1996 Integra Build (B18B1)

[Xanatos]

So if I'm understanding correctly this guy is pretty much what I want @Briansol

http://m.ebay.com/itm/BRIAN-CROWER-...-B20B-ENGINE-PACKAGE-/231815174921?nav=SEARCH

 

[Briansol]

naw, those are the 402s. you want the 404s

 

[Xanatos]

http://www.crower.com/acura-1-8-rs-ls-dohc-camshaft-price-per-pair-12388.html

Alright so this set is the one but it says compression of 10.25 to use them and that i would need the right ring and pinion gear set and tire diameter... I'm a little confused. Whats going to be the downside of being under compression? And what does ring and pinion gear set mean?

 

[Briansol]

that's if you're all motor.

turbo puts your effective compression pretty dang high.
i wouldn't worry about any of the other stuff.
if you're scared, go 403's.

this isn't a daily, so i say go 404s
get the crower inner/outer springs and ITR valve spring retainers, and do the gsr/itr oil pump, some 750cc injectors, throw a nice quick spool turbo on there like a 5252 in .63, 3" breath, tune it, and you'll decimate all at race wars

or, youll do a 4 gear burn out cuz you didn't get a limited slip lol

 

[Xanatos]

Fear not, soon as I blow up my LS tranny I'm hunting down a factory LSD tranny, preferably JDM Type R. My brother told me build the motor and replace the tranny when it breaks, rather than preactively

@Briansol Also why not use the Crower retainers from the set? Just curious. I'm liking your though process on this build haha.

Also annhilated a D15 nonvtec Hatch. I mean I should but it still felt good, he started pulling first and I blew past him and the guy was cool. His hatch was super clean. So far the Honda kids in my area are pretty nice guys it seems.

 

[CAFROG]

The LS trans is a nice trans for turbo. Longer gears. The shorter gears in a GSR or a Type R trans would be optimal for all motor but for forced induction, once the turbo spools up, this longer gears are nice. But, at your hp goals, it wouldn't be as big of a factor. In my opinion, 600+whp...the longer gears are needed.

 

[Briansol]

shorter gear = quicker acceleration. boosted, all motor, or otherwise.
if i had a choice, i'd go for a gsr with a quaife lsd for a street car. It's a good blend of a slightly longer gear but not too long. 'goldielocks'. b16/itr for a track car. ls for commuting the factory lsd isn't that good and paying the $$$ for a jdm itr, you can do am open usdm gsr with the Q and have a better diff instead which will have more cost benefit.

you probably won't 'break' the ls tranny. you might grenade a clutch or grind some synchros, but an actual tranny going... is very rare unless you're on slicks with super axels and clutch and hitting it at 7000rpm.

you can use the crower stuff if you want. it's good too. but it's more expensive and the itr retainers are enough IMO

 

[CAFROG]

I agree about shorter gears having faster acceleration but that's the main reason I'd prefer longer gears with a solid turbo set up. My current trans is short geared and I'm constantly shifting. If it was turbo, I'd run a 5-speed EP3 (aftermarket LSD) trans with a 4.0FD.

 

[Xanatos]

Back to the track and with the timing fixed I ran a 10.2 which is down 2.3s from my previous best of 12.5. My friend and his RSX also ran a 9.6 so we had a good little showing for our small crew. I felt like 10.2 for a N/A non vtec B18 is pretty solid

 

[Briansol]

1/8th ?

 

[get_nick]

It's a clean little car. You have full coverage insurance, right? RIGHT?

 

[Xanatos]

Yeah I have it insured for more than I have invested in it and I'm not paying extra and it's full coverage. We good
@Briansol Yeah 1/8th mile

 

[Briansol]

with the turbo set up you should be well into the 7s

 

[Xanatos]

Possibly buying a 2000 EX Coupe for 250$ with full skunk 2 suspension, coils, camber kit, etc and LS Meshs. Possible parts for my car and then resale potential for the rest. I'm excited, with every "flip" the budget gets a little higher. And I'm so in love with my DC4 I don't really want to build anything else for the moment. I had a lot of other import guys come up and compliment me on the car.

