D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?
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93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
It runs fine, just the only problems are the IAT and IACV codes showing up and the vtec except I haven't wired that up. And the erratic idle and now that I got my EX cluster I saw that it seems to jump from about 1200 rpms to 1400 rpms back n forth my estimates were right on! But I'm about to go outside and steal one of the A/C ground lines and put it on there since I took out the a/c. I hope this puts an end to the idle problems.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Alright that sucked it made no difference whatsoever. But I have some questions... I'll post some pics.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Questions are at the very bottom but first, pics.
Alright first up... This is a pic of the ground wire I put on. It made no difference at all. And I would like to know what that other little thing is that I circled.
This next pic is of a piece I found after the swap:
I don't even remember where that came off or why it was cut. I don't even know if it came from my firewall or from the old motor or what I don't know what it is or where it goes and how it could affect performance.
Soo...About the ground wire. It's bolted to the tranny bracket which is meant for a ground, and bolted to the painted body. Is the wire the wrong size or something? Is there any reason it didn't affect anything?
And that little thing with the openning next to the ground I put on...what could that be for?
And the piece I found with the 2-pin connector and vacuum port? Anyone know anything about any of these questions?
Alright first up... This is a pic of the ground wire I put on. It made no difference at all. And I would like to know what that other little thing is that I circled.
This next pic is of a piece I found after the swap:
I don't even remember where that came off or why it was cut. I don't even know if it came from my firewall or from the old motor or what I don't know what it is or where it goes and how it could affect performance.
Soo...About the ground wire. It's bolted to the tranny bracket which is meant for a ground, and bolted to the painted body. Is the wire the wrong size or something? Is there any reason it didn't affect anything?
And that little thing with the openning next to the ground I put on...what could that be for?
And the piece I found with the 2-pin connector and vacuum port? Anyone know anything about any of these questions?
The half circle thing looks like a beather of some sort on the trans. (I am lookign at the trans right?). If its some thing off the trans, then don't worry about it.
That other thing looks like it could be the firewall mounted map sensor that is stock on dx cars.
That other thing looks like it could be the firewall mounted map sensor that is stock on dx cars.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Yea it's on the trans, thanks for clearing that up.
And the other thing I believe came off the firewall now that you mention it and it IS a 2-pin connector similar to the MAP and TPS sensors. I'm not throwing a code for either of them. I think what I did was take that sensor off and and tee-bracket the vacuum lines since I think I used the new IM with the old TB because the new TB was missing a vacuum port and some shit I couldn't get the MAP to read right I was having vacuum problems with it so I used the new IM with the old TB and T-bracketed the vacuum lines and I think I did take off the old MAP sensor.
I still have absolutely no idea why it would be fluctuating on idle I mean it's no problem to drive it like that but it's not right either and I AM throwing the codes. I still haven't checked the timing yet but how could the timing just be off enough to mess with 1200-1400 rpms then be ok after that? I mean the more gas I give it it just pounds harder I can post a video with audio so you can watch the tach and hear what I'm talking about incase you're not sure what I mean. The IAT and IACV are both fine...I haven't checked the coolant or oil leaks yet.
And it's 25* out it took some time to start, and it sounded worse too. And for some reason the oil light always comes on when I turn the key on, along with the battery light, but goes away after I start the car.
Is there something wrong with the ground wire I put on the tranny? Too thin? Why wouldn't it make any difference at all? Does it matter if it's grounded to painted metal surface?
And the other thing I believe came off the firewall now that you mention it and it IS a 2-pin connector similar to the MAP and TPS sensors. I'm not throwing a code for either of them. I think what I did was take that sensor off and and tee-bracket the vacuum lines since I think I used the new IM with the old TB because the new TB was missing a vacuum port and some shit I couldn't get the MAP to read right I was having vacuum problems with it so I used the new IM with the old TB and T-bracketed the vacuum lines and I think I did take off the old MAP sensor.
I still have absolutely no idea why it would be fluctuating on idle I mean it's no problem to drive it like that but it's not right either and I AM throwing the codes. I still haven't checked the timing yet but how could the timing just be off enough to mess with 1200-1400 rpms then be ok after that? I mean the more gas I give it it just pounds harder I can post a video with audio so you can watch the tach and hear what I'm talking about incase you're not sure what I mean. The IAT and IACV are both fine...I haven't checked the coolant or oil leaks yet.
And it's 25* out it took some time to start, and it sounded worse too. And for some reason the oil light always comes on when I turn the key on, along with the battery light, but goes away after I start the car.
Is there something wrong with the ground wire I put on the tranny? Too thin? Why wouldn't it make any difference at all? Does it matter if it's grounded to painted metal surface?
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
I got a friend coming over with a torque wrench so I'll try to check the timing today 
. And take a look at the leaks for myself I most likely need a new oil pan.
. And take a look at the leaks for myself I most likely need a new oil pan.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Going by the manual it says to take off the valve cover and timing belt cover then rotate the crank pully to inspect timing belt and position it to TDC.
So what I did was...take off the valve cover and belt cover, and check those coolant inlets on the head to see if they were cracked like pepbitches told me. Here's what turned up.
