on about 300$ worth of parts (ECU, Dizzy, Door Panels) and he mentioned he had a Type R head, Blox intake manifold, and valve cover complete at his shop. So I'm going to see if I can barter for it, possibly putting cash on top. I have Type R internals sitting in a box underneath my tool cart and a spare b18b1 and a b20b1... So I might end up building a Type R motor or selling the cylinder head for around 500$, and I already have a friend who needs a valvecover. I love Hondas lol.
Still though I'm watching craigslist patiently for a 89-93 celica gt-s 5 speed. I will own one.
Still though I'm watching craigslist patiently for a 89-93 celica gt-s 5 speed. I will own one.
Trust me when I say that cutting corners simply isn't worth it. I built a setup nearly identical to what you're looking to do. Take the time and do it right the first time.
Also, put money into traction parts. Even if it means fewer go fast goodies, it'll be far more useful if you can put it to the pavement. Even at 320whp, my Civic was spinning through the first two gears. When I bumped it up, it became even worse. This was with a limited slip and decent tires.
To sum it up, I know you're building a Honda which is meant to be cheap, but don't just slap it together. If well executed, it can be reliable, fast, and relatively inexpensive. If you have any questions about piecing together a kit, shoot me a PM. I'd be happy to offer advice based on my experiences with this stuff.
Also, put money into traction parts. Even if it means fewer go fast goodies, it'll be far more useful if you can put it to the pavement. Even at 320whp, my Civic was spinning through the first two gears. When I bumped it up, it became even worse. This was with a limited slip and decent tires.
To sum it up, I know you're building a Honda which is meant to be cheap, but don't just slap it together. If well executed, it can be reliable, fast, and relatively inexpensive. If you have any questions about piecing together a kit, shoot me a PM. I'd be happy to offer advice based on my experiences with this stuff.
Oh believe me I've looked through @Matts96HB's build thread many times.
Pretty much. I'd like to find one with a better body, preferably white but yeah thats the body style, I just want a 92 or 93 because of the "facelift" they did on the 2 later years. I'd go N/A just to have fun with it, make it the weekend car and make the Teg the track car.
I picked up the ITR head today for the ECU, Dizzy, Door panels, and corner lights off my parts car. Guy was nice enough to give me the VTEC cylenoid and valve cover with it. I bought a wrecked 2001 CRV with a b20b in it off my dad for 300$ that we had towed in so this will make more parts, interior is mint.
And my custom knob with an Absol on it.
Also I noticed that around 60mph on Us-19, our main thoroughfare, i'm steady around 3k rpms in 5th gear which is crazy high compared to what the LS should be according to what I read.
When i dropped the block and tranny after I bought it I noticed the transmission was painted gold some time ago, whereas the block had no paint on it so they were seperated at one point in time. It had bolt-ons and a tune done before the owner before me, so I'm half wondering if I had a GSR tranny all along and didn't know it, but I haven't found any really good way to tell besides opening up the casing which I'd prefer to avoid doing. I asked the prior owner and he said he had no idea but it had always pulled a little harder than the average LS when he owned it (before the rebuild, stock block and head). Besides all that the tranny does feel really good. no grinds, etc. Sometimes have to push kinda hard to pop it in first but other than that no issues. The chassis has 191k on it so I really doubt an LS tranny with 191k miles would be this buttery. I could be wrong though.
Is there any good reliable way to tell between the two without counting gear teeth or whatever?
When i dropped the block and tranny after I bought it I noticed the transmission was painted gold some time ago, whereas the block had no paint on it so they were seperated at one point in time. It had bolt-ons and a tune done before the owner before me, so I'm half wondering if I had a GSR tranny all along and didn't know it, but I haven't found any really good way to tell besides opening up the casing which I'd prefer to avoid doing. I asked the prior owner and he said he had no idea but it had always pulled a little harder than the average LS when he owned it (before the rebuild, stock block and head). Besides all that the tranny does feel really good. no grinds, etc. Sometimes have to push kinda hard to pop it in first but other than that no issues. The chassis has 191k on it so I really doubt an LS tranny with 191k miles would be this buttery. I could be wrong though.
Is there any good reliable way to tell between the two without counting gear teeth or whatever?
I had looked through that and it seems without the VIN tag Honda used the same casing on both trannies. I wasn't sure if there was some weird but reliable method someone had to circumvent the process.
