CAFROG's K20-R EGg

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

I promise I am fixing the leak. I just wanted to run it and bleed the coolant.....make sure it idles right....and such. But I know I need to wait. The car "should" be on my dad's mini lift and exhaust going in now....and ripping down a country road tonight!

In terms of CEL......with OBD2.....I believe I need to "clear" the code. I guess I could try to clear it and see if it comes back. But I need to fix the fuel rail situation. If you look at one of my engine pictures, you can see the little allen head plug on the fuel rail. It seeps out slowly but stops with the key off.
 
I've dealt with engine bay fires from fuel leaks and it ain't fun. Cleanup involved full dissasemble on engine harness, change a couple of fried connectors, re-wrap the whole thing with tubine and re-tape. Also, replaced all coolant and vacum lines.

Burned the front mud flaps too and boot where the shift linkage connects to the tranny.

No fun. Not mess wit ya here bro. Genuine good advice. :cool:

I have 2 fire extinguishers in my kitchen - one at each end. And two in my shop - a 10 pound by the door into house and a 20 lb (commercial rated for small auto service shop) near door to outside. Money well spent.
 
Last edited:
Got a new Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail on the way. Should be here tomorrow....put it in this weekend. Mine must have been defective :shrug2: but HR is very helpful :thumbsup:.....sent me a new one out for free plus postage to send my bad one back to them.
 
Well the new fuel rail leaked too.....mudda bish.

But I put some thread sealant on and letting it cure now. If it don't work....I have fuel safe yellow teflon tape. If that don't work......well.....I won't be a happy camper.

O2 is wired correctly so I am going to check for continuity tomorrow (once thread seal cures more) and if all the wiring is getting signals then its a new O2....I guess.
 
You're getting close. :thumbsup:

I'm curious about the fuel rail issue. Other guys are prolly too. Send us some pics, if for nothing else the entertainment value.
 
Well......hopefully the sealant will do its job and pics wont be necessary :wink:
 
Well......hopefully the sealant will do its job and pics wont be necessary :wink:
Pics aren't necessary - I'm just curious on what you have been battling and would like to see.

I hope you have found the cure. ;) Still would likey to see pics.
 
Last edited:
Here's a few pics.

100_1723.jpg


The allen head bolt can be seen here. You can see some of the thread sealant too.

100_1719.jpg
 
What's the purpose of the allen? To plug an unused port that could hold a pressure gauge?

That thing looks really nice - it outta scream. How much HP in that engine?
 
Yes its a port for fuel pressure gauge but mine is on the FPR so I just plug it. Both port and allen head plug are conical shaped

Motor is stock 220hp at the crank but I would guess I'm around 240 at the crank with the bolt-ons and RBC IM (so I am guessing damn close to 200whp)

6-spd LSD 4.7FD transmission

I should be in and around 225whp once I get K-pro and a tune (Spring hopefully) then close in on 250whp with some camshafts/springs/chain tensioner/70mm TB/RDX injectors. Should be at least 240's

But its all pipe dreams until I get the thing on the road.
 
Last edited:
Fuel Leak Fixed :thumbsup:

Have 12v power to the two BLACK wires on the secondary O2. Don't know how I should check the white or gray one.

Code was cleared and it came right back. May need an new O2
 
Last edited:
Sadly, I do not see tire smoke anytime soon. I feel a little like eeyore "Oh bother"

Well.....I have tried to bleed it with a Lisle Coolant Funnel. It worked well and lots of bubbles came out but the idle eventually hunted. I noticed that "someone" put the cabin temp switch all the way to the left (cold side) but it should have been to the right side (hot) so the heater lines flow water there too. I could've sworn I did make sure it was on the hot side but :shrug2: the tooth fairy is messing with me again. I'll try it all again later with the heater lines open.

I had to go to a car show and a funeral this weekend so that's all I could get done on it

The CEL (MIL....whateva) was flashing last weekend but went back to solid when I tried to bleed the coolant yesterday. But it started flashing again after I rev'd it up (not sure if the reving it was related :shrug2:). It flashes CONSTANT and I know its not trying to tell me a code. Its around 1/2 second intervals.

I tried to rev it up (open exhaust) but it sounded like it hit a rev limiter at 6k......??? Seems kinda limp mode-ish....yes that's my description lol.

Going to by another relay (that came with the HR Conversion Hanress) b/c the owner of HR said it was the problem for secondary O2 in a past customer. Its a cheap part so I'll try it.

Not sure if the secondary O2 is the right one......"Oh Bother"
This PRC-J01 is a newer ECU so I wonder if it needs a 05-06 RSX Type S (K20Z1) O2
I believe it has a 02-04 Type S (K20A2) on it now.
Steve at HMO said he was willing to find me one and switch it out ($5 flat rate paid by me to send it back)

But, no matter what, I plan on getting the car on the lift and getting the exhaust done in the next few weeks (my weekends have been too full lately). I also plan on trying the new relay. If that ain't it, I will go on to a O2 switch out. If that ain't it......EFF it all......I'm saving for K-Pro but it most likely won't happen until February.

And, when I bleed the coolant next time, if the heat lines open isn't the solution.....I will take the IACV out and cross my fingers that its dirty. But, (once again), K-pro will make things much better here. It might have something to do with the RBC intake manifold I put on it....or the spacer to attach the K20R TB to the IM or the vacuum idle assist I took off to place an adapter and my temp sensor in its place :shrug2:

EDIT: Yeah, K-PRO!!! I knew it and cut a corner to get the Type R swap instead of a K20A2 swap
 
Last edited:
k pro that is all

Been gone for a while good to see that you fixed all the odds and ends. Now we need to fix the tuning issue. Instead of buying oem parts why don't you just use some throttle in a bottle and stop playing games. You wanna go fast? Use some sort of FI. Just buy some springs and retainers to keep the revs.
 
Back
Top