The next steps:
Stage 4 Cams/Springs/Retainers (and valves? Y/N)
Adjustable Cam Gears
Finish building Rear Suspension (brakes, bushings, adjustable LCAs, etc)
Front Strut Bar
Nice Racing Seats + Harness (brand recommendations?)
GSR Trans with LS 5th and LSD
Fresh coat of paint
Tuck shave repaint engine bay, ABS delete
Quick spooling turbo
Small nitrous setup for kicks and giggles while it's N/A
And also while it's N/A I'm gonna take the CAI I have from the 97 donor car, paint it, put a nice filter on it and install it on mine. Since I don't drive it much I figure I can pick and choose when I drive to avoid puddles and potential hydrolock.

I know it's gonna be a lot of $$$$ but I can slowly build on it as I go and obviously some of those things are gonna be more necessary than others. I'm gonna drop the motor before I boost it to clean up the bay again and make it look really nice.

 

[get_nick]

where are you finding these cars at crackhead prices? lol

 

[whiterabbit06]

In the crackhead part of tampa, lol.

 

[Briansol]

Possibly buying a 2000 EX Coupe for 250$ with full skunk 2 suspension, coils, camber kit, etc and LS Meshs. Possible parts for my car and then resale potential for the rest. I'm excited, with every "flip" the budget gets a little higher. And I'm so in love with my DC4 I don't really want to build anything else for the moment. I had a lot of other import guys come up and compliment me on the car.

sounds stolen lol
the mesh'es are worth 250 alone.

Stage 4 Cams/Springs/Retainers (and valves? Y/N)

probably don't need to bother with the valve job

Finish building Rear Suspension (brakes, bushings, adjustable LCAs, etc)

probably wouldn't bother with adjustable LCAs

Nice Racing Seats + Harness (brand recommendations?)

don't do it. racing seats + cage or sotck seats and stock belts without.
if you are in a racing seat and harness in a rollover with out a cage, your head and neck become the rollbar. aka, you're dead, because the seat won't collapse.

ABS delete

nah

Small nitrous setup for kicks and giggles while it's N/A

don't bother wasting your money on temp fixes. put it towards the real goal

And also while it's N/A I'm gonna take the CAI I have from the 97 donor car, paint it, put a nice filter on it and install it on mine. Since I don't drive it much I figure I can pick and choose when I drive to avoid puddles and potential hydrolock.

hydorock is hard to do, especially in a car that isn't your daily driver. stay out of big puddles and you're fine. if you have no choice, build up speed, clutch in, key off but don't lock the wheel, coast through it, turn it on a few seconds after existing the puddle.

 

[Xanatos]

The civic doesnt have a motor the guy took the b20 swap for his EG and wants to dump the shell. It's over in Plant City. Abs delete would be mostly to clean up the bay and besides that mine doesnt work rn and I can't say I've missed it. I had a guy in front of me slam on his brake and besides some smoke Teggy stopped almost immediately. But yeah Honda world is sketchy and full of idiots. So i mostly play for the chance of idiots. Like the 97 teg was some crackhead in a trailer park that didnt wanna fix it

 

[Xanatos]

This is definitely the cars good side. It's rough but the suspension is there, camber kit and coils and all that. It's B series ready but I don't think i wanna go through the hassle of dropping a motor in there. Fun fact it was female built/driven.

 

[Xanatos]

Also last weekend I sanded down the CAI arm, cleaned the inside out with lacquer thinner, and painted it black. Got a Spectre mushroom filter and cleaned up the gasket. Overall I was really proud of myself for how I cleaned/fixed all of that up. I'm gonna have to weld an addition to that one bracket for mounting purposes but overall I'm noticing a substantial increase in my higher rpm powerband, I love it. And it looks good in the bay