The inlets on the head are both fine. But when I took off the valve cover and looked at the inside there's white shit on it. Does this mean coolant is getting into the block? The head gasket is fine. It was 35* outside when I started it and when I revved there was white steam or smoke coming out of the exhaust. I'm not sure if I'm burning coolant or if I'm just tripping cause it's frustrating all these problems and it was cold out anyway. I'll check the timing and then if that's fine, I'll start it up when it's warmer outside and check for smoke but there's white shit on the inside of the valve cover. I can take a pic if that'll help.
So what I did was...take off the valve cover and belt cover, and check those coolant inlets on the head to see if they were cracked like pepbitches told me. Here's what turned up.
The inlets on the head are both fine. But when I took off the valve cover and looked at the inside there's white shit on it. Does this mean coolant is getting into the block? The head gasket is fine. It was 35* outside when I started it and when I revved there was white steam or smoke coming out of the exhaust. I'm not sure if I'm burning coolant or if I'm just tripping cause it's frustrating all these problems and it was cold out anyway. I'll check the timing and then if that's fine, I'll start it up when it's warmer outside and check for smoke but there's white shit on the inside of the valve cover. I can take a pic if that'll help.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Well I just took a quick pic of the underside of the valve cover the white stuff is gone but I put in white circles where it mostly was. It was kind of like birdshit is what it looked like that's the only place I found it nowhere else.
Also what were you talking about rotating the dizzy or something for timing?
Also what were you talking about rotating the dizzy or something for timing?
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93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
I'll definitely try the dizzy next time around I'll just bolt the head and belt covers back on and fill up with coolant, rotate dizzy, and see where I get with that. That's what I hear about all motors regardless where you get them is that something's usually wrong with the dizzy. But I'll do that in a few days it's supposed to stay around 35* (that's the high) for a few days here.
And when I meant white smoke/vapor coming from the exhaust I meant out to like 8 feet behind the car. I saw another car drive by and nothing came from the exhaust. I just hope I'm not burning coolant.
And when I meant white smoke/vapor coming from the exhaust I meant out to like 8 feet behind the car. I saw another car drive by and nothing came from the exhaust. I just hope I'm not burning coolant.
Don't just rotate the distributor. You need a timing light and have the car idle around 700 rpm's to set the timing correctly. If you have a blown head gasket, then you will have oil in your coolant and/or coolant in the oil. Its easy to see... water doesn't miz with oil.
Did you pull the head when you got it from hmotors? If so, did you re-torque the head studs to spec? and are you using a good head gasket?
Did you pull the head when you got it from hmotors? If so, did you re-torque the head studs to spec? and are you using a good head gasket?
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
I just dropped it right in right after I received it. I pulled the valve cover and that gasket is like new as were every other gasket I saw the only one I had to replace was the IM gasket because I broke it switching manifolds but they were all like new. The motor itself looks new the valve cover looks like it has fresh paint.
But ok then I don't really think it's mixing now that you mention it the the water would sit on top of the oil (or oil on top of water?) either way I get what you mean like I said I'm just tripping over all this I kind of expected to have this swap done by now.
And that's why I borrowed the torque wrench for that and for the crank pulley for when I check the timing belt.
My car idle's around 800-900 rpms.
But how can I be sure of the timing being correct, the specs for each 5th gen d-series are different in the FSM. Or do they all have the same notches?
But ok then I don't really think it's mixing now that you mention it the the water would sit on top of the oil (or oil on top of water?) either way I get what you mean like I said I'm just tripping over all this I kind of expected to have this swap done by now.
And that's why I borrowed the torque wrench for that and for the crank pulley for when I check the timing belt.
My car idle's around 800-900 rpms.
But how can I be sure of the timing being correct, the specs for each 5th gen d-series are different in the FSM. Or do they all have the same notches?
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
The manual says for the d15b7/d16z6 engines:
M/T 16* +/- 2* BTDC (red) at 670 +/- 50 rpm
Does this mean my car's supposed to idle around 670 rpm and I have to turn the crank to BTDC before timing?
And I've never used a timing light it says something like the mark on the pulley lights up with the light to somehow show you the timing?
M/T 16* +/- 2* BTDC (red) at 670 +/- 50 rpm
Does this mean my car's supposed to idle around 670 rpm and I have to turn the crank to BTDC before timing?
And I've never used a timing light it says something like the mark on the pulley lights up with the light to somehow show you the timing?
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yes, that means your car has to idle around there. Follow thoes specs in the FSN. Google how a timing light works. I don't feel like explaining it lol. Basically you run your engine at idle, and light up the crank pulley with the light. I'm not going to go any further. Just google it. Its really easy to figure out.
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
Yea I searched it and it said the mark on the pulley should light up with the pulse of the light. What are you supposed to get from that? LOL how does the pulley mark light up? I haven't found instructions that in-depth is it something you have to actually see to understand?
I mean I would think the pulley is spinning so you wouldn't really see the mark anyway
I mean I would think the pulley is spinning so you wouldn't really see the mark anyway
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