CAFROG's K20-R EGg
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Plenty of advice out there from those that don't even read the friggin thread.
I won't hurt a thing to try a light. My thinking is the pulse is such a short duration that the lamp filament won't have time to heat up and glow. That's why I suggested using an LED setup.
Did you mention using starter fluid and it momentarily fires up? I'm wondering if it has spark? Don't want to go back through the thread to find out.
I won't hurt a thing to try a light. My thinking is the pulse is such a short duration that the lamp filament won't have time to heat up and glow. That's why I suggested using an LED setup.
Did you mention using starter fluid and it momentarily fires up? I'm wondering if it has spark? Don't want to go back through the thread to find out.
The dumb phuk.
Zen Chameleon
New Member
He is a spam bot, please report him as I have. You can see his last post in my thread doing the same crap. Pretty smart I think, as long as we thought he's just an idiot he could have got away with it for along time lol.
Okay..........maybe a big update
I called Steve at HMO and he asked me if I had a PRC ECU that ends in J01.....
He said the J01's are the newer ones and need a bypass unit like USDM PRB ECU's.
I had my dad look...... J01. Mudder bish. Need to be a little more sure still but I figure I will need to buy me an Immobilizer Bypass.
I have a friend n K20A.org that has a PRC that is running and doesn't need a bypass unit. I asked him to look at his last 3-Digits.
I called Steve at HMO and he asked me if I had a PRC ECU that ends in J01.....
He said the J01's are the newer ones and need a bypass unit like USDM PRB ECU's.
I had my dad look...... J01. Mudder bish. Need to be a little more sure still but I figure I will need to buy me an Immobilizer Bypass.
I have a friend n K20A.org that has a PRC that is running and doesn't need a bypass unit. I asked him to look at his last 3-Digits.
It sparks so it's getting at least some of the reference signals. Not sure on your model what the schematic looks like. Have you tried the fuse?
Confirm the +12v to the injectors, the common hot remains hot when you crank it over and doesn't dump to 0 or some low voltage.
Look over the sensor circuit from crank, cam, dizzy wherever it all comes from. It's possible it could be getting ignition signals and not injector reference signal. The ECU on my hatch (OBD1) gets a "Set" or "Reset" signal from the start circuit. Then it looks for the TDC signal and references from there to fire plugs and injectors.
I don't have a schematic for your setup or I would look it over.
The dam thing is probably very similar in function to the P06 in my hatch.
Ring out the lines from engine position sensors to the ECU to ensure good continuity if you haven't already done that.
Sprinkle some Holy Water on the little ba$tard.
If I was in the neighborhood I'd swing on by and get down in the trenches with you over a couple of beers and a few Havana's. It took me a week on my hatch to debug it when I did the swap. Looking back, that was time well spent. Frustrating at times. But, now I know how that little MF works. I mean wire for wire how it works - no brag here. You will know yours real good when you're done with it. The knowledge may come in handy down the road.
Any fault codes? Are the injectors the same?
Confirm the +12v to the injectors, the common hot remains hot when you crank it over and doesn't dump to 0 or some low voltage.
Look over the sensor circuit from crank, cam, dizzy wherever it all comes from. It's possible it could be getting ignition signals and not injector reference signal. The ECU on my hatch (OBD1) gets a "Set" or "Reset" signal from the start circuit. Then it looks for the TDC signal and references from there to fire plugs and injectors.
I don't have a schematic for your setup or I would look it over.
The dam thing is probably very similar in function to the P06 in my hatch.
Ring out the lines from engine position sensors to the ECU to ensure good continuity if you haven't already done that.
Sprinkle some Holy Water on the little ba$tard.
If I was in the neighborhood I'd swing on by and get down in the trenches with you over a couple of beers and a few Havana's. It took me a week on my hatch to debug it when I did the swap. Looking back, that was time well spent. Frustrating at times. But, now I know how that little MF works. I mean wire for wire how it works - no brag here. You will know yours real good when you're done with it. The knowledge may come in handy down the road.
Any fault codes? Are the injectors the same?
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Whole swap is the same K20A-R stuff......injectros and all. Only thing I did was replace the Intake Manifold for a 06-10 Civic Si.
I think its the fact my ECU ends in J01......found another thread and it wouldn't start either.
(you may replace "think" with "hope".....if you like lol)
Plus Steve at HMO told me this today and he sells a whole lotta swaps.
Anyone got a PRC-O13 ECU I could try??? lol
I think its the fact my ECU ends in J01......found another thread and it wouldn't start either.
(you may replace "think" with "hope".....if you like lol)
Plus Steve at HMO told me this today and he sells a whole lotta swaps.
Anyone got a PRC-O13 ECU I could try??? lol
After talking to Hondata......I called Hybrid. Tim said that if it can be K-Pro'd then the immobilizer bypass should work. I bought one and if its not the remedy.....then he said I can return it and we'll go from there. Should have it here Friday and install it Saturday. Fingers Crossed.
Shennanigans?
Maybe Ethan gets my Signature?.............MEOW
