CAFROG's K20-R EGg

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Nice. What welding process are you using? I'm guessing fluxed wire MIG? I need to do smie exhaust welding on mine and am going to purchase a MIG machine soon. I read somewhere it takes a certain gas mix for stainless steel and am wondering if I get a bottle of gas that works well on stainless if it will also do ok on ferrous metals?
 
I used a Miller 110v Mig Welder with argon gas. I am not knowledgeable when it comes to temp and speed of wire. All my enjoyable welding experience comes off my cousin's welder and he always set it up for me. He also had a battery operated welding helmet which allowed you to see the material but it would switch to dark when the welding starts. Big picture.....I need to learn more. Anyways, I kept it lowest heat setting and around 22 for the speed. I finally got a better feel for it today when I welded the resonator onto my transition.

Yesterday, simply welding the 3" piece to the 3" end of the transition took me some time. I ground a 45 degree edge on both pieces and went to town on the welding. I was going "on-off, on-off, on-off" but my dad thought I was smoking crack. He took his turn and he was burning holes! So I took over and put the temp much lower and sped it up. I kept laying down welds and then ground it down. Sadly.....I had 4-5 pin holes that I had to go back and weld then grind. Today went easier.
 
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It takes a while to get the hang of it. Don't think you are using Acetylene gas in that thing. Probably Argon, but usually it's some kind of a blend for SS.

Thanks.
 
Duh.....brain fart......I meant Argon. Acetylene Torch is something entirely different. Sorry.
 
I used regular argon. The piping is aluminized mild steel and the resonator was stainless. The welds got penetration. But it was a slip fitting so I was sealing more than anything. I cant contest to a scenario that needed structural integrity.
 
The lift is a luxury of having a dad who likes to work on hot rods. It wasn't too expensive either. Great for a variety of stuff. You can jack up the car when needed too.

My dad has been a little distracted with a variety of home renovations but he should get his pick-up done to his liking by next spring. I been giving him crap every once in a while. Hell.......he's retired and lives quitet the life while my mom works her butt off!
 
Nice build, very clean and done right. I hate seeing half a$$ed swaps and messy engine bays. That K series immobilizer crap is a pain to deal with, glad you go it running. Should be a beast big upgrade from the B16. 250whp with a K Pro should be no problem with the bolts ons you have done. Now I need to read over your B16 swap build.
 
So I finally had a little break through with a hunting idle issue. :thumbsup:

Last weekend, I cleaned the IACV (even though it didn't look that dirty) and got the same crappy results.

Will at Hybrid asked me if it spun freely. I didn't remember seeing anything that spun. I saw some baffles and thats it.
I was stumped on what was suppose to spin (my OBD1 knowledge is worthless here).

Luckily, Google helped me out and I got a mini-lesson on how to take the electrical portion of the IACV off the mechanical portion.

Once I used a dremel to make some flat head grooves and got the 5-pointed screws off (5-point.....WTF) it came off,.

I saw some rusty grim and found that it didn't spin freely.

It is currently soaking and is now spinning! Let it sit another hour or so....then dry and we'll see.
 
Obstacles conquered thus far:

Got car to start with immobilizer bypass unit

Fixed fuel leak at fuel rail (after 2 fuel rails and some thread sealant)

Cleaned IACV thoroughly (soaked over night) and idles like a champ at 750-800rpms!!!

Still need to figure out why O2 sesnors are both popping codes.

In any event......Bitches, Come!!
 
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Sounds healthy. The IACV is different on that engine than OBD1 stuff? I'm having a fast idle issue with mine.
 
I had hunting issues periodically with my OBD1 B16A. I cleaned the IACV. Looked at the Helm's diagnostic on FITV troubles and sourced it to the hole inside the TB telling me the FITV was still trying to work after the car had reached running temp (b/c I had suction). I flirted with the thought of cleaning the FITV but opted for a BNIB OEM FITV. I still had light suction (less but still suction). I finally got it better once I re-set the idle (via Helm's instructions) and reset the ECU. But mine would do it after I drove it in which it was really nice and hot......never from a cold start that leads to running temp (fan comes on).

This K20 IACV has a big black electrical unit screwed into the actual aluminum case for the IACV. Once I got the 5 pointed screws off, I was able to remove the black plastic electrical and expose this magnetic cylinder that connects to a rod that leads into the chambers for coolant (bearing between the two sides). There was rusty grim and that cylinder wouldn't budge. Started to after it soaked for 15 minutes and was a lot nicer in 2 hours. I let it sit over night and got back after it this morning.

Inside the coolant side of the IACV is a "C" shaped lager cylinder that spins as it churns up coolant (at least thats how it seemed). I am not sure but it seems like the coolant turns the cylinder and transfers information (electronically) to the ECU........or the magnet side for electrical is spun buy the ECU?? Like a motor........but I say my first guess is right.
 
B16RacerN2NR said:
I wish I had the time to go K in my DB8 :(
Click to expand...

I don't have the time either I work 45+hrs a week and the car sits with my Dad....it gets worked on 2-3 times a month. Sadly, it was "suppose to" be running on the streets in August.

98EkSi said:
Nice, sounds good. Get that O2 problem worked out and you will be good.
Click to expand...

I hope a 02-04 RSX-S PRB ECU will be a temporary fix for the O2's. I don't think K-Pro is much of an option from now until Feb-Mar b/c of XMAS, probably moving, and 6 month insurance payment on 2-cars coming soon. But I got $395 towards K-Pro right now :shrug2:

Donations :rimshot: shall be accepted with gratitude and humbleness.....via paypal..............................word
 
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CAFROG said:
I don't have the time either I work 45+hrs a week and the car sits with my Dad....it gets worked on 2-3 times a month. Sadly, it was "suppose to" be running on the streets in August.
Click to expand...

Not trying to one up you, but I work 50-55 hours a week, I do Muay Thai training 4 times a week (two hours each session), gotta be involved with my son's activities (basketball, soccer, BJJ) and still gotta spend time with my two younger ones.

At this moment in time, I REALLY have zero time to do anything until I finally get rid of enough debt so I can go back to working 40 hours a week lol.

In the mean time, my GSR will get a few things to keep me happy for a bit :)

You're car is gonna be a blast to drive once you're completely done though :D Go show those kids at your school that the other teachers "muscle cars" are... GAY... lol
 
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